13 replies to this topic

[minstix]

I'm restoring my old MK2 Mini Cooper S and have finally got round to dealing with the front suspension. Althought this is a 1969 hydrolastic model, the needle rollers aremuch the same for almost all classic minis.

 

Extracting the old roller bearings from of the upper suspenstion arms proved to be a challenge. I watched numerous YouTube videos people of made on how to do this. Some make it look very easy using a special extraction tool and others using brute force and not too much finesse.

 

I decided to make my own video, thinking, having bought an extraction tool set, it would all be straight forward. It proved to be not so easy and I ended up using several different methods to get the blighters out. They'd been in there for over 50 years and weren't keen to come out!

 

One of the problems these days is that tools that are sensibly priced are almost always metric and minis are imperial beasts. This was a problem that arrose with the extraction tool that I'd bought from eBay for 28 quid.

 

Here's a link to my bearing exrtaction adventures:

 

https://youtu.be/ZtLS1emAsio

 

 

 Needle roller bearing.jpg   32.52K   0 downloads

 

[Bobbins]

I used the same ebay bearing extractor kit. I found that with the (I think) 20mm size extractor I could get it it enter the bearing quite easily by starting at a 45 deg angle, it was then just a case of being really visious with the extractor hammer.

I did it with the upper arm assembly wedged against my vice jaws so that each hammer stroke created a bigger impact, all came out quite easily. Mine had only been in for 35 years or so though so mere infants!

[Spider]

I bought a few sizes that I needed in Sykes Internal Collet type Extractors about 35 years ago. I think I have 3 altogether, I didn't buy the kit as it was out of my price range at the time and I didn't need all the sizes in the kit. The other thing I didn't like about it (and most newer kits I've seen, like yours in the clip) is they come with a slide hammer to effectively hammer them out in reverse. I made a set if threaded rods and use them with joiner nuts (these are just long nuts). I get the extractor tight in the Bearing, Oil the threads and wind away. Never failed me ever.

[Andosoft]

I used the bushman’s version - dynobolt anchor. Effectively the same thing as it uses the spreading sleeve mechanism to grip the bearing - just that it was about $2 from the hardware shop. M12 spreads to 19mm, and the m16 bolt has a 20mm round head which i used to extract the 2nd the way you did.

My only issue was that on one side it gripped the needles and i actually punched them out of the front of the cage - had to die grind the cage out carefully.

[bpirie1000]

What do you all do with the idler needle bearings?

[Spider]

What do you all do with the idler needle bearings?

 

You mean removing them ?

Same Tool, just a different tube;-

 

 

 

[floormanager]

Hate getting idler bearings out!

[floormanager]

Liked the video.  Always amazing and satisfying removing bearings etc with a threaded bar, a nut and sockets as spacers.

[DeadSquare]

I used the bushman’s version - dynobolt anchor. Effectively the same thing as it uses the spreading sleeve mechanism to grip the bearing - just that it was about $2 from the hardware shop. M12 spreads to 19mm, and the m16 bolt has a 20mm round head which i used to extract the 2nd the way you did.

My only issue was that on one side it gripped the needles and i actually punched them out of the front of the cage - had to die grind the cage out carefully.

 

 

A slightly larger 20mm Dynobolt or Rawlbolt than your 19mm, needs a little modification, but works well for the Top Arm.

 

By inserting a short length of 20mm bore tube in a lathe, 2mm of the collet end of the Dyno/Rawlbolt can be expanded and gripped in the tube.  2mm is then carefully turned off the outside diameter of the collets for the depth of the bearing cage, leaving 2mm of 20mm diameter shoulder in the tube.

 

I put the arm in a vice and drift the cage out with gentle taps of a 'lump hammer'.

 

In a different way, it can be used to remove the Transfer Case cage, but the 2mm length of the shoulder needs to be reduced to 1mm, and the 'pyramid expanding nut' also needs reducing by trial and error or cunning guess work, so that there is enough space for it to clear a steel disc that has been dropped through the cage, onto the alluminuim housing.

 

With plenty of grease about, the thread is screwed through the suitably reduced pyramid nut, and by the end of the thread pressing on the steel disc, the collets expand.  When the collets are fully expanded, by holding the exposed section of the collets with Mole Grips and continuing to screw against the steel disc, the cage is pushed out.

[bpirie1000]

I always used the threaded bar method but wanted to see if i was missing a trick orr two!

Thanks folks.

[nicklouse]

I just drift them out with care.

[xrocketengineer]

Very good video!

 

Well, I learned that when using the puller with the hammer, it is much better to let gravity help you. The pulling must be done vertically and in the down direction.

 

https://www.theminif...th-radius-arms/

[coopertaz]

i have a lrage flat screwdriver with end formed 90 degrees and drift out carefully from other side. if not moving have created a notch in outer, after removing needles, with tapered burr

[Andosoft]

What do you all do with the idler needle bearings?

I’ve seen a video example where you pack the bearing full to top of grease then use a close fitting drift down the centre. The idea being that the pressure of the grease will force the bearing out. I haven’t had a chance to try this yet, but want to give it a try one day - just because.