Rpm Whine
#1
Posted 19 March 2022 - 09:23 PM
Where to start troubleshooting?
Is it normal practise to isolate amp chassis from car body? I've got it mounted to boot firewall with machine screws so it will be grounded at the four screws.
#2
Posted 20 March 2022 - 02:09 AM
Most likely from the Alternator. Temporarily disconnect it to be sure.
First check all the connections to it are tight and also the Earths. Check your Battery connections too.
It could be a sign that your battery is on the way out. I know my car does this and within a couple of months of it starting to do it, the battery dies.
If everything is OK then look at fitting a suppressor to the Alternator. Sometimes a basic capacitor on it's output is all they need but sometimes, they need something a bit more heavy duty.
#3
Posted 20 March 2022 - 03:26 AM
#4
Posted 21 March 2022 - 04:38 PM
I've never earthed any amp to the car body in that way, the amp has a dedicated earth terminal and that should be connected obviously or it won't even turn on.. but my amps are usually screwed to a wooden sub box and even then I put little wooden 'feet' under each point to space it away from the surface a bit and let air flow behind. (for that reason alone it's worth putting some spacers under the fixing points, amps get hot) just 4 bits of wood the size of a matchbox will do
that's not to say it is the reason for the humming but it doesn't cost anything to try taking it off the metalwork
Edited by stuart bowes, 21 March 2022 - 04:40 PM.
#5
Posted 22 March 2022 - 11:53 PM
OK, amp now mounted on wood...and whine is still there
Always present if head unit is turned on, doesn't change level with volume knob. Also noted a rapid clicking sound as soon as I go ign on, not yet started, shuts off with my electric fuel pump shut off switch. So clicking from fuel pump electrical noise affecting amp. Ign/alt e-noise also getting through.
None of this happened with previous amp in same location...but different brand (Planet Audio, Class A or B I believe, vs now a Cerwin Vega Class D).
So looks like I now need to learn about noise filtering setups. Any suggestions?
#6
Posted 23 March 2022 - 04:08 PM
are you using all the same power leads and same sound signal wire and everything else exactly the same, except literally just the amp has been swapped?
i.e should we be able to rule out a wiring issue.
for example I know that signal wire (phono cables) should be run as far away from power leads as possible because you can get a hum from that similar to the way an induction loop works (or that is my admitedly limited undertanding of the reason which may be wrong... but the fact remains it does happen)
Edited by stuart bowes, 23 March 2022 - 04:10 PM.
#7
Posted 23 March 2022 - 05:43 PM
Where is the engine to chassis ground point? I'll try to inspect and clean that if easy to reach.
#8
Posted 23 March 2022 - 09:46 PM
#9
Posted 23 March 2022 - 11:44 PM
Hi,could it be just a faulty noise suppressor on the head unit wiring.
AFAIK, there is no noise suppressor on power lines into HU.
#10
Posted 25 March 2022 - 01:57 PM
you could try sticking a ferrite core on the power lines to the head unit and amp?
https://www.amazon.c...,aps,77&sr=8-12
usually they give them away with dashcam wiring kits to stop interference causing fuzzy picture
or pop back to that car audio place you went to before and ask them if they can think of anything to try or ways to test where exactly it's coming from
Edited by stuart bowes, 25 March 2022 - 01:58 PM.
#11
Posted 27 March 2022 - 01:44 AM
Fixed! Just did this:
Grounds out the RCA outer contact by wrapping with copper wire around the radio RCA out jack, slipping the rca cable into place to hold, then attached free wire end to a good ground on the m=etal of the radio body.
Fully killed the horrible fuel-pump clicking and rpm whine on my car.
Could be a poor ground elsewhere that created the problem but have not located that (yet).
Edited by Tornado99, 27 March 2022 - 01:47 AM.
#12
Posted 27 March 2022 - 07:12 AM
These should be separate... split them up... see how you go..
Link added. See step 6..
https://www.wikihow....stall-a-Car-Amp
Edited by bpirie1000, 27 March 2022 - 07:19 AM.
#13
Posted 27 March 2022 - 08:23 AM
#14
Posted 27 March 2022 - 04:49 PM
pre-amp and speaker wiring run left side to boot, blue power on signal line runs right side to boot.Did you run the rca leads and the remote feed for starting the amp down the same place?
These should be separate... split them up... see how you go..
Link added. See step 6..
https://www.wikihow....stall-a-Car-Amp
Again, all was fine previous amp and no wiring was changed when new amp installed. Must be some design differences making new setup more prone to getting this interference noise. So glad the grounding of RCAs solve it easily.
#15
Posted 28 March 2022 - 11:56 AM
I would lean towards agreeing with sonscar to be honest, assuming the wiring is unchanged and hasn't suffered some sort of damage in the mean time which is causing a fault
still if the adding of earthing has cured the issue then thumbs up, enjoy your tunes and move on :)
glad you found a cure
interested to see the amp spec if you can stick a link on here at some point, just purely out of curiosity
Edited by stuart bowes, 28 March 2022 - 11:58 AM.
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