13 replies to this topic

[Bongo]

Hi All,

 

I'm about to cut out and replace the full front panel on my newly acquired 1976 1275 GT - looks as if someone has been rallying it in Finland or its been kicked by a herd of mad bulls! There are two heritage replacement panels available for the year, one is for a rubber mounted attachment to the subframe and the other is for a non rubber attachment.

 

It seems to have the non rubber attachment, but I have no idea of the difference, so although it probably seems a stupid question, does anybody know if the two Clubman panels are the same dimensions and interchangeable? Could I get the rubber one and replace the rubber with a solid washer for instance or vice versa? Only asking because I'm not sure if the rubber may just be missing. It was reg'd in March of '76 so it's likely to be the earlier non rubber one.

 

Any info gratefully received - the panel is £280!

 

Bongo

 

 

[whistler]

If the subframe tower uses a large single bolt through the bulkhead crossmember then the subframe is rubber mounted (although someone might have replaced the rubber mounts with solid ones out of personal choice).

The pre 76 used 2 bolts or stud/nuts on each tower mount and the floor and front panel parts of the subframe bolted directly without anything between.

 

Others will correct me if I'm wrong I've no doubt.

[Spider]

The difference between them is the bolt holes for the mounts are higher for the rubber mount type.

You GT was on the cusp of the change over from Solid to Rubber, so as per whistler's suggestion, if it has a twin bolt subframe, fit the earlier solid mount type.

[sonscar]

Is the present panel beyond salvation?This would be my first avenue.Just a thought,Steve..

[sonikk4]

If the subframe tower uses a large single bolt through the bulkhead crossmember then the subframe is rubber mounted (although someone might have replaced the rubber mounts with solid ones out of personal choice).
The pre 76 used 2 bolts or stud/nuts on each tower mount and the floor and front panel parts of the subframe bolted directly without anything between.
 
Others will correct me if I'm wrong I've no doubt.

You are correct and the changeover was 76 and you may need some shims for the front panel to Subbie. So op, check your tower mounts and this will guide you to exactly what you need.

[Bongo]

Excellent! Thanks a lot guys, you have all clarified the problem. I think it must be rubber mounted since there is only one panel to subframe bolt, but as suggested perhaps someone has removed the rubber (or it's rotted away). Thanks for your suggestion, Steve, to attempt a repair, I think it's beyond my mediocre skills to turn the panel into something resembling a front panel and much of it is badly rusted from where it has been impacted. Trust me, being a skinflint I would have tried to save it!

Not sure whether to replace wings. Both have some holes in the usual place but not too bad and repairable. Driver's side footwell and sill will need replacing/welding though. I could pedal the car along! How do you all feel about repairing rather than replacing stuff? I suppose it stops being original at some point?

Edited by Bongo, 17 September 2021 - 09:11 AM.

[sonscar]

In todays world replace has become the "GO to"and if you have the budget/skills space/trusted specialist and most importantly DRIVE,then it is probably the way to go.

There is nothing wrong with repair(although there are many varying qualities of repair)It can be cheap,quick and long lasting when done right.The same skills to repair the front panel and wings will be required to replace them.It costs little save time to try it,you may surprise yourself.

Do you want a tidily presented driver or a project?Your choice.Enjoy whatever you do,Steve..

[Ethel]

Not clear if there's any confusion. There is only on bolt through the front panel with either type - if it's rubber mounted there's a bolt through the mounting to the subframe & another through the mounting to the body.

 

As above, the big give away is the huge bolt head,  on top of the bulkhead cross member on the later, rubbery, set up.

 

You can make either panel fit by drilling a new bolt hole.

[sonikk4]

Excellent! Thanks a lot guys, you have all clarified the problem. I think it must be rubber mounted since there is only one panel to subframe bolt, but as suggested perhaps someone has removed the rubber (or it's rotted away). Thanks for your suggestion, Steve, to attempt a repair, I think it's beyond my mediocre skills to turn the panel into something resembling a front panel and much of it is badly rusted from where it has been impacted. Trust me, being a skinflint I would have tried to save it!

Not sure whether to replace wings. Both have some holes in the usual place but not too bad and repairable. Driver's side footwell and sill will need replacing/welding though. I could pedal the car along! How do you all feel about repairing rather than replacing stuff? I suppose it stops being original at some point?

 

For the wings, it really does depend on the rust and where it actually is. Now me because i can , if the rust is not extensive and reasonably accessable i would repair. However if its on the swage line or any of the curved returns then thats not quite so straight fwd. Having the right tools is one things, having the right tools and the skill set to use them is something else entirely.

[Bongo]

Not clear if there's any confusion. There is only on bolt through the front panel with either type - if it's rubber mounted there's a bolt through the mounting to the subframe & onether through the mounting to the body.

 

As above, the big give away is the huge bolt head,  on top of the bulkhead cross member on the later, rubbery, set up.

 

You can make either panel fit by drilling a new bolt hole.

Cheers for the clarification - I must have read it incorrectly. Glad to hear if I order the wrong one I can just drill a new hole!

[Bongo]

In todays world replace has become the "GO to"and if you have the budget/skills space/trusted specialist and most importantly DRIVE,then it is probably the way to go.

There is nothing wrong with repair(although there are many varying qualities of repair)It can be cheap,quick and long lasting when done right.The same skills to repair the front panel and wings will be required to replace them.It costs little save time to try it,you may surprise yourself.

Do you want a tidily presented driver or a project?Your choice.Enjoy whatever you do,Steve..

Thanks for the suggestion. I might give the wings repairs a go - I have a 1958 Austin A35 and I did minor repairs to the wings that seem to be pretty good, prior to a respray. The driver floor and front panel of the 1275 will have to be replaced and possibly some welding on the crossmember - always wary about structural stuff. Thanks for the suggestion

[Bongo]

In todays world replace has become the "GO to"and if you have the budget/skills space/trusted specialist and most importantly DRIVE,then it is probably the way to go.

There is nothing wrong with repair(although there are many varying qualities of repair)It can be cheap,quick and long lasting when done right.The same skills to repair the front panel and wings will be required to replace them.It costs little save time to try it,you may surprise yourself.

Do you want a tidily presented driver or a project?Your choice.Enjoy whatever you do,Steve..

 

 

 

Excellent! Thanks a lot guys, you have all clarified the problem. I think it must be rubber mounted since there is only one panel to subframe bolt, but as suggested perhaps someone has removed the rubber (or it's rotted away). Thanks for your suggestion, Steve, to attempt a repair, I think it's beyond my mediocre skills to turn the panel into something resembling a front panel and much of it is badly rusted from where it has been impacted. Trust me, being a skinflint I would have tried to save it!

Not sure whether to replace wings. Both have some holes in the usual place but not too bad and repairable. Driver's side footwell and sill will need replacing/welding though. I could pedal the car along! How do you all feel about repairing rather than replacing stuff? I suppose it stops being original at some point?

 

For the wings, it really does depend on the rust and where it actually is. Now me because i can , if the rust is not extensive and reasonably accessable i would repair. However if its on the swage line or any of the curved returns then thats not quite so straight fwd. Having the right tools is one things, having the right tools and the skill set to use them is something else entirely.

 

Point taken. I'm not a welder, so I investigated the idea of gluing panels in place using modern epoxy but although glue would be rigid enough the impact resistance is not there, and its not a Lotus Elise, so dumped that idea!

 

[Ethel]

 

Not clear if there's any confusion. There is only on bolt through the front panel with either type - if it's rubber mounted there's a bolt through the mounting to the subframe & onether through the mounting to the body.

 

As above, the big give away is the huge bolt head,  on top of the bulkhead cross member on the later, rubbery, set up.

 

You can make either panel fit by drilling a new bolt hole.

Cheers for the clarification - I must have read it incorrectly. Glad to hear if I order the wrong one I can just drill a new hole!

 

You'd need packing in place of the mounting if you but a later front on an earlier car, so it's best to try & get it right, unless cost or quality differences make it worth the extra effort.

[Bongo]

 

 

Not clear if there's any confusion. There is only on bolt through the front panel with either type - if it's rubber mounted there's a bolt through the mounting to the subframe & onether through the mounting to the body.

 

As above, the big give away is the huge bolt head,  on top of the bulkhead cross member on the later, rubbery, set up.

 

You can make either panel fit by drilling a new bolt hole.

Cheers for the clarification - I must have read it incorrectly. Glad to hear if I order the wrong one I can just drill a new hole!

 

You'd need packing in place of the mounting if you but a later front on an earlier car, so it's best to try & get it right, unless cost or quality differences make it worth the extra effort.

 

Will do. Thanks again.