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Su Fuel Pump Issues


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#1 eebee

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Posted 28 August 2021 - 06:40 PM

My ‘64 850 has sat for many years but after various recommissioning tasks, new pipes, tank flush, new fuel etc, started first time. Today the pump apparently did its normal thing but the car wouldn’t start. An in-line filter shows meet that not much petrol is getting through, if any. The tank has plenty in it. Does the pump have an internal filter as such ? Could it be blocked ? Looks like a DIY refurb of AUF214 pump is not for the feint hearted…!

#2 bpirie1000

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Posted 28 August 2021 - 08:11 PM

I would first of all try draining some out of the tank make sure the rubber pipe from tank to fuel ridgid pipe is o.k. also check any damage on the rigid pipe.. usually up behind the subframe, or the front bulkhead corner..

Is your pump in the boot?

Be very careful with the inlet and outlet for the pump.. they can be delecate.....

#3 Spider

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Posted 28 August 2021 - 08:31 PM

The Electric SU Pump has a set of Points in them and if the car's been parked up, it's not unusual for them to get a bit of corrosion on the Point Faces. When these are the issue, the Pump is totally silent when you turn the key on. Often a tap on it with something will get it going temporarily. Likewise, much the same when the Points are worn and need replacing.

 

If it is ticking away and no or not much fuel is being pumped, it could be the Valves and / or the Diaphragm at issue here. The Rubbers can dry out and get quite hard, thus preventing them from doing what they need to do.

 

If there was a blockage on the inlet side of the Pump, it may tick a couple of times, but then it will stall in an Energised state and burn out after a few minutes. If there's a blockage somewhere after the outlet, the pump will tick a few times and stop like normal, only there'll be little or no flow at the Carb.

 

You've mentioned 'the pump does the usual thing' I'm not quite sure what you're meaning by that ?? Also, where's the Filter located ?

They are actually a very simple Pump to strip and overhaul, but as bpirie mentioned above, the plastic parts on the Pump can get brittle if they are quite old. If you don't feel up to overhauling the Pump and would like to replace it, SU have versions with Electronic Points in them and look the same externally, if you are after an original Pump, that's what I'd suggest. If you want a replacement Pump that does the job, the Hardie Pumps that Mini Spares offer are great.



#4 eebee

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Posted 29 August 2021 - 08:34 AM

Really helpful thanks. By “usual thing”, I mean that when the key is turned (it’s a floor start button), you can hear the usual priming/ticking noise. I fitted a clear in-line filter near the carb as a temporary installation, just to catch/view any debris from the tank. However, the pump is of course the first to catch the debris from the tank above it. I felt that the tank was pretty clean however, following a removal & flush a few months back and it’s been a first-time easy starter ever since. Your information is very clear and I’ve since watched a vid or two online, which explains the points factor & strip-down procedure, so I’ll have a go myself. I remember two past, ageing Mini’s I owned which both had a pump problem, but a quick few taps with a hammer got them going; a temporary fix however !

#5 MiniMadRacer

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Posted 29 August 2021 - 08:36 AM

Slightly off topic (again)  but if rebuilding your pump and or replacing hoses, its best to make sure they are E10 (ethanol) tolerant ready for the new fuel "c rap" thats coming our way. I can see a lot of "bargains" coming up as sellers try to off load stuff that will not tolerate the new fuel.



#6 Spider

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Posted 29 August 2021 - 09:11 AM

Slightly off topic (again)  but if rebuilding your pump and or replacing hoses, its best to make sure they are E10 (ethanol) tolerant ready for the new fuel "c rap" thats coming our way. I can see a lot of "bargains" coming up as sellers try to off load stuff that will not tolerate the new fuel.

 

That's a very good point.

 

New genuine SU Parts are E compatible.



#7 sonscar

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Posted 29 August 2021 - 11:27 AM

Just a thought,is the float in the carb jammed if the pump ticks and you cannot see fuel flowing?Steve..

#8 eebee

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Posted 29 August 2021 - 12:05 PM

Good calls. Pump points cleaned. All looks fine internally although will replace diaphragm as recommended. Pump definitely OK but petrol not leaving carb; float chamber full, float free-moving. Plenty of battery power; starter recently refurbished & working well. Plugs sparking. Could it be dirty carb jet ?

#9 richmondclassicsnorthwales

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Posted 29 August 2021 - 03:37 PM

My old 1960 Mk1 Morris Mini has the same issue, I used to have to give it a knock with a screwdriver occasionally.

 

You could have a couple of issues with either the pump diaphragm or the jet tube

 

The diaphragm could have gone too hard over the years, and is struggling to flex

 

The other could be the tube that runs from the float to the jet could have a lot of crud in it. You will be surprised just how dirty that tube gets

especially after 60 odd years if it is the same jet. A good while back when they first made the jets, they were made out of Brass

 

As Spider says, the pumps are pretty straight forward to service, and the points are pretty straight forward to change, just work methodically

 

Points are / were part number AUB6107 and the contact blade is AUA6036 and as I remember, both parts are in the kit



#10 cal844

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Posted 29 August 2021 - 03:45 PM

You can rule out the needle etc if you keep the carb whole and just pour a small amount of fuel down the air intake. The engine should then try to start (even a cough or two is enough) but ideally the motor would start, run then die after a few seconds...

If that happens I'd now remove the needle assembly of the carb as a complete unit (3x screws around the dashpot) you should get fuel coming into the carb from the centre hole of the jet (usually gravity is enough)


Personally I'd remove the float bowl lid and check the needle valve, then whilst you have the carb part stripped remove some fuel from the bowl(or cover the top) and then blow air from the needle end of the jet back into the float bowl. Mop up and detritus and go from there.

Apologies for the rambling post but I thought I'd try and get as much checks as I could across...

Regards

Cal

Edited by cal844, 29 August 2021 - 03:49 PM.


#11 richmondclassicsnorthwales

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Posted 29 August 2021 - 06:27 PM

Try some Easi Start or the equivalents of     Start ya dratsab  (read it backwards)

 

3 / 4 puffs of that, if it coughs and starts   BINGO !!

 

It is not as as bad as you think, Irons out a lot of starting problems, you know where your are at ,  Try some 

 

Like Adrenalin to a Heart



#12 eebee

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Posted 30 August 2021 - 09:15 AM

Was going to use easy start but I couldn’t reach the starter button & spray into the carb at the same time ! Lol

#13 Spider

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Posted 30 August 2021 - 10:20 AM

,,,,,or the equivalents of     Start ya dratsab

 

22VQPv2b.jpg

 



#14 richmondclassicsnorthwales

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Posted 30 August 2021 - 10:32 AM

 

,,,,,or the equivalents of     Start ya dratsab

 

22VQPv2b.jpg

 

 

 

That's the job !  Marvellous gear !!

 



#15 cal844

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Posted 31 August 2021 - 10:25 AM

You can spray it into the carb then start it




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