396 replies to this topic

[stuart bowes]

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Edited by stuart bowes, 11 April 2023 - 02:03 PM.

[stuart bowes]

quick 3d print, replacement part for back part of key lock

 

pen playing the part of the lock lever, pretty simple and therefore very little to go wrong

 

angles modelled in a CAD assembly first so should be ok, lever will need an extension adding and possibly a little adjustment to work perfectly

 

tempted to add springs in both directions to center the key after each use for easier removal.. not sure if necessary and possibly just an added complication that can go wrong

 

may cut a metal plate and bond to the back side to stop any deformation in hot conditions which is a weakness of 3d printed items

 

Edited by stuart bowes, 21 July 2022 - 11:20 PM.

[Spherix]

I'd paint it yellow while you're at it

Looks like you're making good progress!

[stuart bowes]

haha the thought did cross my mind

 

didn't actually get around to testing it by the time print had finished it was pizza time

Edited by stuart bowes, 22 July 2022 - 08:43 AM.

[stuart bowes]

well that didnt work 

 

the idea was nice but I couldn't extend the lock latch lever bit and still get it through the hole in the side of the door..

 

gone back to the original type with linkage rod but the tab part needs to stick out to the side instead of down so I still need to print one

 

 

update: this works perfectly.  but I will add a second linkage hole at the red dot for the addition of central locking

 

passenger door will not have a lock barrel, so actuator would link directly to the lock mech

Edited by stuart bowes, 23 July 2022 - 11:13 AM.

[stuart bowes]

day off work today and the missus has taken the kids to Wales for the week

 

outer sill now on:

 

 

 

before fitting, sprayed the edges where welds go with weld-through primer, then when dry masked that off and painted the rest with underseal containing waxoyl.  was half expecting smoke when welding but none at all which was nice.  will also spray waxoyl in there later after all painted etc

 

plug welded along the edge of the step and the bottom of the flitch panel, went on nice and easy, left the underside free for now to allow a bit more flexibility when fitting the rear quarter

Edited by stuart bowes, 27 July 2022 - 09:05 PM.

[stuart bowes]

time to remove the last of the A panel (wasn't ready to leave the wing free to bend before this point)

 

 

cleaned back to shiny metal and a coating of kurust:

 

 

In removing the remains of a grotty closing panel I did find a hole hiding at the top of the flitch panel which I ground back to find solid edges and welded a patch into.. not the easiest of locations but isn't that always the way... a bit of scuttle surgery for access.  it's not beautiful but it won't be seen, I put more effort in on the inside

 

 

have ordered a repair section for the end of the scuttle and a new closing panel obviously, mean time everything is now cleaned up around all the edges and ready for welding, will leave the A panel off for easy access while I finish that off

Edited by stuart bowes, 28 July 2022 - 07:47 PM.

[stuart bowes]

scuttle reconstruction surgery complete, with a teeny skim of cosmetics to help out a bit

 

as with other bits so far this is only the first go-over - obviously when it comes to painting there will be a higher level of attention paid during preparation

 

panel gap not ideal but that's how it was when I moved in, can't do much about that unless wing is replaced which is still being debated

 

 

next up, weld in the closing panel (awkward), fit the A panel (easy) and then flip it round and start on the other side

Edited by stuart bowes, 29 July 2022 - 08:22 PM.

[stuart bowes]

closing panel fitted (underseal with waxoyl in painted above and on top side, tacked in 6 places around the edges) definitely not going anywhere although admittedly I would have preferred to have plug welded all round it... just too awkward for access and didn't seem necessary to be honest

 

painted on the lower side as well although that will get another going over later, just made sure I got right into all the corners 

 

A-panel fettled and fitted, edge folded to A pillar, undersealed / waxoyled the inside edges there as well to give a decent bit of future-proofing

 

grinding to be done another time

 

Edited by stuart bowes, 02 August 2022 - 09:05 PM.

[colinf1]

I agree with the grinding to be done another time! Can usually end up spending more time getting bogged down with grinding, makes you feel like your not making any progress!

Keep at it!

[sonscar]

Don't forget the little reinforcement over the a panel/wing join,Steve..

[stuart bowes]

Don't forget the little reinforcement over the a panel/wing join,Steve..

 

Ah now I was going to ask about this.. the little square hole on the edge was previously 'repaired' (i thought 'bodged' to be honest) from behind with a little 90deg folded piece of steel welded from behind.  is that normal then

 

obviously I wouldn't buy one I have plenty of spare sheet metal more than enough to make that 

[sonscar]

Yes that is it to reinforce the joint,Steve..

[stuart bowes]

fair do's I will do that then, it's only a 20min job

 

cheers

Edited by stuart bowes, 03 August 2022 - 10:12 AM.

[stuart bowes]

Span car around and now working on near side

 

Outer sill off and tidying up mess underneath, not as bad as off side

 

 

have cut out the rusy parts already

 

 

I've cut off the rear subframe lower captive nut again, I could see straight away it was corroded (top one fine as it was on the other side) and this way the added bonus is I can clean up behind it

 

some work to do here before welding in the patches and putting the new sill on.  probably gonna do A panel this side as well after seeing the grot that was hiding underneath the other side, even though actually it looks ok, but why do half a job.  It's probably the easiest panel to fit and it's under £30