16 replies to this topic

[mattaebersold]

Question about the hub and castle nut. 

 

When I tighten the nut, it goes past the hole in the shaft. Then, sticking a cotter pin in there doesn't go in between the cutouts in the nut. My issue started when the nut was working it's way loose as I drove for awhile, shearing off the cotter pin. Yikes.

 

So I want to solve this once and for all... I have a few thoughts, please help let me know which is the best option...

 

 

1. I could get a washer at the correct size, so that when I apply all the torque to the nut, then the hole is within the grooves. I question the type of washer material, like something that's strong enough to withstand the torque, as well as a type of metal that wont corrode.

 

2. I torque the nut correctly, and then just put a cotter pin in even though it's clearing the nut. At least that would stop it from walking loose?

 

3. ??? Something I'm not thinking of? A root cause somewhere else?

 

[nicklouse]

First thing would be to check the taper washer for wear. Then follow the manual. Tighten to torque then keep going untill you can align the holes for a pin to be fitted.

[Spider]

Sorry, but your CV is now karput.

[sonscar]

I agree,thread is goosed.It is done very tight.Steve..

[cal844]

That CV joint needs replacing, the threads have stripped and it would be wise to now replace the other side as a precaution.

[Ethel]

It's a split pin, not a cotter, just to save confusion if you're searching for replacements.

 

As Spider says something else is amiss if it's unscrewing & shearing the pin. The pin's just a failsafe & should never be loaded in usual conditions.

[GraemeC]

He's in the USof A though Eth, where our split pin is their cotter pin.

[andyapanel]

I would change the bearings, too.

You will need a Haynes which takes you through the process of tightening up the hub nut.

Good luck; if its your first go, take it slowly, follow the steps and it will be fine. Make sure you have the correct sized split pins and the big washer to load the bearings.

[sonscar]

When I had a similar happening the hub,joint washer and nut stacked up tolerances so that it would undo no matter how tight it was.Renewed them all with new bearings and fixed it.Steve..

[Richard e]

Don’t you need to use a flat washer to tighten the nut to the required torque and then replace the tapered washer re torque and fit the split pin (after you have replaced the cv joint due the threads being stripped)

[mattaebersold]

Interesting. I never thought about wear on the tapered washer. I will get new ones for both sides. 

 

And many of you are saying the CV is bad, kaput, etc. Can you let me know how that relates to the problem of the nut screwing down too far to clear the hole for the pin?

 

- are the actual threads compromised somehow? Like they won't hold the nut torqued down?

- is there something in the CV/axles where when it wears, and it's 'bad', then the shaft has play or something, and sticks out too far? 

 

I see the logic in the idea that the tapered washer has worn down, but I don't see the immediate logic in the CV's are just 'bad'

[nicklouse]

 

 

And many of you are saying the CV is bad, kaput, etc. Can you let me know how that relates to the problem of the nut screwing down too far to clear the hole for the pin?

 

What do you mean by this. It does not really make sense as you torque the nut then moving on till the hole lines up. You saying screwing down to clear is not clear.

 

re the CVs and the hubs. If the bearings have been run with the nut lose they can spin. Then the hub and cv are normally out of tolerance and need replacing.

[Lplus]

Interesting. I never thought about wear on the tapered washer. I will get new ones for both sides. 

 

And many of you are saying the CV is bad, kaput, etc. Can you let me know how that relates to the problem of the nut screwing down too far to clear the hole for the pin?

 

- are the actual threads compromised somehow? Like they won't hold the nut torqued down?

- is there something in the CV/axles where when it wears, and it's 'bad', then the shaft has play or something, and sticks out too far? 

 

I see the logic in the idea that the tapered washer has worn down, but I don't see the immediate logic in the CV's are just 'bad'

Looking at your photo it almost seems as if the threaded section has stretched and distorted the threads - hat might cause the nut castellations to go beyond the hole. But there's other possible reasons such as:-  worn hub where the outer bearing races seat; missing or worn spacer between the two inner bearing races;  worn bearing races themselves; worn rollers themselves.

 

The fact the nut keeps loosening suggests something keeps wearing quickly within the hub/bearing system and you should dismantle the whole lot to find out.
 

[bikewiz]

Once you've replaced the CV with new I've found the 12 slot castle nut from Classic Minis Japan and the tapered washer from KAD are worth using.

 

https://kentautodeve...730d3426d&_ss=r

 

https://classicminis...lot-castle-nut/

[Spider]

Interesting. I never thought about wear on the tapered washer. I will get new ones for both sides. 

 

And many of you are saying the CV is bad, kaput, etc. Can you let me know how that relates to the problem of the nut screwing down too far to clear the hole for the pin?

 

- are the actual threads compromised somehow? Like they won't hold the nut torqued down?

- is there something in the CV/axles where when it wears, and it's 'bad', then the shaft has play or something, and sticks out too far? 

 

I see the logic in the idea that the tapered washer has worn down, but I don't see the immediate logic in the CV's are just 'bad'

 

I can see the thread on the CV is very badly damaged. This is a safety critical item.

When the nut is done up, it's torqued according to the CV you have, then tightened further to align the slots in the nut with the hole for the split pin.

This is not a complete guide, but you might find it enlightening;-

 

https://www.theminif...wheel-bearings/