Edited by mvahora, 04 December 2021 - 09:58 AM.
Electronic Ignition Testing
#16
Posted 04 December 2021 - 09:56 AM
#17
Posted 04 December 2021 - 11:32 AM
Is there anyway i could check just the module alone to be certain?
Yes it is in the info I have sent.
#18
Posted 07 December 2021 - 09:47 AM
Is there anyway i could check just the module alone to be certain?
Yes it is in the info I have sent.
Okay im a bit confused of what the description in the manual says. The test is for a 59 DM4 dizzy. would it still apply to a 43D?
I get to point 4 where is says "is the voltage at the coil "-" terminal more than 2volts?" mine is at about 12.89volts (the same as the battery) so it then says if yes then "Disconnect the wiring connector between distributor and ignition amplifier and proceed to test 7" I'm not sure what it means by disconnect the wiring connector between dizzy and ignition amplifier. is the ignition amplifier the electronic ignition module? if so how would i disconnect it from the dizzy when their isn't a connection to begin with. bit confused here. (attached is the test method)
Attached Files
Edited by mvahora, 07 December 2021 - 09:48 AM.
#19
Posted 07 December 2021 - 02:17 PM
You really need to find a trouble-shooting guide for the Luminition kit.
#20
Posted 10 December 2021 - 05:01 AM
A 59DM4 is an electronic distributor as standard (think it is also an A+ dizzy). The 43D is not and would use normal points so won't have an amplifier. The 59/65 tests won't all apply to your 25 and 43.
You really need to find a trouble-shooting guide for the Luminition kit.
Alright, so I managed to find the following manual for the module (attached).
Attached Files
Edited by mvahora, 12 December 2021 - 03:26 AM.
#21
Posted 12 December 2021 - 03:35 AM
A 59DM4 is an electronic distributor as standard (think it is also an A+ dizzy). The 43D is not and would use normal points so won't have an amplifier. The 59/65 tests won't all apply to your 25 and 43.
You really need to find a trouble-shooting guide for the Luminition kit.
So I hooked it up as per the testing manual for the MTK003 Magnetronic Ignition module above. I ensured to ground the spark plug as well as the coil bracket.
Everything has 12.9V. 12.9V on the battery, 12.9 at the coil positive and negative. The ignition module is getting 12.9V both on the + & - wires coming from the coil.
Following the testing instructions I connected my multimeter and began rotating the dizzy. The voltage does not fluctuate between 1V and 13V as it states in the manual. It remains at 12.9V.
Any suggestions?
Edited by mvahora, 12 December 2021 - 03:39 AM.
#22
Posted 12 December 2021 - 08:20 AM
From your description and the manual
if it stays at approx 13 v then you have either the red or black wire from the module not getting to the coil ( so check the continuity of these wires )
#23
Posted 12 December 2021 - 09:53 AM
Sounds like the trigger isn't working in the distributor. It should be "making and breaking" the voltage as you turn it to make the coil collapse and fire down the HT lead. Sounds like that module is fried ..So I hooked it up as per the testing manual for the MTK003 Magnetronic Ignition module above. I ensured to ground the spark plug as well as the coil bracket.
Everything has 12.9V. 12.9V on the battery, 12.9 at the coil positive and negative. The ignition module is getting 12.9V both on the + & - wires coming from the coil.
Following the testing instructions I connected my multimeter and began rotating the dizzy. The voltage does not fluctuate between 1V and 13V as it states in the manual. It remains at 12.9V.
Any suggestions?
Edited by gazza82, 12 December 2021 - 07:09 PM.
#24
Posted 12 December 2021 - 07:12 PM
If you can get a plug to fire then you have a working test rig .. then you can swap out the components until you find the "broken" one.
#25
Posted 13 December 2021 - 12:01 AM
But before you totally write it off, have you checked the same circuit with a distributor with normal contact-breakers? You need to establish that your test rig actually works and you can't do that with with the current distrbutor as you don't actually know that is working.
If you can get a plug to fire then you have a working test rig .. then you can swap out the components until you find the "broken" one.
I only have a spare 23d dizzy which has a working electronic ignition in it. I know 100% that the 23d is working as it was taken off a mini that was running good. Perhaps ill test that one first to see if I get a spark?
Edited by mvahora, 13 December 2021 - 12:02 AM.
#26
Posted 13 December 2021 - 08:47 AM
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