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Spi : Flywheel / Reluctor Ring / Crank Sensor Timing


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#16 Pops_Guild

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Posted 09 August 2021 - 08:28 AM

When you refer to the inlet manifold gasket do you mean the gasket(s) sitting below the injector body? IIRC there are a couple at least - an intricately shaped one, and a more simple oval one. Not sure whether the white / grey smoke you mention would be caused by a failed gasket in the injector body, but it may account for the rough running.

 

Good point! There are numerous leak-potentials around the manifold, throttle body and injector setup (hydraulic body). 

 

The exhaust manifold gasket is one. The hydraulic body gasket is another, which is what MatthewsDad is referring to. If you have split the hydraulic body from the throttle body at some point its very likely that the original Rover (black) gasket wont have survived. These were NLA until recently but the blue gasket in the picture is the replacement (message me for availability).

 

There are other areas which can cause leaks and rough / head-scratching idling...

 

- The vacuum pipes and fuel trap, you have probably replaced these already because the forum always suggests these to be a problem but worth checking them and making sure they're not push on too far. Fuel trap should have the green to the MAP sensor (connected to the ECU). I recently found a small kink in my pipe to the ECU which was making my SPi do all sorts of odd iding...

 

- There are 3 rubber hoses coming off the throttle body, all of which do to the breather rail. Check them, especially the large diameter on.

 

- The Servo pipe, goes from the inlet manifold to the brake servo, a leak there will cause things to be erratic.

 

- The rubber hoses to either of the breathers /oil separators at the end of the breather rail.

 

- The rubber hoses to the purge valve.

 

Worth checking them all, even a small leak there can make the ECU make funny decisions about how to manage and fuel the engine.

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#17 mini13

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Posted 09 August 2021 - 08:37 AM

ignition leads on correctly?  sounds like it could be running on 2 cyls bit that is just a wild stab.

 

its possible to get the flywheel on 180 deg out is your really try... with an erroneous ign lead combination this would probably run, but may give "interesting results" 



#18 mini13

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Posted 09 August 2021 - 08:48 AM

ignition leads on correctly?  sounds like it could be running on 2 cyls bit that is just a wild stab.

 

its possible to get the flywheel on 180 deg out is your really try... with an erroneous ign lead combination this would probably run, but may give "interesting results" 



#19 Elwyn

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Posted 09 August 2021 - 09:26 AM

when looking for TDC with the spark plugs out, the tops of the pistons at 1 and 4 looked shiny

The tops of the pistons at 2 and 3 looked black

All 4 had been cleaned up



#20 Elwyn

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Posted 10 August 2021 - 02:28 PM

Having searched TMF and read page after helpful page, I find myself confused

 

I've seen a post that says that the Rover manual HT lead diagram is wrong and that Haynes is right

 

I have both (thanks Roger)

 

I can find the HT lead / dissy cap diagram in the Rover manual

I can't find the equivalent in Haynes

Haynes has a distributor-less DIS system photo

 

I assume there are different versions of the Haynes manual?

 

Can anyone shed any light on this "Rover manual is wrong" claim?



#21 sonscar

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Posted 10 August 2021 - 03:05 PM

Turn the engine to TDC firing stroke on no1 cylinder.Take off the cap and note where the rotor is pointing.This should be at a tower and this is no1 cylinder.The rotor turns anticlockwise so the tower to the left is 3,under that is 4 and to the right of this is 2.This works with the appropriate firing order for all distributors(of course someone will have some obscure example)If the drive is correctly fitted it should also point to no1 spark plug in the Mini.Steve..



#22 Elwyn

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Posted 10 August 2021 - 03:16 PM

Thanks

That's what I thought and how I have mine

But it's also what it shows in the Rover Manual that someone claimed was wrong

I shall help myself to a pinch of salt

Thanks again



#23 sonscar

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Posted 10 August 2021 - 03:27 PM

Not everything on the internet is correct.Unfortunately you are searching because you do not know and the answers may not be helpful.Fun isn't it,Steve..

#24 Elwyn

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Posted 11 August 2021 - 10:07 AM

UPDATE

 

The engine is running

On all 4 cylinders

Still with some fine tuning to do, but it's a huge step forwards 

Thanks for all the helpful advice, thoughts, theories and pointers

 

Regards

 

Elwyn



#25 Bobbins

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Posted 15 August 2021 - 06:58 AM

UPDATE
 
The engine is running
On all 4 cylinders
Still with some fine tuning to do, but it's a huge step forwards 
Thanks for all the helpful advice, thoughts, theories and pointers
 
Regards
 
Elwyn


What did you change?

#26 Elwyn

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Posted 15 August 2021 - 01:54 PM

I'm not sure exactly what did it, but I found that the vac pipes on the fuel trap were on the wrong way round and I reset the stepper motor and adjusted the lost motion gap / throttle cable.






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