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My Mini Has Arrived! So, How Did I Do? Rust Analysis, Please.


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#1 VadGTI

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Posted 04 December 2021 - 02:23 AM

Some of you may remember this thread: https://www.theminif...d-is-this-rust/

 

As explained in that thread, I ended up buying the Mini.  It arrived in the US 3 weeks later and cleared customs last week.  This morning, a friend (who has a TWIC card, required by the Department of Homeland Security to enter port property) and I went to pick it up at the Port of Los Angeles.

 

We meandered through the massive port (the largest port in the US) until reaching a guard shack at the correct lot.  We were directed to the used Japanese import section of the port storage lot (the other sections are reserved for new OEM vehicles imported from Japan), where lots of various JDM imports were parked.  Even from the guard shack, I could see the Mini poking its happy little pug-face out from the crowd.

 

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Enhance... Enhance...

 

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We were cleared and went to the car.  Around it was everything from Daihatsu Midget to Veilside Supras to Skyline GT-Rs to Japanese campers and off-roaders.

 

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The car started immediately, despite sitting for weeks on a ship and another two weeks at the port.  

 

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We went to grab some breakfast at a nearby marina.

 

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I parked at the marina and got out.  Unfortunately, I was so excited about this first drive that I forgot to set the parking brake and the car slowly began rolling toward the ocean.  I almost sunk my own battleship 10 minutes into ownership!

 

This was almost its watery grave:

 

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The car drives like a go-kart.  It's... Amazing.  Very different from my Mk7.5 Golf GTI and even my 993 Porsche 911... Obviously :P.

 

It's not without its flaws, however.  I discovered that the passenger side window regulator barely works.  There are lots of wires and relays just kinda hanging under the dash.  Unfortunately the seller's family member had a stroke two days before the car was to ship off, and he was unable to finalize preparations.  In fact, the car arrived with his tools, his money (500 Yen!) and his cigarette butts (eeew!).  He apologized, of course.  

 

Also, the best inspection I could do at the time was via Zoom and photographs as his village was hundreds of miles from my Japanese friend's place.  The Zoom inspection and photos obviously failed to provide me with sufficient info for a correct assessment about rust.  

 

First, the good:  All but one of the posters in my linked thread thought the car had oversills hiding rust.  It turns out that the sills are OEM, with the vent holes.  No rust at all underneath.  

 

Now for the not so good:  There is more surface rust than expected, especially in the area of the front bumper.  Here's what I've spotted so far:

 

Under the rear bumper, a couple of spots that I previously knew about.  The previous owner was a salt-water fisherman and had a habit of resting his fishing poles against the rear of the car (per many, many Instagram pics of this).

 

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The buckle basically looks like it's spent 3 years under water:

 

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I thought the roof gutter was 100% free of rust, but I found this spot:

 

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I knew about the fender rust, but not about the rust near the mirror/decorative strip:

 

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The hood (bonnet to you guys) has a small break/rusty area on one of its sides:

 

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The front buckle is also completely rusty.

 

 

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Finally, this part (behind the front bumper) is very bubbly:

 

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Also, there is a kick to the firewall when the motor lurches (downshifts or not-so-smooth shifts).  A mini expert I talked to thought it was the engine steady, but the seller said he changed it 10 years (and 3,000 miles) ago, but that he used very hard bushings.  He tried to get rid of the knock by changing out the steering box, downpipe and many other components, but the knock was always there, so he put it down to the solid bushings.  I'm going to investigate further this weekend.


So, Mini Forum.... Thoughts?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



#2 Mito

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Posted 04 December 2021 - 07:19 AM

I wouldn't trust what the seller has said and would check the top and bottom engine steadies bushes and ensure the brackets aren't cracked.

Also check the engine mounts.

It looks like it's in pretty good shape. Happy mini'ing

#3 IronmanG

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Posted 04 December 2021 - 07:42 AM

I really like that. I do like contrasting colours. Nice

#4 Maccmike8

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Posted 04 December 2021 - 09:34 AM

How exciting.



#5 brownspeed

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Posted 04 December 2021 - 12:44 PM

love it!



#6 sonikk4

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Posted 04 December 2021 - 12:48 PM

Drive it, enjoy it.

 

As for the bits of rust to be honest, i would worry about it later. You will have some work to do without doubt but use it, have fun then start compiling a list of jobs you can do as a project when time and money allows.



#7 mab01uk

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Posted 04 December 2021 - 04:56 PM

As said enjoy driving the Mini for a while, then if you still love it start looking into sorting out the various bits of rust. By then you should also be able to decide whether to do local paint repairs to give a quick tidy up job for the short term, or whether you want to dig deeper and invest more time, money and effort into making it a mint example, perhaps involving some panel repair work and a full paint job.


Edited by mab01uk, 04 December 2021 - 04:57 PM.


#8 MikeRotherham

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Posted 04 December 2021 - 05:09 PM

Thanks for showing us all the images and glimpse into how things are done else where in the world.

 

Very interesting.



#9 floormanager

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Posted 04 December 2021 - 05:33 PM

Nice to see the steering wheel is on the right (and correct) side :mrcool:



#10 some1158

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Posted 04 December 2021 - 05:52 PM

It might be worth investing in some good cavity wax and squirting it into as many seams and crevices as you can, to keep things ok until you want to do anything more major. Various opinions on here as to what's best but I like Bilt Hamber Dynax S50. 



#11 VadGTI

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Posted 04 December 2021 - 05:53 PM

Nice to see the steering wheel is on the right (and correct) side :mrcool:


Indeed. Authentic. However, it makes it slightly more difficult to operate in my environment. For example, leaving the office underground car park yesterday, I had to get out of the car and run around to the passenger side to slide my card and open the gate :D. Then again, I used to own a RHD Skyline, so this isn't new to me :D.

For anyone curious, here are the specs via Google Translate from the seller's for sale ad.

1994 Rover Mini Mark I specification



Actual running 

normal meter 108300km + engine overhaul, 3000km after meter replacement



About 10 years ago, I overhauled and customized the engine, brakes, and suspension, and rode several times a month.



Before bidding, please check the current car if possible.

I just had a car inspection in April.





Engine overhauled

(10 years ago, less than 3000 running after overhaul)

Air conditioner has been repaired by replacing the condenser.



Cylinder head

high lift roller rocker 1: 1.5

0.5mm Surface grinding, valve seat, guide replacement

Intake, exhaust Big valve replacement

Dual valve spring replacement



Engine

piston ring replacement

Each part seal, head gasket replacement

High capacity oil pump

Core increase Radiator New

radiator hose Complete set New

water pump New

heater core New



Clutch 

disc, pressure plate replacement with

new master replacement with new

flywheel lightweight



exhaust

down pipe replacement with new (June 2021), catalyzer, dual center muffler



suspension

high-low kit, coil spring, external shock, front and rear negative can

foil 10 inch speed Star mark II





brake

master cylinder new

front 10 inches disc, 10 inches KAD4 pot calipers, mesh hose



rear aluminum fin drum master exchange

master cylinder new





exterior

front, rear, mark I specification

rally look (light cover, fog)

racing mosquito wiper

front spoiler





interior

Black leather, driver's seat, bride full bucket passenger seat, cobra low back bucket (partially torn seat)

Custom meter

Quick shift

Motolita steering

3 points Roll bar


Edited by VadGTI, 04 December 2021 - 05:54 PM.


#12 VadGTI

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Posted 04 December 2021 - 05:56 PM

It might be worth investing in some good cavity wax and squirting it into as many seams and crevices as you can, to keep things ok until you want to do anything more major. Various opinions on here as to what's best but I like Bilt Hamber Dynax S50.



The car will now live in Los Angeles, parked indoors, with weekend use split between it and my 911. It won't see very much (if any rain), so the rust should hopefully not progress.

#13 mini-mad-mark

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Posted 04 December 2021 - 06:06 PM

I wouldn't trust what the seller has said and would check the top and bottom engine steadies bushes and ensure the brackets aren't cracked.

Also check the engine mounts.

It looks like it's in pretty good shape. Happy mini'ing

Would also check the rear mounts on the front subframe - they split and knock - front mounts split also but you wouldn't hear/feel it through the bulkhead/firewall 



#14 some1158

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Posted 04 December 2021 - 06:29 PM

 

It might be worth investing in some good cavity wax and squirting it into as many seams and crevices as you can, to keep things ok until you want to do anything more major. Various opinions on here as to what's best but I like Bilt Hamber Dynax S50.



The car will now live in Los Angeles, parked indoors, with weekend use split between it and my 911. It won't see very much (if any rain), so the rust should hopefully not progress.

 

 

Fair enough!  Though prevention is better than cure...



#15 Ethel

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Posted 04 December 2021 - 06:48 PM

At least it hasn't got wing mirrors - seems to be a Japanese obsession I just don't get. It's obviously a later car dressed up to look retro, as I'm sure you already knew. It will explain the rust on the roof gutter though, it's had a bit welded in to fill a gap that was covered by trim. If the bonnet wasn't swapped, the lip for the later grille surround will have been removed too. The rest looks fairly superficial, the wing top join to the windscreen scuttle being the most concern. Minis tend to rot from where they grit blast themselves from underneath, so have a good poke at it from inside the wheel arch. The heater ducting being in the way doesn't help. 






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