Hi all. I recently purchased a 1985, 998 Mayfair, verto. I was told the engine itself was free, but that it hadn't likely been run since the early 90's. It certainly moved when I turned it by the crankshaft bolt on arrival, but I wouldn't have turned it far.
The last hard info I have, was a diagnostic report in 1992, which details the compression levels were all good, but power balance was poor. Cyl1 74% / Cyl2 94% / Cyl3 100% / Cyl4 64%.
I wanted to check and run the engine before progressing too far along the ever growing repair list, so I changed all the radiator pipes, heater matrix (obviously an historic leak), water pump, oil and filter. Fitted new alternator (old had seized solid), battery and oil pressure switch (old one not working) and new fan belt.
I jacked the car up, removed the sparks, squirted some oil around each cylinder and left overnight. Cracked off the banjo, squirted some oil down, selected 4th gear and attempted to prime the oil pump by turning the road wheel. This is when I ran into my problem.
I can rotate the road wheel by hand, with relative ease (brakes maybe binding slightly), around half a turn or so, in both clockwise & anti-clockwise, but it will then lock solid at the end of each half turn. (wheel turns freely when in neutral) I can see all the pistons moving, and it appears I can reach TDC - by feeling air on cylinder 1 and the crank mark on the timing cover. Just purchased a boroscope for a closer look, this shows some crud (guessing mixed old oil leakage & soot, and new oil?) on the top of some of the pistons, but not so much on #4. There are some run/stain marks from the top of the cylinder #1 & #2, but not all the way down the sides. There is also some scoring to the sides, in particular to cylinder 1.
I have checked, as best as I can, the tappets for movement and gap, which seem to be ok.
Before I pull the head, is there something that I could have done by changing the earlier parts? Or something else I can/should check first?
Thanks for any help you can provide,
Mike