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Best Radiator On The Market?


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#16 Chris1992

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Posted 21 July 2022 - 02:50 PM

Hi Chris,

 

I think it's alreadly been summised, but the issue you're facing isn't necessarily needing the best radiator, it's making your current one as efficient as possible, ESPECIALLY whilst stationary, when most mini's tend to die a slow, heat infused, death.

 

What fan make have you got installed on yours? Ducting is definitey the best way to make the most of it all, and get an override switch on the fan! Out of curiosity, have you currently got the D400 controlling your fan?

 

Iv'e got the biggest Revotec electric fan I could fit, and yes mate it's currently controlled by the D400 



#17 IronmanG

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Posted 21 July 2022 - 02:56 PM

Mines controlled by the delta but I put a switch on it as well.

#18 sonscar

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Posted 21 July 2022 - 05:01 PM

Controversial maybe but I would try a mainstream car manufacturers fan from a scrappy as they,in my experience,produce real cubic feet per minute.Ducting the rad to the fan is a really good idea.Multi core radiators can flow less air and be less efficient unless really well designed.More water takes longer to heat up but also longer to cool.Just a few thoughts,Steve..

#19 Steve220

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Posted 21 July 2022 - 05:02 PM

 

Hi Chris,

 

I think it's alreadly been summised, but the issue you're facing isn't necessarily needing the best radiator, it's making your current one as efficient as possible, ESPECIALLY whilst stationary, when most mini's tend to die a slow, heat infused, death.

 

What fan make have you got installed on yours? Ducting is definitey the best way to make the most of it all, and get an override switch on the fan! Out of curiosity, have you currently got the D400 controlling your fan?

 

Iv'e got the biggest Revotec electric fan I could fit, and yes mate it's currently controlled by the D400 

 

What are the on and off temps in the software?



#20 Chris1992

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Posted 21 July 2022 - 06:03 PM

What are the on and off temps in the software?

 


 

 

Currently set to come on at 75 and off at 70. I originally had it set to 85 and 80, but I found that once the heat started rising it was struggling to bring it back down, so I lowered it to give it a head start of sorts!



#21 Chris1992

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Posted 21 July 2022 - 06:04 PM

Controversial maybe but I would try a mainstream car manufacturers fan from a scrappy as they,in my experience,produce real cubic feet per minute.Ducting the rad to the fan is a really good idea.Multi core radiators can flow less air and be less efficient unless really well designed.More water takes longer to heat up but also longer to cool.Just a few thoughts,Steve..

 

Very interesting info about the pros and cons of multi core rads. I had never considered that! 



#22 nicklouse

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Posted 21 July 2022 - 06:12 PM

Ok, the question that has not been asked.

 

what coolant are you using?



#23 Spider

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Posted 21 July 2022 - 07:42 PM

 

If you find yourself in stop start traffic often, then much as I detest them, you may need an electric fan, but don't loose the mechanical fan !

 

Already got one fitted mate! It definitely helps but things are still getting toasty.

 

 

Sorry, it does seem I missed that point.

In that case, I'd be saying most likely, your Ignition timing at idle and low engine speeds isn't where it should be. It could be fueling, but I think you'd be noticing other issues. It could possibly be lack of coolant circulation (pump running too slow), though I would tend to think not. One way to prove this is to temporarily fit a thermocouple type temp gauge to the lower radiator tank or slip in inside the lower hose.

That you aren't complaining of cooling issues when running, tends to say to me that it has ample cooling capacity - remember, around 30% of the power made in the cylinders is dumped in to the cooling system. You'd be making much more heat therefore at 60 mph than at idle. So I boil this down to (pun intended) air flow through the Radiator (is the electric fan spinning the right way ?) or simply making too much heat at these low engine speeds.



#24 Northernpower

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Posted 21 July 2022 - 10:16 PM

The other area I would look at is the intake, I can't remember if your air filter has holes through the bonnet, if not, you'll be getting extremely hot air going straight into the cylinders.

#25 cooperd70

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Posted 22 July 2022 - 05:42 AM


What are the on and off temps in the software?





Currently set to come on at 75 and off at 70. I originally had it set to 85 and 80, but I found that once the heat started rising it was struggling to bring it back down, so I lowered it to give it a head start of sorts!

If I remember correctly your car is lowered {with big wheels}!?!
If the Revotec is struggling to get the temp back down then maybe its because there isn't enough capacity in the wheel arch for the fan to extract the hot air to and out of...once mine kicks in (rarely) at 90/95 it soons gets the temp back down and there is a hugh amount of hot air being pushed into and out of the wheel arch. Something else to consider.

#26 Northernpower

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Posted 22 July 2022 - 08:02 AM

If I remember correctly your car is lowered {with big wheels}!?!
If the Revotec is struggling to get the temp back down then maybe its because there isn't enough capacity in the wheel arch for the fan to extract the hot air to and out of...once mine kicks in (rarely) at 90/95 it soons gets the temp back down and there is a hugh amount of hot air being pushed into and out of the wheel arch. Something else to consider.

I have to agree with this, once my electric fan kicked in, it significantly dropped the temp, the amount of hot air coming out of the wheel arch was very noticeable, I never had another overheating problem. Double check you haven't got too much antifreeze in the coolant, it does reduce the cooling efficency considerably.

#27 Chris1992

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Posted 22 July 2022 - 08:43 AM

Ok, the question that has not been asked.

 

what coolant are you using?

 

I think just cheap Tesco stuff! It had always done the trick in the past but I'll change it out for something of higher quality. What brands would you recommend?  

 

 


 

Sorry, it does seem I missed that point.

In that case, I'd be saying most likely, your Ignition timing at idle and low engine speeds isn't where it should be. It could be fueling, but I think you'd be noticing other issues. It could possibly be lack of coolant circulation (pump running too slow), though I would tend to think not. One way to prove this is to temporarily fit a thermocouple type temp gauge to the lower radiator tank or slip in inside the lower hose.

That you aren't complaining of cooling issues when running, tends to say to me that it has ample cooling capacity - remember, around 30% of the power made in the cylinders is dumped in to the cooling system. You'd be making much more heat therefore at 60 mph than at idle. So I boil this down to (pun intended) air flow through the Radiator (is the electric fan spinning the right way ?) or simply making too much heat at these low engine speeds.

 

 

I definitely agree with your comments about airflow through the rad, and it lines up whit what others have said, especially regarding the inner wing cowling. The fan is definitely spinning the right way as I can feel hot air being pushed out from under the wheel arch.

 

The other area I would look at is the intake, I can't remember if your air filter has holes through the bonnet, if not, you'll be getting extremely hot air going straight into the cylinders.

 

There are no holes in the bonnet, but there is a gap between the bonnet and slam panel right in front of the filters. I had been putting off cutting holes as I was hoping to get away with it and I like the clean look, but I think some holes may need to be cut!

 


If I remember correctly your car is lowered {with big wheels}!?!
If the Revotec is struggling to get the temp back down then maybe its because there isn't enough capacity in the wheel arch for the fan to extract the hot air to and out of...once mine kicks in (rarely) at 90/95 it soons gets the temp back down and there is a hugh amount of hot air being pushed into and out of the wheel arch. Something else to consider.

 

 

Yes indeed, very low lol. This could be part of the problem to be honest. I can definitely feel the hot air being pushed out from the arch, I may look into some sort of subtle vent in the wing or A-panel if I can't sort the problem with ducting and a better coolant mix. 

 

 

I have to agree with this, once my electric fan kicked in, it significantly dropped the temp, the amount of hot air coming out of the wheel arch was very noticeable, I never had another overheating problem. Double check you haven't got too much antifreeze in the coolant, it does reduce the cooling efficency considerably.

 

 

I suspect this could well be part of the problem. Before this conversation I was never aware that too much coolant/antifreeze could cause issues. I sort the mix out with some good quality stuff and then move onto wing ducting if that doesn't sort it out!

 

Thanks for all the input guys!



#28 nicklouse

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Posted 22 July 2022 - 09:05 AM

Chris that if fine, just checking you are not using some stupid expensive stuff that is no good.



#29 Chris1992

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Posted 22 July 2022 - 09:07 AM

Chris that if fine, just checking you are not using some stupid expensive stuff that is no good.

 

Ahhh right I see, good to know I don't need to fork out for the fancy stuff!



#30 KTS

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Posted 22 July 2022 - 09:16 AM

something else to consider may be what size pulley you have on the water pump; reducing the pulley size will increase the volume of water being pumped at idle (...but may end up causing cavitation issues at higher revs)






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