16 replies to this topic

[ThermalEvent]

Hi all,

I've covered a few hundred miles on my newly rebuilt 1330 and i've calculated its using a pint of oil per 400 miles - almost certain it's been caused by borewash due to high emissions at the mot. For reference I'm using Millers 20w50 CTV oil.

Planning on removing the engine, stripping it down and refreshing the bores using a 320 grit flex/ball hone along with new rings.

My question is has anyone done this before and how far would you recommend I strip the engine down to hone the cylinders? Do I remove just the pistons/rods or remove all components and then fully clean the block afterwards?

Not sure how much contamination it's going to through around the engine. I could always fill the crankcase with rags/cardboard to stop the oil being thrown out during honing?

Any thoughts/comments would be appreciated.

Cheers,

[GraemeC]

For peace of mind I'd strip completely - by the time you have pistons, rods and crank out there's not much left to remove.

[Spider]

I'd suggest you will want to strip it to the last nut and bolt. Following the light honing, there'll be some of the honing material left in the grooves of the cross hatch. You want to be sure to get all that out. Normal degreasers don't usually budge the stuff, there's a few methods recommended for cleaning the bores, a popular and common method is with hot soapy water. You'll want to warm the block before washing it, if you hit it with hot water while the block is still cold, the heat will be taken out of the water and it'll be much less effective. Following the hot water wash, You'll want to de-water the block, I find WD-40 works well here. Then clean the block in the normal way from here.

You can check if the bores are properly clean by swamping a clean (preferably white or uncoloured) paper toweling and running that through the bore, It should come out as clean as it went in. I'd suggest using a fresh piece of paper on each bore.

I'm not sure if that's the Oil you had in it from the outset and with 400 miles on the clock, it's likely too late now, but I find using a light oil - a Running In Oil - for the initial 300 miles can go a long way to avoiding glazing of the bores when they are fresh.

[ThermalEvent]

Thanks for your input guys, I'll fully strip it then and give it a full clean as you've recommended.

I had used Driven BR 15w50 break in oil for the first 100 miles which was recommended by the machine shop then switched to the Millers oil.

This time round I know the twin HS2 carbs are not overfuelling but could even lean them out a tad for the first 100 miles. Had used the '12 flats from level' but this was way to rich.

[Tones61]

Hi all,

I've covered a few hundred miles on my newly rebuilt 1330 and i've calculated its using a pint of oil per 400 miles - almost certain it's been caused by borewash due to high emissions at the mot. For reference I'm using Millers 20w50 CTV oil.

Planning on removing the engine, stripping it down and refreshing the bores using a 320 grit flex/ball hone along with new rings.

My question is has anyone done this before and how far would you recommend I strip the engine down to hone the cylinders? Do I remove just the pistons/rods or remove all components and then fully clean the block afterwards?

Not sure how much contamination it's going to through around the engine. I could always fill the crankcase with rags/cardboard to stop the oil being thrown out during honing?

Any thoughts/comments would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Try a hard load run in before stripping,I've had this before,
Too soft a run in and the bores polish

[evoderby]

https://www.millerso...d-glaze-bust-2/

 

Liquid glaze bust….no stripping, just dipping.

 

 

[sonscar]

Easily pleased motorist here,unless it is trailing clouds of blue I would be happy with 400 miles per pint.I would drive it.Steve..

[absx2]

I`ve always run my new engines briskly from the very start and i`ve always been told to run them in how you want them to go.

Nothing to lose now so give it short bursts of hard acceleration and overrun, it might do the trick. 

[ThermalEvent]

@sonscar, I did consider just leaving it as is but it's been 5 years in the making and would like it to be as good as possible, even if it means tearing the engine apart again!

Engine is now out but removed the head before lifting it out and took the below photos, not sure what peoples thoughts are on these?

Cylinder 1


Cylinder 2


Cylinder 3


Cylinder 4


Final one I took which I think shows the glazing more clearly

[sonscar]

No engineer here but I would be more worried that the piston has signs of picking up on the bore.The honing looks very aggressive to me too.Good luck,Steve..

[Steve220]

That's piston slap up the bores. Are they forged pistons? The tolerances look huge.

[ThermalEvent]

They are Russell Engineering 1330 pistons and the machine shop set clearance to 0.002". Haven't measured myself though to confirm. My understanding is it's the skirt that the clearance is set to not the top of the piston?

I do know the carbs were massively overfuelling for the first 30 miles, I wonder whether fuel was running into the bores and washing the oil away? It's only on the carb side and I suspect this is what has happened. Happy to be corrected though as I am by no means an expert on engines.

[Tones61]

Try a hard load run in before stripping,I've had this before,
Too soft a run in and the bores polish [/quote]


Guess you didn't want to try / or get chance to do a hard run in ?

That wants complete strip down now,
Proper glaze busting,
Re ringing with re gap

Edited by Tones61, 07 August 2021 - 01:46 PM.

[Spider]

I agree, it need glaze busting.

I'd also suggest a plateau hone following that. The coarseness of that finish you last had holds more Oil and so is more inclined to Glazing.

When it's reassembled and ready to run, I'd suggest getting some load on it right away, like in that first 5 revolutions of the crank, don't start and idle it. Drive it 'normally' until it's warmed up, then in 3rd or 4th gear, accelerate hard from 2000 to 3000 rpm 2 or 3 times, then drive it normally again until it's run in. Keep the idle speed up around 1000 rpms until then.

[Earwax]

Very good pictures by the way. - I tend to concur that the honing is very aggressive - ( usually the pictures tend to understate the state of honing - but in this instance not so)