7 replies to this topic

[zero_wlv]

Hi all,

 

At some point over the next week I'll be replacing my fuel pump,  not because there's any desperate need to do it but simply because this is the original pump from 1988 and I'm getting wary of the additional ethanol in fuels recently.    Also,  being from an engineering background,  I'm acutely aware that rubber can't be relied on to last 34 years at the best of times,   ethanol or no ethanol!     I really don't want to end up with a sump flooded with petrol.

 

The replacement pump is a like-for-like mechanical unit,  AZX1818 from Minispares.    

 

My problem is,  how do I get enough space to pass the old pump out and get the new one in?

I think it's my exhaust manifold that's causing the problem,   it's the Maniflow unit from the Minispares Stage 1 kit and there isn't enough clearance to pass the pump through.

 

I suppose an obvious solution would be to detach the exhaust manifold to give it clearance to push down a bit,  but I only replaced the manifold gasket a couple of weeks back and I hate messing with gaskets once I've got them sealed successfully.

 

 fuel pump.jpg   38.12K   3 downloads

 

Two possibilities occur to me:

 

-  is it possible to pass the new pump into place from below the car,   by reaching round the CV joint?

-  will removing the red breather canister give enough clearance,   and is it straightforward to remove?     I tried feeling for bolts but couldn't feel any.      If I do remove the canister,  will it need a fresh gasket?

 

Loads of forum members must have had to do this job so hopefully someone knows a simple way to do it :)

 

I'm aware that I've posted a few questions asking for advice recently so apologies if any of these questions seem a bit simple or unnecessary.
But I thought it'd be more sensible to ask than to spend hours struggling to do it.

 

Thanks,

Liam

 

Additional info:   998cc 1989 manual Mini with Hif38 carb and Stage 1 kit including Maniflow exhaust manifold

Edited by zero_wlv, 13 July 2022 - 12:40 PM.

[Gilles1000]

To be honest I am not sure I would change the pump as long as it is working, and if it fails I am not sure you would flood the engine.

 

I already changed the pump in situ, but with an original exhaust. While I am pretty sure with maniflow it will be much more tight to change it, I think it is not unfeasible.

Maybe from below it is easier. I spotted that your current pump is an older one (all metal). Is the new also like this?

 

Removing the breather is one way to do it, although it means changing a gasket (tappet chest cover gasket, which may already leak). There is one screw in the middle of it.

 

Cheers 

Gilles

[zero_wlv]

To be honest I am not sure I would change the pump as long as it is working, and if it fails I am not sure you would flood the engine.

 

I already changed the pump in situ, but with an original exhaust. While I am pretty sure with maniflow it will be much more tight to change it, I think it is not unfeasible.

Maybe from below it is easier. I spotted that your current pump is an older one (all metal). Is the new also like this?

 

Removing the breather is one way to do it, although it means changing a gasket (tappet chest cover gasket, which may already leak). There is one screw in the middle of it.

 

Cheers 

Gilles

 

Thanks Gilles,    luckily I happen to have a spare tappet chest gasket.     Are the bolts for undoing the canister accessible from inside the tappet chest?     No wonder I couldn't figure out how it was attached.

Although I think I'm inclined to try reaching from underneath first.

 

The new one is visually identical to the old one   --  all metal,  branded 'Burlen SU'.       But the supplier assures me this latest pump contains an ethanol resistant rubber diaphragm.

[cal844]

Undo the engine stabiliser bars, rock the engine forward and it is doable without removing components. Remember the 2 gaskets for the pump and spacer

[zero_wlv]

Undo the engine stabiliser bars, rock the engine forward and it is doable without removing components. Remember the 2 gaskets for the pump and spacer

 

Thanks :) this completely hadn't occurred to me,   that should hopefully be just enough to squeeze it in.

 

I don't have access to the car right at the moment but from what I remember,  it only has the one stabiliser,  which is the dog-bone steady near the top of the clutch housing.   

[cal844]

Undo the engine stabiliser bars, rock the engine forward and it is doable without removing components. Remember the 2 gaskets for the pump and spacer

Thanks :) this completely hadn't occurred to me, that should hopefully be just enough to squeeze it in.

I don't have access to the car right at the moment but from what I remember, it only has the one stabiliser, which is the dog-bone steady near the top of the clutch housing.

There should also be one on the same side but down under the starter motor.

The plastic piece on the drive lever stays on, there may or may not be one on the old unit.

Best of luck, take your time with it

Edited by cal844, 13 July 2022 - 02:27 PM.

[sonscar]

It is doable,the canister is part of the tappet chest cover.Steve..

[andyapanel]

Make sure the fuel level is low or you will find it emptying into the engine bay
As said, they are pretty reliable and I would not change it unless it was faulty
Good luck