54 replies to this topic

[jpsulisz]

Build thread for my 68 MK2 Mini - 1000

 

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Continuation from https://www.theminif...o/#entry3741725

 

Recently I was doing a valve adjustment and noticed the rockers were loosey goosey - I then ordered the appropriate parts to do rehaul of the front end. I began the work today after much of the parts arrived, my day started as this:

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I've been fortunated enough in my life to never needed to do a head gasket by myself. However, I am thankful the Mini is pretty simple in this regard. In about an hour or two I got the exhaust manifold off, carb, and thermostat off for the head to come off:

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Pleased to have the head gasket still in one piece. The valves have some carbon built up, but they are all together so I am happy for that. I originally was just going to go this far, replace the head gasket and replace the rocker shaft and arms but when in Rome...

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I got the radiator out (somehow, what a PITA) since I wanted to replace the bottom hose, do a water pump, and may as well do a timing chain replacement. I do see some TLC will be needed on the bracket.

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Shoutout to the original radiator still working all this time. The lower drain bolt broke as I undid it, the new one I got from MS doesn't have a drain bolt so I am debating having the local radiator shop put in a drain for it since the idea of needing to undo the lower hose doesn't seem fun.

 

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I forgot to order the timing chain so that's a pity. Will need to wait a week for that. Since it's memorial day weekend it won't be until Tuesday to see if a shop can work on it. Wanted to get the head ready for unleaded, which would be nice so I don't need the lead additive and guides. Though the car ran fine before this. The rust is pretty gnarly in some spots, I have a POR-15 kit coming in that I will try on the hood as well as spots on the firewall. I recently got a MIG 110 welder, it's not ideal but it's the most I can run in my garage until I move - will be practicing on junk metal to see if I can get anything worth of a weld - the previous owner just bondo'ed many spots, leaving me with all the fun.

 

[jpsulisz]

I also exchanged the UK number plate that was still original to the car (I still have it on the front) for a US styled license plate. Where I live they are huge sticklers for having it properly displayed with appropriate lighting whilst driving. The previous owner always just hung the plate in the rear window with suction cups, but for the few trips I made in the car, it kept falling off and blocked my rearview.

It looks a bit funny, but I couldn't find many people who retro fitted a US plate on a MK1/2 flippy plate holder - this works and retains it's functionality. I also mended the plate light, it was corroded and the wires were respliced and crimped.

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[timmy850]

There was a US specific bracket to lower the lamp down under the licence plate

Attached Files

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[bob01b]

They are available from Seven Enterprises in the U.S.

License Plate (U.S.) Lamp Adapter, Mk1/Mk2 (14A8300) | Seven Classic Mini Parts (7ent.com)

[minibitz]

Nice progress.

 

Just a heads up that fan blade is currently fitted back to front and needs flipping over when you reassemble. The blades look a bit curled too, so maybe consider fitting a new one.

[jpsulisz]

They are available from Seven Enterprises in the U.S.

License Plate (U.S.) Lamp Adapter, Mk1/Mk2 (14A8300) | Seven Classic Mini Parts (7ent.com)

 

I feel very dumb lol - I drilled into the license plate itself so I will wait until I need to go to the DMV for renewal or keep it as is. Luckily, I didn't need to modify the existing plate frame to get it to work.

 

Nice progress.

 

Just a heads up that fan blade is currently fitted back to front and needs flipping over when you reassemble. The blades look a bit curled too, so maybe consider fitting a new one.

I just got around to taking it off an noticed that with engine facing the opposite way! I am tempted to buy the metal fan as with the very harsh winters here I've noticed plastic becomes very brittle - I've also read that it does much better at sustained loads like highway driving compared to the plastic one.

Anyhow,

I go an aluminum radiator with a plug at the bottom. I should've originally bought this as it ended up only costing me $20 more from a vendor in the US to get compared to shipping the cheaper one from the UK. However, I went safe and got the smaller water pump as I read issues with earlier blocks making contact with the propeller:
 

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I was debating on running the larger used one, but it is much nosier just by turning it by hand than the new one. So I figured if I have to make an order from MS, then I might as well shell out the extra $20 for the bigger, better, pump that has already fit in the car.

 

I also got around to removing the timing cover, I am unsure how much slop is allowed on these pre-tensioner Mini's but this seems excessive to me. I have an entire kit with washers ready to go for a new simplex kit w/ the heavy duty chain. Currently awaiting the timing cover to finish drying with a new coat of paint over night.



Sorry about the long wait - but my other daily driver had immediate work needed and thankfully I have quit my second job. So every weekend should be a Mini weekend :)

Edited by jpsulisz, 11 June 2023 - 03:10 AM.

[jpsulisz]

Found out why the speedo doesn't work. I tested the speedo itself by cutting the cable and running it with a drill and saw that the gear turns from the speedo mount. Something I noticed, the speedo cable was painted green, so whoever owned this prior did a quick and dirty paint job which explains much of the paint flaking off.

 

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I was just going to do the timing chain, but noticed that the engine mount was pretty crusty. So, when in Rome:
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Got to try out my new ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning the threads and those tight spots - worked well enough!

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My finished result w/ the new timing chain (far less slack!):

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[jpsulisz]

Freshly painted timing cover and new evo water pump. I was thinking, since I ordered the original style, to just throw that in or put in the old evo pump - however this new one is very smooth! I did have to drill a slightly larger hole for the outward studs, otherwise I couldn't fit it in, no biggie though.
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[johnR]

Unusual use of the phrase 'when in Rome' - I would suggest 'in for a penny, in for a pound ' would be more appropriate?

[jpsulisz]

Got back from vacation and pleased to make some progress - aiming to have the head on by the end of next weekend!

New rocker shaft w/ new arms - went with the spacers rather than my springs:
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For reference, it's pretty clear why the rocker arms had such bad play:
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I do have a single valve setup with the early MK1 valve setup - but I intend to keep it as is. I have on order a retaining spring but I really need the car working asap - I am moving by the end of August and want to drive this across town to it's new home. I told myself that I will do an engine rebuild in the next year and just need it to last until then.
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I also tested out some POR-15 we have in the states, apparently does really good for rust spots. I cleaned up right below the wiper motor the best I could and applied it. Came out really nice but stuff is hard to work with - will probably use the stuff for the remainder of the firewall.
 

Engine bay at this point - added a new dynamo (old one had much play and wouldn't charge), new coil, and replaced the top engine steady (what a PITA):

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[jpsulisz]

Decided to sand and paint the air box - found a sticker under the layers of paint:

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Went through with black and a replacement sticker on the way:

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I also needed a new shelf, so instead of the roof I finally put together the roof while some POR-15 was drying in the engine bay:

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While on paint, the original key switch panel looks like it had been painted over with green roller paint - so I re-did it with silver wheel paint I had to match the original. I think it looks pretty good:

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Here is that POR-15, it looks much better in person IMO:

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Went through the rest of the engine - placed the head gasket on, put on the rockers, adjusted the rockers, got the thermostat and heater valve put in along with a new temp sensor and put in the new radiator (easily the hardest thing I've ever done on this car, my arms are beaten and exhausted from this alone):

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Can anyone let me know if the radiator shroud is supposed to be <1 inch away from the dynamo pulley? It isn't touching, but it seems quite close.

[jpsulisz]

So close to attempt starting it up - need to get distilled water in the morning for initial fill up of the radiator and do all my double checks once again. I still have the interior to sort, the choke cable is rather stiff and noticed the nut is already coming loose.

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The exhaust has been fitted with a new fancy clamp that shouldn't rust

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Rear looks a bit better since the previous exhaust was dangling a bit more due to an extension clip that was holding it all together. The entire exhaust is how it should be:
 

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Had an issue with one of my fuel lines not being tight and it leaked fuel for a minute before I realized. Likewise, had the horn and flashers not working, but it ended up that I disconnect the solenoid brown wire, thanks for the wiring diagram to figure that one out.

[sonscar]

Nice work,looks to be a well preserved working car.What are the pipes/cables running under the boot floor?Steve..

[jpsulisz]

Nice work,looks to be a well preserved working car.What are the pipes/cables running under the boot floor?Steve..

I think you're referring to the hydrolastic fillup suspension lines - don't be fooled by the undercoating, the rear subframe will need replacement soon as there are holes beginning to show. Was deciding if I should convert it from hydrolastic as I don't see much in terms of parts availability, wanted to build an entirely new rear subframe this winter and hopefully swap it out before spring of next year.

Edited by jpsulisz, 30 July 2023 - 03:23 PM.

[jpsulisz]

Got around to the mini late in the day - got it running after some messing around with the order of the spark plug wires:

I think it sounds much better than before, I am having a ton of issue keeping it running past 1st gear. I am blaming this on not touching the timing (I know, dumb idea). I am figuring that the timing is off by a few degrees since the old chain had slack which has probably thrown off the timing a few degrees. Currently the car is dying under load and struggles to rev up, I figured a few degrees up will help out (really hoping I didn't get anything in the carb that would be causing this)

I also have a working speedometer now   

3 issues:
- The carb throttle spring is not strong enough, I probably had the L bracket the other way around which creates far more spring tension on the carb and makes it much harder to put on. Debating if I can loosen the bracket enough to flip it without ruining the seal.
- The radiators plastic bottom plug is leaking water when warmed up, not sure if I can replace it with a metal plug and have no idea the thread type

- The radiator to fender strip that keeps the air going to the outside doesn't really fit on the aluminum radiator and is beginning to fall off. May just make a cover that extends over the original radiator box and allows it to route over.

First time it's seen sun in a while!
 

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Edited by jpsulisz, 31 July 2023 - 02:33 AM.