14 replies to this topic

[Kombi]

Does anyone have higher resolution image of the dimensioned drawing for the front sub-frame Jack Block? I've got this one and it's really hard to make out what some of the dimension are actually pointing to.

 

 4f329be8fe2be0d80e073b92202d3b600ed9c0c4.jpg   48.56K   2 downloads

 

Many thanks!

[MikeRotherham]

This one is better but still could be clearer.

 

https://www.theminif...recommendation/

 

There's some images here from Facebook that may be of use to you:

 

https://www.facebook...320312714679410

Edited by MikeRotherham, 24 January 2022 - 08:06 AM.

[Spider]

If the original BMC Timber Block is what you'd like, then sure, go for it, but I'd like to pass on a word of care and caution in using it since it's only sitting on top of your jack.

There was a recent thread started by croc7 around jacking the Mini. This is an adaptor I made not long ago;-

 

 

The original jacking base on the Jack is removed (it slips in / out on a pin on my jack) and then this adaptor it fitted in and 'pinned' in place, in that while it can't slip off, it can still spin.

It fits the front subframe, under the 'pads' just under the lower control arms. It also works on the rear subframe, on the front rail or the back rail of it.

Now I have it, I wounder why it took me so long to make it and I wouldn't be without it now.

[floormanager]

I had this photo too if it helps

 Jack block.jpg   50.39K   0 downloads

[E23TFD]

If the original BMC Timber Block is what you'd like, then sure, go for it, but I'd like to pass on a word of care and caution in using it since it's only sitting on top of your jack.

There was a recent thread started by croc7 around jacking the Mini. This is an adaptor I made not long ago;-



The original jacking base on the Jack is removed (it slips in / out on a pin on my jack) and then this adaptor it fitted in and 'pinned' in place, in that while it can't slip off, it can still spin.

It fits the front subframe, under the 'pads' just under the lower control arms. It also works on the rear subframe, on the front rail or the back rail of it.

Now I have it, I wounder why it took me so long to make it and I wouldn't be without it now.

.

That makes perfect sense and bolting to the Jack is a good idea, simple but as you say sometimes you just don’t see it.

What box section have you used?

[nicklouse]

 

If the original BMC Timber Block is what you'd like, then sure, go for it, but I'd like to pass on a word of care and caution in using it since it's only sitting on top of your jack.

There was a recent thread started by croc7 around jacking the Mini. This is an adaptor I made not long ago;-



The original jacking base on the Jack is removed (it slips in / out on a pin on my jack) and then this adaptor it fitted in and 'pinned' in place, in that while it can't slip off, it can still spin.

It fits the front subframe, under the 'pads' just under the lower control arms. It also works on the rear subframe, on the front rail or the back rail of it.

Now I have it, I wounder why it took me so long to make it and I wouldn't be without it now.

.

That makes perfect sense and bolting to the Jack is a good idea, simple but as you say sometimes you just don’t see it.

What box section have you used?

 

I did something similar for use on the rear. Might do something for the front as well.

 

[Kombi]

All very good ideas and I appreciate the help from you all.

 

I do like the idea of the Steel one, but I figured for basic lifting of the front end in the garage the old design would probably work well.

 

I'm going a little further out there and am actually going to print the top portion of the block using PETG on my 3D Printer then bolting that to a scrap of wood. This is for science mind as I'm curious 1) how well it will work, 2) how well will the plastic hold up, and 3) how scary it is.

[Spider]

What box section have you used?

 

It was some scrap I had, I think it's 75 x 5 x 3 or 4 mm in the wall.

Where the Pin is, I drilled that right through with (I think) a 12 mm drill, in the drill press to keep it square, then opened up just the bottom to 20 mm for the Pin. The Pin passes through the bottom and is only welded on top (as you can see).
 

[stuart bowes]

All very good ideas and I appreciate the help from you all.

 

I do like the idea of the Steel one, but I figured for basic lifting of the front end in the garage the old design would probably work well.

 

I'm going a little further out there and am actually going to print the top portion of the block using PETG on my 3D Printer then bolting that to a scrap of wood. This is for science mind as I'm curious 1) how well it will work, 2) how well will the plastic hold up, and 3) how scary it is.

 

I only use my 3d printer for mockups, and models where strength is not an issue, even on RC cars the parts snap and cause accidents.

 

I shudder to think what might happen if you put anything like a real car weight on there

 

so far I've just used a big thick lump of timber (4" square ish) a bit like the box section idea above, but with both ends on a tie rod bracket each, and the jack under the middle.  obviously jack stands if you're getting under

Edited by stuart bowes, 25 January 2022 - 01:01 AM.

[Kombi]

PETG is quite strong, and we're just talking about putting under compression. So I'm figuring I'll print it, have four perimeters with a 50%+ infill. If it crushes while lifting I'll have my answer, but I doubt it will.

[xrocketengineer]

A friend of mine got this locally but the center pin on the beam would not fit my Jack.  Additionally, the two lifting pads were two far apart at the narrowest setting for the front subframe. But if I needed a new jack, this would be the way to go by shortening the sliding pieces a bit.  

Edited by xrocketengineer, 25 January 2022 - 05:05 PM.

[stuart bowes]

PETG is quite strong, and we're just talking about putting under compression. So I'm figuring I'll print it, have four perimeters with a 50%+ infill. If it crushes while lifting I'll have my answer, but I doubt it will.

 

well I guess there's only one way to find out isn't there, quite strong is one thing, but lifting the weight of an engine let alone the car body?  I would be interested to know the result of that 

[Spider]

 

PETG is quite strong, and we're just talking about putting under compression. So I'm figuring I'll print it, have four perimeters with a 50%+ infill. If it crushes while lifting I'll have my answer, but I doubt it will.

 

well I guess there's only one way to find out isn't there, quite strong is one thing, but lifting the weight of an engine let alone the car body?  I would be interested to know the result of that 

 

 

Sorry, a little off topic, but since 3D printing has come up,,,,,,I was sent a clip the other day of a bloke who made some press tools by 3D printing in some type of plastic. He did reinforce them on the back with a resin. He did a few pressings with them, in sheet steels and in stainless. It was very impressive.



All the same, I would use caution lifting anything that has been printed.

 

[stuart bowes]

that is quite impressive but he's effectively using 100% infill by filling the gaps in the lower layers with resin which greatly affects the strength

 

I did read once about people 'annealing' the print by baking it at certain temperatures after the print, but then you have to work out the amount of expansion and allow for that in the initial design, which was way too much of an unknown factor for the precise parts I was building.. maybe on this scale for something like this which matters a bit less it could work

 

but then you've got to fit it inside your oven which might be a bit of a struggle..  and it's gonna be a long print you don't want to just ruin it afterwards

 

for me it's horses for courses, the 3d printer has it's benefits, the CNC mill has it's benefits, the vacuum former can be a quick easy solution too sometimes..  but sometimes just cutting a lump of wood is the fastest most effective and strongest method 

 

 

having said that though 'for science / to find out' is always a good cause so why not ;)  let us all know

Edited by stuart bowes, 25 January 2022 - 09:38 AM.

[E23TFD]

Company I work for we produce 3DP resins which are for production parts and also companies printing with carbon fibre and also metal printing.  The market is gaining but as we all know this is not for home printing capabilities.