33 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

1982 HLE 1000

 

Hi,

 

As part of an engine upgrade on my 1982 HLE 1000 I will be fitting a mapable ignition and need some help with the electrical installation.

 

As part of my initial restoration (pre engine upgrade), I fitted the following:

 

• Raspberry Pi PC
• 7" TouchScreen
• Sony Radio / CD Player
• Sony XPLOD 1000Watt Amplifier
• Vac Gauge 
• Tachometer
• Oil Px Gauge

The Raspberry Pi, Screen Radio were powered by taking a 12v feed from the solenoid and for the lighting are fed from the bottom R/H connector on the fuse box, this is annotated amongst other things as Instrument Panel Lighting. I also fitted an in line fuse with a lower rating for the lighting.

 

The 12v feed for the Amp comes direct from the battery in the boot via a fuse.

 

I also fitted a new Bosch 60AH Battery

 

As part of this engine upgrade I have bought a new 45 Amp Alternator and need to install the following:

• Speeduino NO2C ECU
• Coil Pack
• Pre Engaged Starter Motor 
• Lambda Sensor 
• AFR Gauge 
• Facet Fuel Pump

Whilst researching the installation of the ECU I came across this diagram that shows the Fuel Pump wired via a 40 Amp Relay.

 

 

 

The original version showed all the Injectors wired, which I have removed and modified.

 

Some initial questions?

 

Where should I take the 12v supply for the Fuel Pump (into terminal 30 on the relay)

Where should I pick up the Ignition Switch Supply that goes to terminal 86 on the FP relay / the +12v on the ECU and the Coil Pack?

 

I have been advised to use a relay for the ECU, so how should that be wired?

 

Where / how should I wire the Lambda Sensor and AFR Gauge?

 

I understand that I need to calculate the current draw on everything and will get on with that.

Any advice on all of this and wiring the new pre engaged starter (I bought a new solenoid and may do the solenoid mod)?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated on all of the above.

 

Many thanks

 

 

 

 

 

[Avtovaz]

what is the ecu? is it the raspberry pi? what software are you using for it?

[PoolGuy]

what is the ecu? is it the raspberry pi? what software are you using for it?

He's using the Speeduino NO2C ECU

[nicklouse]

More info needed.

 

why are you looking at an injection harness?

 

you say Mini 1000 and mappable ignition.

 

most non injection pumps don’t need more than a fuse related at 5-10amps. What is the pump?

 

so are you just doing the ignition or is there an injection system in there as well?

[Avtovaz]

oh right ok, i missed that bit totally when reading the post. Im fitting a speeduino ua4c now to a rover 100,  not sure of the trigger on the spi or mpi for the crank sensor, but the lads doing the software do it for mems pattern for the K series.

 

basically wire it as a standalone thing. wire 2 relays to ig live. one for the ecu only, and one for the fuel pump, coils, and anything else you need. I just made a fuse box into a relay switched live device.

 

 

there is some good info on the speeduino site, look at it very closely, and look 3-4 times at what you are doing as its easy to do it wrong.

[JonnyAlpha]

More info needed.

why are you looking at an injection harness?

you say Mini 1000 and mappable ignition.

most non injection pumps don’t need more than a fuse related at 5-10amps. What is the pump?

so are you just doing the ignition or is there an injection system in there as well?

The car and harness is 1982 HLE 1000
The engine going in is a 1310 and the ignition will be distributor less ECU and Coil Pack.
I am not looking at an injection harness, it’s just the wiring diagram shows absolutely everything connected ( injection and wasted spark and all sensors) I will only be using Crank, O2 and Manifold Px).
Fuel pump is the cubed Facet Road version, up to 3 PSI IIRC

[Ethel]

Here's a wiring diagram for the ERA Turbo. It's just the fuel pump part that you might be interested in. Haven't read the description, but it uses the ballasted ignition bypass that you can find on inertia or pre-engaged setups to start the car. Then it uses the oil pressure switch as a safety cutout. It's a bit more necessary with a high pressure turbo fuel pump, but valid for any electric pump. It should be possible to do similar off a Speeduino output triggered by RPM etc. - It looks like it could already be from your diagram - see if anything is mentioned in the docs etc.

 

 

Where should I take the 12v supply for the Fuel Pump (into terminal 30 on the relay)

 

If your fuel pump is under the boot, you could add it to your boom box tap straight off the battery. Chuck in a fuse & maybe an inertia switch. Alternatively, the solenoid's battery terminal or a chunky brown wire sunning off it (@ fusebox?)

 

Where should I pick up the Ignition Switch Supply that goes to terminal 86 on the FP relay / the +12v on the ECU and the Coil Pack?

 

Any white wire, or wires if helps reduce the loom knitting (e.g. 'duino under the dash, off the ignition switch. Coil from a fusebox terminal.)

 

 

I have been advised to use a relay for the ECU, so how should that be wired?

 

I'm guessing it was suggested to reduce adding load to the existing wiring, but I don't think that would be necessary unless you added a few extras powered off the 'duino. Something similar to the fuel pump relay would do ( pump becomes 'duino, terminal 85 is just earthed. A starter relay will be more essential, if you're swapping from inertia to pre-engaged - don't forget the ring gear too.

 

 

Have you sussed a Throttle position switch for it? A MAP sensor could be easier & better - I'm sure there'll be some info on it in  Speeduino World.

[Icey]

I'll have a better look at this later, but one word of warning adding relays to the ignition switched circuit of a standard loom - the alternator excitation wire can back-feed enough current to hold a standard relay in it's 'on' position. A diode solves it, but it caught me out when I added a relay to provide a supply for my Megajolt and AEM gauge.

[Ethel]

... which would interfere with the bidirectional function of the warning light.

 

Maybe adding a resistor would drop the current enough, in conjunction with the bulb? 

[JonnyAlpha]

I'll have a better look at this later, but one word of warning adding relays to the ignition switched circuit of a standard loom - the alternator excitation wire can back-feed enough current to hold a standard relay in it's 'on' position. A diode solves it, but it caught me out when I added a relay to provide a supply for my Megajolt and AEM gauge.

I was advised by the guy who built my Speeduino to use a relay with a built in diode or solder one to it. Mine have built in diodes. Thanks any other info would be great.

[Nial81]

For the starter I swapped the starter motor cable from the switched side of the solenoid to the permanently live side and onto the large terminal on the starter then all that's needed is another cable to be made from the switched side to one of the smaller terminals on the starter.

[Icey]

I'll have a better look at this later, but one word of warning adding relays to the ignition switched circuit of a standard loom - the alternator excitation wire can back-feed enough current to hold a standard relay in it's 'on' position. A diode solves it, but it caught me out when I added a relay to provide a supply for my Megajolt and AEM gauge.

I was advised by the guy who built my Speeduino to use a relay with a built in diode or solder one to it. Mine have built in diodes. Thanks any other info would be great.

That’s just to deal with fly-back voltages to protect the other electronics, different problem.

[Ethel]

The solenoid will be operated by the ignition live that has the battery connected through the ignition switch, but also the alternator, via the ignition light. If you turn the key off you're isolating it from the battery but not the alternator, so if the alternator powers the ignition the engine will keep running. There wouldn't be enough oomph supplied via the ignition warning light to energise an ignition coil, but there could be enough to keep a solenoid energised.

[Icey]

The solenoid will be operated by the ignition live that has the battery connected through the ignition switch, but also the alternator, via the ignition light. If you turn the key off you're isolating it from the battery but not the alternator, so if the alternator powers the ignition the engine will keep running. There wouldn't be enough oomph supplied via the ignition warning light to energise an ignition coil, but there could be enough to keep a solenoid energised.

Yes, this exactly it. I can confirm that there is enough current to hold a relay! The diode I referred to goes on the wire to the dashboard 'warning' lamp, not the relays.

[JonnyAlpha]

The solenoid will be operated by the ignition live that has the battery connected through the ignition switch, but also the alternator, via the ignition light. If you turn the key off you're isolating it from the battery but not the alternator, so if the alternator powers the ignition the engine will keep running. There wouldn't be enough oomph supplied via the ignition warning light to energise an ignition coil, but there could be enough to keep a solenoid energised.

Yes, this exactly it. I can confirm that there is enough current to hold a relay! The diode I referred to goes on the wire to the dashboard 'warning' lamp, not the relays.

Would you be able to let me know what type of diode, which wire and where / how to install it and what polarity. Thanks