Super Mini Mad
Posted 29 August 2021 - 06:36 PM
Hello,
Stripping a gearbox. Everything is out, except for the plunger detents (number 14 in the diagram). I've tried a magnet but they get stuck on the threads. Just wondering if there's a knack or I will have to carry on swearing at it.
Gearbox diagram.JPG 42.26K
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Moved Into The Garage
Posted 29 August 2021 - 06:46 PM
Did it not so long back. Can’t say it was difficult but picks and things can help.
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 30 August 2021 - 04:03 AM
You've obviously got the threaded bung and spring out. Take the Selector Shaft out then you can thread some wire in through the hole for the Shift Rod, but steer it up the hole with the detent. Another way is with some light air pressure, if you can't get what you have to work with in through the Shift Shaft Hole and in to the detent, block off one side of the Shift Shaft Hole and inject your Air in through the other side. Sometimes just loads of cleaning fluid pouring in and a good bang upside down gets them out. These are the easy ones. The Reverse one can be very trying.
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 30 August 2021 - 07:28 AM
As above. The reverse one needed a sharp pointy thing
Super Mini Mad
Posted 30 August 2021 - 07:34 AM
Haha. I got the reverse one out easily! The others are refusing. I'll persevere with cleaning fluid, wire and maybe a bit of compressed air. While I'm here, the post for the reverse lever. Any tricks to get that out? I'm stripping a damaged casing. I've been offered another case but it's been stripped of everything, so I'm doing the same with this one.
Thank you - I'll let you know when successful...
Paul
Super Mini Mad
Posted 30 August 2021 - 03:39 PM
All out now, even the reverse lever pillar. Had to drill the old knackered casing to get that out but once drilled, it was easy to bang it out. Hate damaging a casing but the one I had was only for parts, the diff let go at some point and did a lot of damage (holes in casing etc.) ouch!
Super Mini Mad
Posted 11 September 2021 - 07:46 PM
You've obviously got the threaded bung and spring out. Take the Selector Shaft out then you can thread some wire in through the hole for the Shift Rod, but steer it up the hole with the detent. Another way is with some light air pressure, if you can't get what you have to work with in through the Shift Shaft Hole and in to the detent, block off one side of the Shift Shaft Hole and inject your Air in through the other side. Sometimes just loads of cleaning fluid pouring in and a good bang upside down gets them out. These are the easy ones. The Reverse one can be very trying.
Guess what? The spare casing I've recently bought has the reverse plunger still in. Bloody thing will not come out. I can get it to rotate but can't pull it out. Any tips? I've tried picks, forceps, lubricant. Really annoying. What does it actually do? It hardly moves up and down.
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 11 September 2021 - 08:51 PM
You've obviously got the threaded bung and spring out. Take the Selector Shaft out then you can thread some wire in through the hole for the Shift Rod, but steer it up the hole with the detent. Another way is with some light air pressure, if you can't get what you have to work with in through the Shift Shaft Hole and in to the detent, block off one side of the Shift Shaft Hole and inject your Air in through the other side. Sometimes just loads of cleaning fluid pouring in and a good bang upside down gets them out. These are the easy ones. The Reverse one can be very trying.
Guess what? The spare casing I've recently bought has the reverse plunger still in. Bloody thing will not come out. I can get it to rotate but can't pull it out. Any tips? I've tried picks, forceps, lubricant. Really annoying. What does it actually do? It hardly moves up and down.
It is in one of those places that doesn't drain oil and the muck that's with it too well so yes, they can get really gummed up.
It's purpose is to hold the shift rod either in Neutral (that that's also does with the Interlock) and Reverse when selected. Without it, you'd find it would have a tendency to jump out of Reverse.
I can't say I have a magic bullet method of removing them, but I haven't been beaten yet. You may need to buy a long series drill bit that's as close as you can get to the diameter of the drilling in the case then (cringe), grind the tip flat, poke it up the hole, press as hard as you can while turning it by hand or maybe super slow speed in a drill, just be super careful. You could try a steel rod first, just grind a slot down one side of it so as it 'reams' the drilling (without material removal - but read on) the muck has somewhere to go. It's also likely after all these years that the alloy will have swelled that little bit too. Then clean the hole and keep cleaning it. There's also a vent on the flywheel side of the drilling, that's further back in the drilling from the detent, this is to allow the space behind the plunger to breath, so the plunger doesn't hydraulic. With the extension nozzle spray a load of WD40 in there to help clean some from that side. You may also want to try some gentle air pressure in through the vent too, but just start at very low pressure and work up, but for safety's sake, screw the threaded plug back in before doing this, just a few threads will be fine. Just be careful if going this way.
Just thinking a bit more about this and your description of how it's behaving, I'm wondering if in fact the vent is blocked up ?
There's likely many other ways of shifting it, these I've done but also keen to hear if anyone has any others !
Once you get the plunger out, I find I can fish the spring out with a bit of steel wire with a small 'hook' bent in to the end of it.
Patience and good luck. Preserver and you'll get it.
Super Mini Mad
Posted 12 September 2021 - 08:47 AM
Still trying...
This is my dilemma. I got one out from the donor casing but the casing I'm building into still had it in. I tried grabbing it with forceps and picks but all I did was break the top nipple off. I can rotate it, I can lift it 2mm but I can't get it out of the whole. If I give up and leave it in there as is with the spring and the nut, what's the impact? As far as I can see, very little as the spring sits over the nipple and the detent only goes up and down when the rod goes in and out. Thoughts?
detent.JPG 50.49K
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Edited by floormanager, 12 September 2021 - 08:48 AM.
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 12 September 2021 - 10:05 AM
Mmm,,,,,, that looks like the Reverse Check Plunger - the one on the front of the Box ? Item 44 in your Drawing ? This is a different animal to the detent, sorry.
You can't get a bent tool (bent pick) in through where the Gear Change Shaft (26 in the drawing) sits in the bottom o the case ? Not the end of the world if you can get this one out.
Another possible option might be to screw the plug in a couple of turns, then blast compressed air in to where the Gear Change Shaft sits on the bottom of the Case. There is a 'vent' in that too, but if you hit it with enough air, it should shove the Plunger.
Super Mini Mad
Posted 12 September 2021 - 06:08 PM
Cheers Spider. I tried for an age today. I cleaned it with acetone, paraffin and panel cleaner. It moves lovely round and up and down just enough to disappear up the hole to allow the selector shaft in. I can't move it after that. I even tried putting wire down the middle of if and tied a know with a 3mm nut but pulling the wire only snapped the wire. Given up for now, put the spring and nut on it while I went away to sulk. If I try compressed air, I'll have to bung up the holes in the selector part.
Hmmmm.
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