8 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

Hi, 

I am currently re wrapping my loom and thought I had sorted where everything needs to go but forgot a couple of wires.

 

The wires in question are a pink/white wire that connects to Terminal 1 and is in the same Spade Connector as two white wires (one of which connects to the Distributor.

 

The other end of the Pink / White wire is connected to the +ve terminal on the ignition coil.

 

Taped to the Pink / White wire (about 50cm from the ignition coil end) is a yellow / white wire, this has one end labelled as spare (e.g. was not connected to anything) but the other end is connected to the +ve terminal on the coil, in the same spade connector as the Pink / White wire.

 

I belie the pink wire is the ballast wire and the yellow / white wire is the ballast bypass wire. These wires have always been separate to the loom, but I would like to wrap them into the loom

 

I am being advised to omit them although I believe running a ballast ignition system is recommended, I have also read that the ballast wire is a resistive wire (not normal copper wire (in lieu of a ballast resistor) and should be kept separate from the loom. 

 

1. Should I omit this wiring and run a 12v non ballast coil?

 

2. Should I wrap it in the loom along the same route as the white wire that goes to the dizzy?

 

3. How long does this wire need to be (the loom is out of the car)

 

4. Where can I get resistive automotive wire from and what gauge is the wire?

 

5. Where can I buy Lucar female spade terminals with the black insulated covers?

 

6. Where can I buy the black female bullet connectors (single and double) that connect the front loom to the rear loom?

 

Many thanks

 

 

 

 

[KTS]

Personally, I would remove the ballast setup and revert to a 12v coil setup as it's not uncommon for the ballast wire to overheat and melt the loom it's bundled in.

If you're really unlucky it'll short and set fire to the loom.

[ACDodd]

Personally I would omit the wire and install a wire wound ballast resistor which is Designed for the job.

https://youtu.be/JKSyBwrVIrs

Reverting to a 12 volt coil is like converting your ignition system back to the 1960’s it’s a backward step.

Ac

Edited by ACDodd, 19 April 2023 - 09:24 PM.

[JonnyAlpha]

Personally I would omit the wire and install a wire wound ballast resistor which is Designed for the job.

https://youtu.be/JKSyBwrVIrs

Reverting to a 12 volt coil is like converting your ignition system back to the 1960’s it’s a backward step.

Ac

Are there any guides or wiring diagrams?
When fitting a ballast resistor does it need a ballast coil?
Can I get rid of both the ballast wire and bypass wire?

I found a couple of videos like this one.
https://youtu.be/oFlq3RwUkEo

[nicklouse]

My first question is what ignition system are you going to use?

 

as if I recall correctly you are not running a distributor. 

[JonnyAlpha]

My first question is what ignition system are you going to use?

as if I recall correctly you are not running a distributor.

You recall correctly, I am planning on installing a NODIS system, using a Speeduino ECU, however, as I am struggling to confirm the ECU systems wiring and setup, I am considering running a standard ignition system. This will be easier to get going and for running in the engine, I don’t want trouble starting and idling.

[ACDodd]

If this is only for first starting a 12 volt coil is perfect.

Ac

[JonnyAlpha]

Ok, I think I labelled the Coil and Oil Px Spade Terminals incorrect.

The white wire for the Ignition Coil + connection was labelled Oil Px and the brown / white wire for the Oil Px connection was labelled spare.

 

I have now corrected this and the white wire is labelled Ign +ve and runs to the Fuse Box Terminal 1 and the brown / white wire is labelled Oil Px and runs to the connector for the Instrument cluster, which should be the Oil Px warning light.

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 21 April 2023 - 11:11 AM.

[Ethel]

The pink is the ballast it adds around 1.5 ohms resistance to a ballast coil to give the combined 3 ohms of the regular 12v coil  used on an unballasted points distributor. 

 

The yellow wire is the bypass. It's connected by an isolated terminal, provided for the purpose, on the starter solenoid. It's really the functional part of a ballasted system. By bypassing the ballast resistor it ensures the coil still gets plenty of power when the starter motor is creating a heavy drain that drops the battery voltage. It's the ballast that's the "compromise" as without it the ignition components would overheat when the ignition is running, but the starter isn't.

 

If it's a temporary fix you're after - just leave the pink out of your wrap. It'll keep it cooler & make it harder for it to melt other stuff. Alternatives are a 1.5ohm power resistor, as  AC suggests or swapping to a 3 ohm coil and replacing the ballast wire with a regular one - there was often a white wire already tucked up in the loom.