
Loosening Drive Shaft Nut
#1
Posted 13 July 2022 - 02:59 PM
I’m having the hardest time removing the nut of the drive shaft on my 2000 Mini Cooper MPI. I’ve used a breaker bar (with a crowbar holding the studs/hub in place), I’ve used an old exhaust pipe as leverage (it broke the adapter) and finally, I’ve used heat with a gas torch and an impact wrench (although not the strongest), all to no avail. I’m thinking of ordering a very strong milwaukee impact driver…
And yes, the split pin is removed and I’ve used penetration oil.
Any tips anyone?
Thanks in advance!
Regards,
#2
Posted 13 July 2022 - 03:18 PM
machine mart clarke ones (plugin) are comparatively cheaper and more bang for the buck
https://www.machinem...e impact driver
I got the CEW520 and so far there's nothing it hasn't managed to undo
#3
Posted 13 July 2022 - 03:30 PM
Cut it off.
#4
Posted 13 July 2022 - 05:10 PM
Meter long 1/2" breaker bar and a 3 meter bar of scaffold pole. Get someone to hold the brake pedal on and swing on it.
#5
Posted 13 July 2022 - 06:26 PM
Maybe try getting your socket in the centre bore of the wheel, then you can lower the car with the wheel on and use the weight of the car
Edited by cal844, 13 July 2022 - 06:27 PM.
#6
Posted 14 July 2022 - 01:38 PM
#7
Posted 14 July 2022 - 03:31 PM
yeah i always put the wheel back on after removing the split pin. Then lower the car, get someone to sit in it, and go at it with a big breaker bar. Easy!
#8
Posted 14 July 2022 - 03:41 PM
If you are really really struggling try this method, but mind your fingers.
Only jack up the wheel you are working on, apply the handbrake and chock the wheels. rest the car on a secure stand.
If you can access the nut through the wheel centre leave the wheel on, if not remove the wheel. Using a good fitting socket and a short "tee" bar, a 3/4 drive set is best but 1/2 will do. Rest the end of the "tee" bar on a block of wood, make this just below the centre height of the driveshaft and have an assistant hold the socket on the nut. Use a piece of wood or something, NOT YOUR HAND, to keep the socket on the nut.
Dependant on what side it is, determine what way the shaft has to turn to slacken the nut. Now into the car and start the engine and select 1st or reverse gear, dependant on which way you need to turn the shaft, then easing off the clutch use the drive to unscrew the nut. You might have to "jolt" it a bit to shock the nut slack. This is where the person is at risk of the socket coming off the nut so be aware.
I regard this as a "needs must" method if all else fails.
#9
Posted 14 July 2022 - 07:59 PM
#10
Posted 15 July 2022 - 08:03 AM
If you are really really struggling try this method, but mind your fingers.
Only jack up the wheel you are working on, apply the handbrake and chock the wheels. rest the car on a secure stand.
If you can access the nut through the wheel centre leave the wheel on, if not remove the wheel. Using a good fitting socket and a short "tee" bar, a 3/4 drive set is best but 1/2 will do. Rest the end of the "tee" bar on a block of wood, make this just below the centre height of the driveshaft and have an assistant hold the socket on the nut. Use a piece of wood or something, NOT YOUR HAND, to keep the socket on the nut.
Dependant on what side it is, determine what way the shaft has to turn to slacken the nut. Now into the car and start the engine and select 1st or reverse gear, dependant on which way you need to turn the shaft, then easing off the clutch use the drive to unscrew the nut. You might have to "jolt" it a bit to shock the nut slack. This is where the person is at risk of the socket coming off the nut so be aware.
I regard this as a "needs must" method if all else fails.
hell def. needs must. thank god never needed!!
#11
Posted 15 July 2022 - 09:09 AM
Thanks for the replies everyone, really grateful. I've ordered myself a strong impact driver; can't imagine not getting it off with that.
#12
Posted 15 July 2022 - 09:56 AM
If you are really really struggling try this method, but mind your fingers.
Only jack up the wheel you are working on, apply the handbrake and chock the wheels. rest the car on a secure stand.
If you can access the nut through the wheel centre leave the wheel on, if not remove the wheel. Using a good fitting socket and a short "tee" bar, a 3/4 drive set is best but 1/2 will do. Rest the end of the "tee" bar on a block of wood, make this just below the centre height of the driveshaft and have an assistant hold the socket on the nut. Use a piece of wood or something, NOT YOUR HAND, to keep the socket on the nut.
Dependant on what side it is, determine what way the shaft has to turn to slacken the nut. Now into the car and start the engine and select 1st or reverse gear, dependant on which way you need to turn the shaft, then easing off the clutch use the drive to unscrew the nut. You might have to "jolt" it a bit to shock the nut slack. This is where the person is at risk of the socket coming off the nut so be aware.
I regard this as a "needs must" method if all else fails.
hell def. needs must. thank god never needed!!
lol when you brush your teeth what you do right is glue your toothbrush to the blade of a ceiling fan, then what you do is you get a step ladder, now be careful with this next bit because it could get a bit iffy..
#13
Posted 15 July 2022 - 10:04 AM
I will just add this.
when undoing the nut. Put the wheel back on. Lower it back on the ground. Undo by pressing down.
if this has not worked then cut.
#14
Posted 15 July 2022 - 12:14 PM
#15
Posted 15 July 2022 - 12:18 PM
Okay, so even with my new Milwaukee M18 FUEL I’m not getting this ******* nut off. I have also tried it with the wheels back on the car, and again with heaps of heat. I’ll look into the other options you people presented and update accordingly. Thanks again
Just to check. They are both standard thread.
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