42 replies to this topic

[stuart bowes]

just being a milwaukee doesn't give it superpowers though, what torque rating is it? 

 

the battery ones are handy but often dont have as much oomph, this is why I linked the corded ones which even the cheapest one (which I went with) has 320nm, it takes a few seconds of hammering but it gets stuff off

 

if a long bar with extension pole isn't doing it, you probably will just have to cut it

Edited by stuart bowes, 15 July 2022 - 12:21 PM.

[TheHunterHofman]

Okay, so even with my new Milwaukee M18 FUEL I’m not getting this ******* nut off. I have also tried it with the wheels back on the car, and again with heaps of heat. I’ll look into the other options you people presented and update accordingly. Thanks again

Just to check. They are both standard thread.

Yeah both standard thread, I even checked if they were welded on there (for whatever reason); that also isn’t the case.

[burchy35]

It's not a reverse thread by any chance is it? The off side wheel?

[burchy35]

Sorry I mean the bear side wheel.

[burchy35]

Near side. Not bear side 🙄

[minimat]

Cut it off, even if you damage the cv joint thread and have to replace that as well it will probably still work out cheaper than  buying the impact gun.

[weef]

"Needs must" .......................................

[Midas Mk1]

how long are you impacting for? try 30’seconds or so.

At work, cv nuts are 330nm and they come off in seconds, air impact and with my amazon special 1/2 cordless impact. Try pb blaster as I mentioned before.

[Magneto]

Just run down to your local shop and have them knock it loose with a proper air driven impact wrench, then put it back on but only to 100lbs of torque or so - put cotter pin in and drive home then complete your job.

[Steve66]

I can’t remember for sure for mini’s but most cars one side is right hand thread the other is left hand thread so when the car is driving forward the nut is tightening in effect.  Split pin stops this obviously but that is the ideal. 
Worth checking before cutting anything.  

Edited by Steve66, 16 July 2022 - 09:06 AM.

[nicklouse]

I can’t remember for sure for mini’s but most cars one side is right hand thread the other is left hand thread so when the car is driving forward the nut is tightening in effect.  Split pin stops this obviously but that is the ideal. 
Worth checking before cutting anything.  

No.

[nicklouse]

It's not a reverse thread by any chance is it? The off side wheel?

No

[mini13]

I've had a couple if these in the past where they wouldn't budge, even with a big breaker bar and scaffold tube.

a sharp chisel into the castleation often makes short work, and them they come of easy (unless somone previously loctited it, yeah I know right)

[Spider]

Not sure where you are at with this, but as Nick suggested, when they get like this, you'd be best off to cut the nut off.

When I've had to do this, I slot through the nut on the front side with a cutting disc, almost all the way through and just above the thread, then a couple of hits with a cold chisel, usually then, you can get what's left undone, if not, do the same on the other side of the nut.

[TheHunterHofman]

just being a milwaukee doesn't give it superpowers though, what torque rating is it? 

 

the battery ones are handy but often dont have as much oomph, this is why I linked the corded ones which even the cheapest one (which I went with) has 320nm, it takes a few seconds of hammering but it gets stuff off

 

if a long bar with extension pole isn't doing it, you probably will just have to cut it

So the max setting provides 1,400 ft/lbs of nut busting torque. It's not budging, even going at it for about 30 seconds or so. I guess I'll try a long breaker bar with an extension next, before cutting it off