
Camber, Caster, Toe Tracking Figures
#16
Posted 18 September 2021 - 01:01 PM
#17
Posted 18 September 2021 - 06:46 PM
Straightening the steering wheel used to be a problem with the short track-rod-ends. However, I think that the long-thread ones are normal now, so to set the steering wheel to dead centre, just unscrew one track rod a little and screw the opposite one in by the exact number of turns. Repeat until the wheel is in correct position, tighten the track rod lock nuts and jobsagoodun.
#18
Posted 15 January 2022 - 05:40 PM
What would be the correct toe out on the front (if any) and toe in on the rear in degrees? 12inch. 5 inch wide 165 tyres.
Thanks guys.
#19
Posted 15 January 2022 - 05:48 PM
The first figures here are based on 10" wheels, fitted with tyres that give a rolling diameter between 19" and 20", that should be applicable to your 12's.
#20
Posted 15 January 2022 - 06:13 PM
Cheers,
Dennis
#21
Posted 15 January 2022 - 06:17 PM
Front
1,5 degrees negative camber
3 degrees castor
Slight toe out or dead straight.
Rear
0,5 degrees negative camber
1mm toe in?
I have fully adjustable everything.
#22
Posted 15 January 2022 - 08:02 PM
There’s a good few conversion charts online from mm to degrees and minutes for wheel diameter. Done all mine at home, works a treat (use hunter 4 post laser at work), use turnplates and motamec laser setup at home.I want t allign my Mini locally with modern digital measurement equipment. When I inquired them they told me they could not measure toe in mm or inches. But need a degree, minutes, seconds etc..
What would be the correct toe out on the front (if any) and toe in on the rear in degrees? 12inch. 5 inch wide 165 tyres.
Thanks guys.
Edited by Midas Mk1, 15 January 2022 - 08:06 PM.
#23
Posted 18 April 2022 - 04:37 PM
I don`t see the point of rear end modifications (camber changes) because I`m trying to reduce the amount of inherent understeer by improving the front grip?
You find me a mini on a standard subframe that is exactly within tolerance. It's like when people buy the 1.5° lower arms.. it's an arbitrary figure as most cars won't be straight. Adjustable suspension components on a mini make it handle like it's truly capable of As Sam rightly mentions, it makes a massive difference.
I don`t see the point of rear end modifications (camber changes) because I`m trying to reduce the amount of inherent understeer by improving the front grip?
You find me a mini on a standard subframe that is exactly within tolerance. It's like when people buy the 1.5° lower arms.. it's an arbitrary figure as most cars won't be straight. Adjustable suspension components on a mini make it handle like it's truly capable of As Sam rightly mentions, it makes a massive difference.
Just had my tracking checked and I`ll take back my previous comments - ignorance is bliss!
Front nearside camber is 3.12 degrees positive / Offside 0.25 negative. Nearside castor 3.43 degrees / Offside 1.06 degrees (tie rod is slightly bent) toe out is now standard.
Rear nearside camber 1.31 degrees / offside 0.28 degrees negative. Nearside 0.27 degrees toe out / offside 0.38 degrees toe out.
Car has no crash damage and I was shocked to find the geometry is so far out - needless to say, I`ve ordered a Minispares Suspension pack of geometry items MSSK3013.
Undecided about having it set "bog standard" all round, or to go for front 1 degree negative camber / 3 degrees castor / standard toe out and rear 0 degrees camber / standard toe out?
#24
Posted 18 April 2022 - 04:44 PM
#25
Posted 13 May 2022 - 02:15 PM
Are the above figures i.e. front 1/16" toe out and rear 1/8" toe in per wheel or a total figure for both wheels?
#26
Posted 13 May 2022 - 07:24 PM
Are the above figures i.e. front 1/16" toe out and rear 1/8" toe in per wheel or a total figure for both wheels?
Wheel to Wheel.
On the rear wheels in particular, I like to set mine to the centre line of the car (so 1/2 these figures) and then check wheel to wheel. This is to ensure the car doesn't crab and if things are bad enough, it's quite possible to have one wheel neutral or even toe out and all the measured toe in on the opposite wheel. It measures correct, but is a million miles out.
#27
Posted 13 May 2022 - 08:50 PM
Are the above figures i.e. front 1/16" toe out and rear 1/8" toe in per wheel or a total figure for both wheels?
Wheel to Wheel.
On the rear wheels in particular, I like to set mine to the centre line of the car (so 1/2 these figures) and then check wheel to wheel. This is to ensure the car doesn't crab and if things are bad enough, it's quite possible to have one wheel neutral or even toe out and all the measured toe in on the opposite wheel. It measures correct, but is a million miles out.
The place I`m using has Hunter equipment, so I have to convert into degrees. So, 1/16" / 1.58 mm of toe out using a 509 mm diameter wheel is equivalent to 0.177854 degrees wheel to wheel. Dividing by 2 gives 1/32" per side or 0.088927 degrees per wheel?
#28
Posted 14 May 2022 - 12:36 AM
Are the above figures i.e. front 1/16" toe out and rear 1/8" toe in per wheel or a total figure for both wheels?
Wheel to Wheel.
On the rear wheels in particular, I like to set mine to the centre line of the car (so 1/2 these figures) and then check wheel to wheel. This is to ensure the car doesn't crab and if things are bad enough, it's quite possible to have one wheel neutral or even toe out and all the measured toe in on the opposite wheel. It measures correct, but is a million miles out.
The place I`m using has Hunter equipment, so I have to convert into degrees. So, 1/16" / 1.58 mm of toe out using a 509 mm diameter wheel is equivalent to 0.177854 degrees wheel to wheel. Dividing by 2 gives 1/32" per side or 0.088927 degrees per wheel?
The first figures here are based on 10" wheels, fitted with tyres that give a rolling diameter between 19" and 20", that should be applicable to your 12's.
I'm sure if they are 'in the game' they could convert a linear measurement to an angle or I'd be VERY surprised of their computised contraption doesn't do it for them.
#29
Posted 15 May 2022 - 11:11 AM
Are the above figures i.e. front 1/16" toe out and rear 1/8" toe in per wheel or a total figure for both wheels?
Wheel to Wheel.
On the rear wheels in particular, I like to set mine to the centre line of the car (so 1/2 these figures) and then check wheel to wheel. This is to ensure the car doesn't crab and if things are bad enough, it's quite possible to have one wheel neutral or even toe out and all the measured toe in on the opposite wheel. It measures correct, but is a million miles out.
The place I`m using has Hunter equipment, so I have to convert into degrees. So, 1/16" / 1.58 mm of toe out using a 509 mm diameter wheel is equivalent to 0.177854 degrees wheel to wheel. Dividing by 2 gives 1/32" per side or 0.088927 degrees per wheel?
The first figures here are based on 10" wheels, fitted with tyres that give a rolling diameter between 19" and 20", that should be applicable to your 12's.
I'm sure if they are 'in the game' they could convert a linear measurement to an angle or I'd be VERY surprised of their computised contraption doesn't do it for them.
The standard figures for the car are pre-programmed into Hunter equipment, at most places you get blank looks if you want something different.
Mine`s running 12" with 509 mm Nankang NA1 tyres, which explains the difference in the mins/sec figures.
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