11 replies to this topic

[Benito_S6]

Ok, so, I know this topic is about my bini (bmw sh*te) but as the mini2 forum is about as much use as a chocolate fireguard for getting help, was hoping I could get opinion from some in here.

Sudden problem. Clutch not disengaging fully. Very difficult/near impossible to change gear and when in first car creeps with clutch pedal all way down. It’s a 2001 cooper r50. Attached is two YouTube links to videos of slave cylinder working as what I assume correctly. Is there sufficient travel and a way to adjust? Should I try bleeding? Possible throw out bearing maybe? Any opinions appreciated. Pedal feels normal. Hoping it could be something where I don’t have to take gearbox out but any help. Fluid that can be seen is coolant, no leaks and reservoir is full. Cheers

https://youtube.com/...M?feature=share
https://youtube.com/...A?feature=share

[cal844]

Try bleeding it but I think it would be best to replace, the slave cylinder (at the throw out bearing) can give issues like you describe. Additionally it's worth making sure that the pedal is connected to the master cylinder pushrod (the pushrod can snap at the pedal).

Hope this is some help and you don't need to take the gearbox out.

If you do take the gearbox out make sure you change the oil inside the gearbox as it needs done every 35,000 to 50,000 miles

[Benito_S6]

Cheers cal as always. Surely the video I linked shows the slave is functioning fine as it can be seen moving so this means all hydraulics are working as they should? Looking more like clutch kit needs putting in.

Always happens when you need the car too with no time to fix doesn’t it!

[mab01uk]

When this happened to my 2002 R50 MINI it turned out to be the metal clutch release arm had cracked and the gearbox had to be removed to fit a new arm. The new arm was of an improved design so I think it was a weakness on earlier R50 MINI's. While it was out we fitted a new clutch assembly and I seem to remember we had to grind some metal from a casting web on the gearbox casing to clear the new arm supplied by BMW. As said make sure you also change the special gearbox oil if it is a Rover Midland 5-speed gearbox which it should be on a 2001 Cooper to extend its life.

Edited by mab01uk, 05 October 2021 - 10:35 PM.

[Benito_S6]

Ah I have watched a video earlier about the weak clutch forks of early R50s. Did you get the same symptoms mab01uk i.e clutch pedal feels normal but just can’t get gear as not disengaging. Thanks for your help. I think I’ll have to take the gearbox out and inspect as it’s going to be something inside clutch related isn’t it. Not a small job. Can’t wait to have my classic restored and back again!

[mab01uk]

Yes I got exactly those symptoms, everything visible seemed normal but unseen inside the gearbox/flywheel housing the top part of the clutch fork arm was just bending due to a fracture crack therefore not disengaging the clutch fully. Removed the gearbox expecting to find a clutch problem but clutch was fine and the release arm was cracked due to metal fatigue. We replaced the clutch assembly while all stripped down as it had done 80,000 miles but it looked ok for the mileage.

As said the new arm from BMW was a stronger design but fitted ok once a bit of extra clearance was gained by grinding a casting web back a little. Quite a big job but lots of you tube videos on what has to be removed to get the gearbox out. Sadly many R50 MINI's get scrapped now for faults like this if the owner can't do the work DIY, due to the high garage labour costs involved to replace a fairly cheap part!

The gearbox oil required is MTF 94 Manual Transmission Fluid.

 

Early MINI Rover Midland Gearbox info:-

https://www.minicoop...ost-649/page-1/

Edited by mab01uk, 06 October 2021 - 08:22 AM.

[Benito_S6]

Can’t thank you enough mab01uk. Was thinking the same with the issue being in the bell housing I’m not gonna have a clue until taking the gearbox out. As it was a sudden failure, I’m thinking it’s more likely to be the fork after hearing all the common issues with it. I’ll update this thread when I find the issue. Cheers

Edited by Benito_S6, 06 October 2021 - 11:25 AM.

[Benito_S6]

Turns out to be worn pressure plate. All sorted. Cheers

[cal844]

Turns out to be worn pressure plate. All sorted. Cheers

You'd be cheaper long term to fit the 3 piece clutch kit (friction material, pressure plate and slave cylinder (also known as a throw out bearing) whilst your in there, it'll take 10 minutes longer to change the slave cylinder once the box is out

[Benito_S6]

Exactly what I did, minus the slave cylinder as slave cylinder and throw out bearing are two different things. New friction, pressure and release bearing. Should last me till proper mini is restored so I can get rid of this German POS ;)

[Spider]

I did see this non-classic thread when it started but have now moved it here and left a link in chat.

 

Cheers

Chris

[cal844]

Exactly what I did, minus the slave cylinder as slave cylinder and throw out bearing are two different things. New friction, pressure and release bearing. Should last me till proper mini is restored so I can get rid of this German POS ;)

Glad to know my method of thought was the same! Happy to try and help with any other faults... Should the moderators have a 'Non classic mini' tech or chat area? I know some members are garage owners, I for one do ad hoc work for a couple of local guys, mainly on the big projects lol

Edited by cal844, 15 October 2021 - 09:23 PM.