32 replies to this topic

[super6al]

Hello all

I've managed to break the fan switch on my 1990 carb cooper (basically unleaded 1275 metro engine that uses an auxiliary electric fan). its listed as YWL10010 on Mini spares & uses an M8 thread into the thermostat housing. New ones are £45. I'm all for originality but it seems a lot for a basic switch. Does anyone have an alternative to it.

Thanks

Alan

 

[cal844]

Hello all
I've managed to break the fan switch on my 1990 carb cooper (basically unleaded 1275 metro engine that uses an auxiliary electric fan). its listed as YWL10010 on Mini spares & uses an M8 thread into the thermostat housing. New ones are £45. I'm all for originality but it seems a lot for a basic switch. Does anyone have an alternative to it.
Thanks
Alan

Yes, why not put the auxiliary fan on a switch on the dash?

[whistler]

Mine has the switch in the bottom of the rad.

[stuart bowes]

dash switch should be through a relay or using a suitably rated switch..

 

not sure how original one is set up may already have a relay but I know when I did this even temporarily once the switch got REALLY hot very quickly

Edited by stuart bowes, 22 March 2022 - 12:03 PM.

[richmondclassicsnorthwales]

I would be entitled to agree, and use a independent switch on the underdash / dashboard..

 

You control it when you want it..

 

The thing is, with these type switches, you will never know if it is working correctly, too much junk on the market sometimes..

 

These switches are £78 at Rimmers, basically scandalous prices even at £45, it simply is just too much, who can justify an M8 threaded 

temperature switch for £50 and if so, with what ??

[cal844]

Mine has the switch in the bottom of the rad.

If it's been in the rad for 30 years, chances are it's covered in antifreeze gum. Which is why I wire them to a switch in the dash. I use a Lucas brand NOS extended toggle switch.

Edited by cal844, 22 March 2022 - 03:11 PM.

[PoolGuy]

New ones are £45. I'm all for originality but it seems a lot for a basic switch. 

Any other solution will probably cost you more than £45 in time, effort and parts. I'd be inclined to replace it, unless it's an inherently unreliable part.

[sonscar]

I am an inveterate tightwad and I would buy a new switch.If the fan switch failed on your modern would you fit a switch on the dash?Just my jaundiced opinion,Steve..

[super6al]

Hi 

Thanks everyone for advice. My worry about mounting a manual switch is it relies on me to operate it & as I'm less reliable than the thermo switch   it looks like I'll be relieved of £45+postage as there doesn't appear to be a cheaper alternative.

Can't help but wonder what was going on in the Rover tick box department in the late 80's when they thought the must haves included a mechanical fan, electric fan & an oil cooler!

[roblightbody]

I am an inveterate tightwad and I would buy a new switch.If the fan switch failed on your modern would you fit a switch on the dash?Just my jaundiced opinion,Steve..

Here here. £45 seems fine for this to me, especially in this crazy world of rapid inflation. On the bright side your mini is probably also rising nicely in value, so worth looking after and doing right by it.

I've recently bought one of these too and am looking forward to getting it fitted to tidy up the wiring in my engine bay. It wasn't available a few years ago when my old one failed, so I've got a messy workaround in place just now.

Parts like this only apply to a small number of minis, so are made and sell in small numbers, hence a higher price than the equivalent part for a new fiesta...

Edited by roblightbody, 23 March 2022 - 08:46 AM.

[Cooperman]

On my 1990 Cooper I had the automatic fan switch fail and i have fitted a manual switch with a red warning light. The aux fan is very rarely needed and if the temp starts to go up, simply switch on the aux fan and it will stay cool. 

The automatic switches are not known for their reliability.

I run the power to the fan via a relay, but that is very simple.

[Steam]

if it were mine I would remove the Aux fan altogether, the additional air flow through the rad will negate the need for the Aux fan anyway. Win Win.

[Cooperman]

if it were mine I would remove the Aux fan altogether, the additional air flow through the rad will negate the need for the Aux fan anyway. Win Win.

 

In very hot weather and stationary traffic the temp can still go up, especially if the engine is modified. My 'S' will overheat in traffic, even with a 6-blade export fan and I have to use an aux fan to keep it under control. I switch it manually.

[Aria Aradhea]

On JDM cars (at least the two I owned) the aux fan switch were put on the bottom hose by putting a T-pipe and used a switch from an 80s Honda Civic (I believe the Rover 200 also use the same switch). More reliable than the Rover's radiator mounted switch and much less expensive than the thermostat housing mounted RSP/Mainstream Cooper switch.

[The Old Bailey]

I’m coming to the final stages of my Mainstream restoration, I’ve replaced the fan switch/sender on the thermostat but can’t figure out where the 2 wires with bullet connectors go to…

 

anyone got any pictures of the engine bay or where they connect to?

 

thanks