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Seam Covers - Best Method For Applying After Painting


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#1 one60

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Posted 02 March 2022 - 07:50 AM

Hello,  I recently acquired a well restored MK2. However the owner did not fit seam covers following the paint (Old English White) and finish work.  Would appreciate the forum's wisdom and experience here...

 

  1. What is the recommended method for finishing and applying?
  2. Which vendors offer the best made one?
  3. Are the clips necessary? I've read some have adhered them with modern adhesives rather than using the stainless clips.
  4. Do flexible / paintable covers exist?

 

 



#2 sonikk4

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Posted 02 March 2022 - 04:47 PM

The best fitting are Heritage.

Mine I ensured they were epoxy primed, top coated and a liberal dose of a wax based product of your choice ( i used Dinitrol) coated inside.

I then used brand new stainless steel clips again once fitted liberally coated with paint then more Dinitrol. The last inch at the top I used an Aviation based sealant to help prevent moisture ingress.

Prior to painting these, I had to gently massage them to get the best fit.

Yes you could use a modern adhesive providing it does not react with the paintwork, but once on you will struggle to remove them again if needed to.

#3 slidehammer

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Posted 02 March 2022 - 05:41 PM

I used heritage ones and was disappointed with the fit. I should have dry fitted them ahead of spraying them, but we live and learn. I use stainless clips with a good coating of cavity wax on the inner (I used Rustbuster brand) but there are lots of good ones out there.



#4 CBJ805T

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Posted 03 March 2022 - 12:15 PM

Sorry to high-Jack, but do you always fit these after applying top coat to the shell? how do you avoid damaging the top coat on the shell or seam cover when fitting the clips or covers themselves ? From memory, when I removed them from my shell I thought the seams revealed were not painted.  

 

thanks as always

 

Chris 



#5 one60

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Posted 03 March 2022 - 12:19 PM

Sorry to high-Jack, but do you always fit these after applying top coat to the shell? how do you avoid damaging the top coat on the shell or seam cover when fitting the clips or covers themselves ? From memory, when I removed them from my shell I thought the seams revealed were not painted.  

 

thanks as always

 

Chris 

 

good point! I am concerned that the clips alone will damage the existing paint but my vehicle is past the point of no return, sadly. Hence, my question regarding flexible/non- metal options



#6 sonscar

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Posted 03 March 2022 - 12:46 PM

How about dry fit the covers,fit the clips and then repaint the seams?I removed mine and the replacements were poor so they never went back on.I used plastic edging trim to replace them(tight and fast?).Not original but not rusty.When I sell the buyer can have a bag of stainless clips and a set of poorly fitting trims as a present.Steve..



#7 Cooperman

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Posted 06 March 2022 - 11:51 AM

I never use the clips as they are rust-traps.

You can use a good quality clear RTV sealant/adhesive so long as you wipe off the excess immediatley after fitting. Do a 'trial fit first'.

The sealant/adhesive not only holds the strip firmly in place, it prevents any water getting between the strips and the A-post flange.

These modern adhesives simply didn't exist when the Mini was designed in 1957 - 8.

Another tip is to use a 'jointing compound' between bolted together surfaces. In aviation this is always done and it is a good idea with classic cars. I use bathroom sealer and always wipe off the excess around the edges. Typical areas are the sub-frame to body mountings, spotlight brackets, bumper to flange area, door hinges, boot hinges, fuel tank straps, etc. 



#8 MikeRotherham

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Posted 07 March 2022 - 08:11 AM

I never use the clips as they are rust-traps.

You can use a good quality clear RTV sealant/adhesive so long as you wipe off the excess immediatley after fitting. Do a 'trial fit first'.

The sealant/adhesive not only holds the strip firmly in place, it prevents any water getting between the strips and the A-post flange.

These modern adhesives simply didn't exist when the Mini was designed in 1957 - 8.

Another tip is to use a 'jointing compound' between bolted together surfaces. In aviation this is always done and it is a good idea with classic cars. I use bathroom sealer and always wipe off the excess around the edges. Typical areas are the sub-frame to body mountings, spotlight brackets, bumper to flange area, door hinges, boot hinges, fuel tank straps, etc. 

Can you give the brand of bathroom sealer you use? I would imagine it doesn't contain silicone.
 



#9 Hpal

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Posted 07 March 2022 - 10:58 AM

I never use the clips as they are rust-traps.

 

I'm doing a MK3 mini in Australia at the moment and I'm at the seam cover stage. Not far off priming the body. So I was thinking I should prime the body, brush the old seam covers up and prime them. Topcoat inside seam covers and on seams (Needed??) Not use the clip but use Sikaflex 291 marine sealant along the whole seam cover or just at a few spots along the cover enough to hold it in place (thoughts?). If sealed all along then they would be hard to take off, but they wouldn't have a chance to rust if sealed properly. If just a few places glued on then it's no different to having clips really, then I'd probably topcoat the whole car, and paint the seams separately then glue them on...



#10 Cooperman

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Posted 08 March 2022 - 03:47 PM

I just fitted a new pair of capping strips to my black Cooper and I used Tiger Seal along the full length. Then I wiped back the surplus with white spirit and it is fine. There will be no moisture getting in - ever.

For jointing compound I just use a cheap bathroom sealer. It is only to keep any moisture getting in between mating surfaces. On aeroplanes they use a jointing compound known as 'Duralac'. it is waterproof and goes off into a semi-solid material after application. I used to be able to get this free when I worked in the aerospace industry, but that was a long time ago.



#11 SolarB

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Posted 25 March 2022 - 12:18 PM

I put mine on with body filler over the primer and before all further painting, the theory being that they never need to come off and they are now 100% sealed from the elements.

It worked, but cutting and polishing right up to the seam covers proved to be difficult without rubbing through the paint on the body side edges of the covers.

 

Car is coming apart for a major overhaul and re-spray soon, next time they will go on with adhesive after all the painting and cutting. The only problem with this is that I now have to remove them, I suspect they will not survive the operation.



#12 bpirie1000

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Posted 27 March 2022 - 07:43 AM

Retainer clip first... then paint( the seam area).. then add alittle rust preventative then attach the trim push on. Then paint the rest of the car.

Like everything on a mini more than one way to deal with it..

Countries with less rust issues do it differently. Garages do it differently.. only go with my experiences...

#13 evansisgreat

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Posted 14 April 2022 - 01:38 PM

I'd been thinking about this for my resto and I'd thought about using 3 or 4 grub screws to keep the seam strips on, but Cooperman's ideas of using adhesives seems much better. I'd quite like try using RTV rather than Tigerseal as I think I could get them back off if it was ever needed, which is why I was thinking about the grub screws.



#14 Ben_O

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Posted 14 April 2022 - 02:27 PM

My method.

 

Prepare car for paint

 

Epoxy prime the seams and insides of the seam trims

 

fit to car with clips and a small amount of adhesive sealant (not sikaflex)

 

Seal the tops and bottoms of the trims to the body as per factory, again using adhesive sealant (not sikaflex)

 

Paint car

 

When it comes to machine polishing, I just stick 2 layers of masking tape to the seams to protect from the polishing pad.

 

This method is best in my opinion as the epoxy protects against corrosion, the seam trims can be sealed to the gutters as per factory before paint and the small amount of adhesive sealant will allow the trims to be removed in future if needs be but I really cannot see a reason to ever need to remove them.

 

As for fitting them after paint, just do the same method making sure you touch in and bare areas that the serrated clips might have caused when fitting them before clipping the seam trim on.

I suppose you could even seal the trims top and bottom and then blob a bit of paint over the sealer once it's cured



#15 Hpal

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Posted 25 May 2022 - 10:27 PM

I've got them on my car now finally. I ended up getting the cover strips sand blasted, then I etch primed and 2k primed. I trial fitted them to see how they'd sit and which bits stuck out and on these parts I used either a clamp or a clip in the cover to hold it to the body. I put some seam sealer in blobs along the cover strip and fixed it on, wiping seal sealer along the whole length to seal it up. Looks a good job now and pretty happy with it.


Edited by Hpal, 25 May 2022 - 10:28 PM.





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