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Awkward Repair To A Restored Mini


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#16 mab01uk

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Posted 30 April 2023 - 10:27 PM

If it's the case, as I believe, that there's no rot on the car at all apart from this bit, it seems to me like it needs to be done properly, or the whole car is "spoiled".  The problem with that is it's going to cost a fortune. Quite the dilemma, especially as the value of my specific car isn't huge, unlike a 1968 Cooper S mentioned above!

 

 

Why not get a 'satisfactory' possibly patch repair done for a reasonable price if the value of your specific car isn't huge and continue to enjoy the car, it certainly won't "spoil" the whole car. Such a repair should be fine for many years and in the unlikely event that it needs doing again in a few years you can do the same minor repair again....or if the value of the car has risen to '1968 Cooper S levels' by that time you may feel it is worth replacing the complete panel at the much higher costs quoted.


Edited by mab01uk, 30 April 2023 - 10:28 PM.


#17 Midas Mk1

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Posted 30 April 2023 - 10:59 PM

I taught myself to weld last year, did full inner outer sills, front floor, flitch, toeboard repairs. Abit of time and patience you can do it on a budget - have faith.

#18 sonscar

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Posted 01 May 2023 - 07:15 AM

Grind a couple of squarish patches out to remove damage,make new metal patches,butt weld,paint.Not much shaping,easy access probably one of easiest rust repairs to invisibly do.No value lost.we may be in danger of thinking that anything less than full heritage replaced panels is a bodge.Just my thoughts,others will differ.Steve..

#19 roblightbody

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Posted 01 May 2023 - 10:20 AM

I taught myself to weld last year, did full inner outer sills, front floor, flitch, toeboard repairs. Abit of time and patience you can do it on a budget - have faith.

 

I'll be right there  :proud:



#20 sonikk4

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Posted 01 May 2023 - 10:54 AM

From what I see there is not the end of the world and very fixable.

It does need things cutting out in sections and replaced as such to deal with any hidden rust. So it will need some 0.9mm sheet steel for the floor section that the toe board sits under and then some 1.2mm steel for the section of toe board that needs to be dealt with.

As long as the car is sitting nice and square the there won’t be any issues with any “ moving”

It’s a shame you are far too North as I could easily deal with that. Not a professional but I have been known to restore a shell or three.

#21 Cooperman

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Posted 05 May 2023 - 09:44 PM

That looks like a very straightforward repair.
The actual corroded area seems quite small.
Get the car jacked up quite high and cut away the corroded part of the front bulkhead. You can then see whether there is bad rust on the forward edge of the floor pan.
If you the floor pan is corroded, buy a pattern front floor and cut out the replacement area you need. Weld it in place.
Using 1.2 mm steel sheet, make up a repair piece to replace the cut out piece of bulkhead.
You can lap-weld the new pieces, but make sure that you do continuous seam welds. Where the new bulkhead piece meets the new floor piece, try to replicate the original flange width and both plug and seam weld.
Once welded, linish back, prime and paint. It will look fine.
I have seen much worse fixed where the entire corner has corroded away.
Good luck with this job.

#22 bpirie1000

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Posted 21 May 2023 - 07:59 PM

How are you getting on with this repair?

#23 roblightbody

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Posted 22 May 2023 - 08:43 AM

How are you getting on with this repair?


Haven't made any progress. Haven't had time to deal with it... Which in turn is making me think it's time to give up on classic car ownership!

#24 Cooperman

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Posted 24 May 2023 - 08:05 PM

In terms of classic car ownership and maintenance, your corrosion is a very straightforward issue. It seems as though some repairers and so-called 'specialists' are talking nonsense to you.

Don't give up, just fix it in a straightforward way.



#25 sonikk4

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Posted 24 May 2023 - 08:07 PM

 

How are you getting on with this repair?


Haven't made any progress. Haven't had time to deal with it... Which in turn is making me think it's time to give up on classic car ownership!

 

 

Dont give up, yes you may feel bambozzled by this but have a look for a local mini owners club and see if they can offer any help guidance etc.



#26 roblightbody

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Posted 29 March 2024 - 05:21 PM

I just wanted to close off my own topic, by saying this repair has now been carried out by a local Mini expert, for a very reasonable price, so I'm back on the road and a happy chappy again!

 

He said the floor itself was fine, it was just the bottom of the bulkhead, where it overlaps with the floor, moisture had got in and rusted it.  He cut off and replaced the bottom bit with new metal, seam welded it all up nicely, and painted and sealed it.

 

Getting a reasonably priced, knowledgeable garage that I can get to fairly easily on public transport makes all the difference in the world to how viable my Classic Mini ownership is, it just took me a while to find the right garage. Turned out it was someone I knew through the Mini club 25 years ago, but I didn't realise was now doing this type of work!



#27 Cooperman

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Posted 29 March 2024 - 10:49 PM

Well done. Now enjoy your Mini.



#28 bpirie1000

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Posted 30 March 2024 - 06:55 AM

Excellent news Rob. Many more happy mini miles left....

#29 Designer

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Posted 30 March 2024 - 07:09 AM

Can you name and PRAISE this gentleman so if anyone else in your neck of the woods needs work done they have a good contact.



#30 roblightbody

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Posted 30 March 2024 - 10:07 AM

Can you name and PRAISE this gentleman so if anyone else in your neck of the woods needs work done they have a good contact.

 

Yes, it was PerformanceTek in Glasgow.

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