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Electronic Mini Speedometer - Ignition Light Wiring Question

Started by jedduh01 , Oct 13 2021 02:56 AM

Best Answer jedduh01 , 14 October 2021 - 07:20 PM

I can't help with any more info than above on wiring, but would like to know if the speedo was a recent purchase, as these have. Been listed as out of stock on MS for over a year now.

Few Updates :+ Successes

Caerbont replied.... It is nearly as simple as mentioned above.

Gauge has Brown / Yellow wire = Ignition lamp has Brown Yellow wire too = Connect those two. The white other side of the lamp is unused.(or internal to the gauge)

That connected and worked.

This Was purchased 2 weeks ago from Minispares + 1 week for Shipment and transport to the USA.

Was in Stock = Looking now = Appears back order again! Did I just Luck out for this one?~ This actually was the 130 MPH Variant Nice to see other options out there with the simpler 90 MPH = which I would actually have preferred.

Now , upon first use .. and attempting to calibrate my speed signal to the gauge .. I was having some Strange readings + Gauge jumping around and when calibrating the engine was running it was making up its own' signal.

Remove sensor from trans = test with engine off = 1 rotation = gauge registers 1 rotation.

Engine running = errant signals sent.

Another TMF Member sent an idea... Resistor vs NON resistor Spark plugs.

I changed the car to Resistor plugs ( to get rid of the extra 'electrical' NOISE) and so far appears to have stopped the errant signal.

Video of sitiuation included.

https://photos.app.g...2hRgmhVu24w5c67

Doing final re assembly now = then off for a test drive + calibration test.

Thank you everyone for the guidance... NEW fancy speedo appears to be nice, bit of a headache.

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#16 tmsmini

One Carb Or Two?

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Posted 21 October 2021 - 07:00 PM

Just adding a couple of notes for future reference.

I got this from Digital Speedos awhile back when I bought a replacement sensor:

I checked the records and you did purchase a KOSO unit previously, the reason the KOSO probably failed is because its a five volt sender and unless you connect to the 5 volt output (pink wire) on the gauge it can fail.

The reason we swapped over to the Daytona is because it works on both 5 volts and 12 volts so it takes out any chance of using the wrong power input. I shall exchange it for a Daytona for you.

Best Wishes - Jon

I connected it to 5 volts, but still had a failure at some point.

The picture shows what happens to the mechanical end of the sensor after 5000 miles plus. The shrink tubing deteriorates with time.