19 replies to this topic

[DeadSquare]

CuNiFe,  is a special copper - nickel - iron alloy that has the same co-efficient of expansion as glass.

 

It was developed for making, the now superseded, lead-through wires of incandescent light bulbs and the pins of thermionic valves.

[maystro]

Ok Thanks,

 

So can one of you Professors tell me what type of copper is in this kit and is it legal in the UK   If it is I think it's the same kinda copper I bought 5 meters of in Australia which said it was suitable for brake and clutch applications.  It was pretty hard to bend and I'm sure it must be blended with something else because it was pretty cheap considering pure copper would have cost me a **** load?

http://www.minispare...px|Back to shop

 

Thanks

[KTS]

that will be cunifer or some other copper alloy. 

 

I don't believe minispares have sold copper brake pipes for a long time..

[Spider]

I don't know what it was you previously bought there Brad. Copper can get hard and be stiff to bend in a hardened state, and that's why it's not legal in Australia. I can't say what's legal and what's not in the UK here.

 

Even Cupro-nickel, while suitable, doesn't have legal approval in Australia.

 

Referring to VSB14, section LG, clause 2.4

 

" Hydraulic pipes must be made from steel bundy tube complying with SAE J1047 or equivalent.

All hydraulic pipes must be double flared in accordance with SAE J5336 or equivalent and appropriate flare connections must be used. "

 

https://www.infrastr...2_01Jan2011.pdf

 

Although this is dated 2011, it is all based on standards going back to the 1950's.

 

And they are quite specific in that they state steel piping.

 

Repco, Bursons and most of the usual suspects sell plated steel tubing, or I'm sure you's be able to pick up a short length from a local brake shop, just if they give it to you with open ends, be sure to thoroughly clean it inside before using it.

You can also pick up a tool for doing the compliant ends for not a lot of money, this is a good one;-

 

https://www.ebay.com...jgaAg10EALw_wcB

 

I would recommend avoiding the types of tools that have the 2 long square bars to clamp the pipe in, they will only make flare ends that leak.

If you can wait until later this week, I'll (finally !) be back home, I'll make you one and post it up.

 

[maystro]

Thanks Chris,

You know me and I do everything myself, with a lot of knowledge from my friend?

 

Of course I bought one of those flaring tools which you said not to buy.  However you didn't take into account my MacGyver skills  with a vice?  Anyway  I learnt the double flair works great with the brake line end going to the rubber hose on the trailing arm and a single bell flair works best on the wheel cylinder side.  

Thanks for your gracious offer, but I know a good brake line guy here in Townsville.  

I just ordered new drums and shoes because I'm getting a funny knocking noise when I put my foot on the brakes after putting in new rear wheel cylinders from the back.

 

Thanks Brad