11 replies to this topic

[riktanius]

Is there a reason to not buy the reproduction version? Or is there a particular reason to buy the original "30" year old set?

The reproductions are cheaper and look nicer... but they should fit the same.

[mab01uk]

The Mk1 forum 'experts' can usually answer any differences on later reproduction alloy wheel versions:-

http://mk1-forum.net/index.php

 

[sonscar]

In my experience "old" wheels can be very worn,not just wavering and out of round but the stud holes can be so worn as to never be able to balance them.New wheels should be free from all these defects but not always so.Choose wisely,Steve..

[MiniCarJack]

I'd personally prefer to refurb an original set of wheels such as Dunlop D1s rather than buy reproduction ones, but originals in good enough condition are obviously a lot harder to come by than a brand new item which is ready to go off the shelf. Cheaper repro wheels can be of poorer quality and not quite match up to the originals - a common complaint I've seen mentioned quite frequently is that some of these cheaper aftermarket wheels can have a very poor standard of finishing (lacquer peel etc after minimal use).

[Spherix]

The originals are 4,5 at a different offset (ET value), not 5.

[r.tec]

Never heard or saw D1s 4.5" wide. I have a few sets of them, stamped all around '71 or '72, and they are all 5" and tell so on the inside: 5x10. They were one of the first aftermarekt wheels that had TÜV-blessing here. Later on Ronal and ATS had it too.

Do you have pictures/literature of the 4.5s?

[Maccmike8]

The rep D1s are 4.5 I think.

[riktanius]

I appreciate all the discussion. 

I used Dunlop as an example, but I found some Cosmics that I think i will have to pull the trigger on. 

Either way, my discussion was more about the difference between an older, unknown quality original, or a brand new reproduction. I am in NO WAY a purist, and I dont have an infinite wallet. But I do want to spend my money in the right place and not buy dud materials. 

When I used to build Ricer racers in the 2000's, I knew what brands were good and what werent. But here we are talking about 50 year old wheels and I dont know if there is something that makes them special compared to the newer kind. 

It will cost me 30ish% more for original wheels, tires, and reconditioning. I am happy to do it if it is the right thing to do. But I dont want to part with my cash just because it is "the purist way". 

[r.tec]

You're right, it went a bit off-topic here.

 

If I looked for the D1 design I'd go the JBW route. They look nicer and are new. So one can be sure that they were not mistreated in the long history of 2nd/3rd... hand wheels.

[Spherix]

Never heard or saw D1s 4.5" wide. I have a few sets of them, stamped all around '71 or '72, and they are all 5" and tell so on the inside: 5x10. They were one of the first aftermarekt wheels that had TÜV-blessing here. Later on Ronal and ATS had it too.

Do you have pictures/literature of the 4.5s?

 

Just to complete the information: https://www.mini-for...-10-steel-rims/ the 5J version is listed as ultra rare, 4,5J being the norm.

[r.tec]

No, Spherix, D1 are the aluminium alloy wheels numbered LP922 or C-AHT184 when from Special Tuning.

 

Your are referring to steels, LP918, C-AHT182. They indeed were nearly all 4.5x10.

[Spherix]

Ah, I figured when the OP referred to 30+ year old sets, by default they meant the LP918.. Suppose the 1990's is 30 years ago now..