6 replies to this topic

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I'm planning on replacing a torn front disc CV boot on a '91 Mainstream Cooper on Monday for the first time and will be doing it solo without anyone's "extra set of hands".

Most YouTube videos show people hammering off the CV joint after getting the hub out of the way, but the Haynes manual says to put that back on the axle you need to:


"With the help of an assistant" and "Using two small screwdrivers...compress the circlip and at the same time have your assistant firmly" hammer the CV joint back onto the axle.

As I mentioned, I'll be on my own, so I wondering how viable this is for me.

Haynes suggests just pulling on the axle about 1" and striking the lip of the inner cage of the inner pot joint to release the axle entirely. I suspect that also has a circlip, but it doesn't mention any need for three hands to put the axle back into the inner pot joint vs. the CV joint back on the axle.

What's the most common and easiest approach?

[Tornado99]

I did mine alone. I followed some of the several YouTube videos on the procedure. I recall releasing the inner pot boot clip (it was just safety wired on my car) and then the joint can be pulled out of the pot. Whole drive shaft on bench held in vise to work on outer joint release/re-install.
I recall the metal boot straps supplied were useless as they were too long to tension with the proper crimper tool. Ended up using plastic zip ties and filing down the latch lump so it cleared the hub. Safety wire could be used, but I have since purchased some nice stainless "zip" ties with a very flat latching point. These will be installed when/if the plastic ones fail, still going strong after several thousand miles.

[Cooperman]

I always do mine on my own.

Undo and slacken off the centre hub nut, but leave it on a few threads so that the threads won't be damaged when you tap it to release the shaft.

Undo the track rod end and top & bottom swivel hub ball joint nuts. Tap the centre of the hub nut to ensure the drive shaft will slide off of the hub.

Undo the clip on the inner end of the driveshaft.

Take the hub off of the top & bottom arms and support it to avoid stretching the flexible brake pipe and push the drive shaft clear of the hub.

To remove the CV  joint, push the gaiter back anlong the shaft, put the shaft vertically in a vice with the CV joint downwards and give the CV joint a smart tap with a copper-faced mallet. This will cause the CV joint to fall onto the ground, so put a piece of clean rag on the floor to prevent it getting dirty.

 

Put the new gaiter onto the shaft, turn the shaft up the other way in the vice and re-fit the CV joint, or fit the new one as appropriate. Use good quality moly grease inside the joint.

 

Next put the inner end of the shaft back into the inner joint, using new grease.

Feed the CV part of the shaft back through the hub and do everything up again.

To retain the CV boot on the joint, I use locking wire, with a plastic tie on the inner. On the inner joint I use tie wraps.

 

The whole job should take around 1 hour, or slightly more if you've never done it before.

 

You do need a 'see-saw' ball pin splitter to mke life easy

[cal844]

I use a good quality ball joint splitter made from the right materials so it doesn't break or bend after 2 hits...

Id also add that as soon as you have the pot joint end removed...(where fitted!) I'd usually mark the shaft and pot joint so you know where it's Fogo back in.... Then just unclip the inner boot from the pot, so the cage and balls come free, once the shaft is off the car I fit a disposable glove over the pot joint gaitor to stop the ball bearings going missing.

Then knock the joint off.

Just my way of doing things

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Hey thanks everybody!


Sounds like the consensus is to separate the CV joint head from the axle.

When putting the CV joint back on the axle, does anyone loosely clamp a molegrip on the circlip to compress/close it, or do you just whack the CV joint back on the axle...?

[Ol timer]

Just wack it on with a soft mallet

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Got it. Thx!