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New Points And Condenser, Burning Hot Coil


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#1 1984mini25

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Posted 17 June 2022 - 10:12 PM

Recently replaced the coil (9v ballast with pink wire) with an Intermotor one (GCL1217 - 11070) as I thought the new Lucas coil (DLB102) was the cause of a recent misfire. It wasn’t, it was the electronic module as it was still misfiring, but the new coil was stone cold and refitting the points on a spare baseplate cured the misfire (briefly).

 

Fitted a brand new set of points and condenser, as the get me home points were pitted thanks to the used condenser being bad (there was a large electrical spark that could be heard during starting) and obviously reset the timing.

 

It was running great until another 20 miles later and it’s missing (not nearly as bad as it has been) under load pulling away and up hills. I haven’t had a proper look or any tinkering, but did notice once home that the coil was not only hot you could tell it was without touching it. Question is, is it likely to be the condenser that’s fried the coil (don’t want to go fitting another new coil only for the same to happen again) or it’s just the coil that’s faulty?

 

 

 



#2 Aly-g

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Posted 18 June 2022 - 08:21 AM

If after fitting a new coil the problem was cured temporary then I would be looking for something that you have moved such as the connections to the coil, HT leads , if you have e a spare coil to distributor try that or maybe another distributor cap and leads, good luck, let us know if you cure it,

Allan

#3 sonscar

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Posted 18 June 2022 - 08:26 AM

Points gap too small?Coils get hot if turned on too much,if you leave the ign on and the points are closed it can overheat.If the condenser is shorted internally this could happen but then it would not run.Partial failure?Steve..

#4 1984mini25

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Posted 18 June 2022 - 12:41 PM

Points gap I set to 0.015”, although I’ll obviously check to see if the gap has closed up.

I never leave the ignition on without the engine running, so that one can be ruled out. (Been stupid in the past and finding a totally flat battery after washing the car or the doors deciding to lock themselves with the key in the ignition (not on a mini) is not fun)

I’ll also check the resistance of the coil (I’m sure it was 1.6ohms) just to make sure it is the correct one for a ballast system, as it has no markings on the coil other than the part number on the box.



#5 1984mini25

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Posted 19 June 2022 - 08:41 PM

Removed the distributor to give it a once over(easier than trying to do it on the car). Points gap hadn’t changed and didn’t look burnt in anyway. Couldn’t test the condenser but I’d just recently bought a stock of nos condensers, so swapped out the non branded one anyway. And checked the advance weights are all fee to move (removed the base plate and gave then a good spray/clean while I was at it). So that just leaves the coil.



#6 mad4classics

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Posted 20 June 2022 - 12:34 PM

Are there any vestiges of the electronic ignition installation still lurking?

Worth checking the cold start coil feed from the solenoid is not actually a permanent live with the ignition on. This would overheat a ballast coil after a few miles.

However, sadly it’s not unusual for new parts to be bad.

#7 1984mini25

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Posted 20 June 2022 - 04:43 PM

Well while the dizzy was still off the engine I did think to check the voltage to the coil with the ignition on, which was 6 volts.

 

Popped the dizzy back in, got it running and set the timing. I got as far as the end of the road though before it was misfiring again (so the new nos condenser didn’t make any difference). Quickly pulled over and checked the coil witch was hot and limped it back home. Once home checked the temp of the coil with it idling and it was around 50 degrees and rising.

 

Swapped back over to the 'spare' new Lucas ballast coil (witch I’d previously thought was faulty) and made it out and back along the bypass without it misfiring, the coil temp was also 20 degrees when ticking over.



#8 1984mini25

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Posted 20 June 2022 - 06:59 PM

And while I was at it these are the plugs after getting back, as they are in the engine no.1 being on the right. Was only a short run with a bit of idling, so maybe about right? Not too sure why no.2 is slightly more sooty though. 

 

Attached File  2022-06-20 10.59.55.jpg   34.21K   0 downloads



#9 coopertaz

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Posted 21 June 2022 - 10:42 AM

wouldn't worry at all if slightly more sooty as long as not wet or fouled if car runs fine. loads of problems with parts about nowadays unfortunately






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