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Cellulose Preparation For Clear Coat


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#1 homerball

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Posted 06 July 2021 - 08:45 AM

Hi Guys

 

As a disclaimer this is my first attempt at spraying so please bear with me if I have misunderstood something.

 

The car is two tone so I have started with the roof as it is less work to redo if I do something wrong, currently it is in Rustbuster Custom 421 epoxy primer. Next I will use some high build primer and then I plan to use cellulose paint, reading online there seems to be benefits of putting a clear coat over this.

 

What needs to be done to the cellulose paint in order to overcoat it with a clearcoat? Does all the orange peel and polishing need to be complete prior to the clear coat?

 

Thanks

Charlie



#2 myredmini

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Posted 06 July 2021 - 09:22 AM

You would be better off using proper basecoat if you are going to clearcoat it. Then you just apply the base, let it dry and clear straight over (do not leave it too long before clear or you will lose your adhesion window)

 

If you are using clearcoat you need to either use 1k clear if you dont have proper filters and air fed mask, if you do have access to this equipment, 2k clear.



#3 Homersimpson

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Posted 06 July 2021 - 09:48 AM

Personally I don't see the point of laquering (clear coating) cellulouse unless its with 2K and then you would probably just be better to use 2K direct gloss anyway.

 

I've used 2K laquer on top of solid colurs before to enhance the shine and have found that on red cars it looks amazing but on everything else it acts like a magnifying glass for any minor imperfections.



#4 DomCr250

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Posted 06 July 2021 - 10:09 AM

Personally I don't see the point of laquering (clear coating) cellulouse unless its with 2K and then you would probably just be better to use 2K direct gloss anyway.

 

I've used 2K laquer on top of solid colurs before to enhance the shine and have found that on red cars it looks amazing but on everything else it acts like a magnifying glass for any minor imperfections.

 

I agree, my trick to get a shine out of the gun is to be very brave and do the top final celly coat very diluted - the wetter the better. 



#5 Cabby

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Posted 06 July 2021 - 10:27 AM

This paint supplier has a how to guide, which includes clear top coat over cellulose.
https://www.jawel.co.uk/

#6 Homersimpson

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Posted 06 July 2021 - 05:28 PM

The thing is that if you can't get the paint to shine then you aren't going to get the laquer to shine and its just more material to put on with more risk of runs. 

 

Obviously clear of base is a totally different kettle of fish.



#7 homerball

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Posted 06 July 2021 - 06:32 PM

Thanks for the replies

 

Ah, I didn't realise that a base coat and cellulose are two different things.

I haven't been able to find birch grey GR3 in anything but cellulose.

 

I don't have the equipment to spray iso 2K so I'm not going to risk my health for a paint job.

 

If not using a clear coat I'm guessing the cellulose will just need to polished every few months?

 

Thanks 


Edited by homerball, 06 July 2021 - 06:33 PM.


#8 bluedragon

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Posted 06 July 2021 - 11:45 PM

It depends on how you use the car. If it's a show/specialty car that you drive only on special occasions and otherwise keep parked under cover, it should last a long time with regular coats of protective wax.

 

But, if it's stored outside and/or driven for regular errands and commutes, it will show the wear. Not as much in terms of the finish going flat (if you're waxing it regularly) but in terms of stone chips (cellulose\lacquer chips very easily compared to enamel and especially 2K paints.)

 

It also will stain easily, for example the case of a overflow at the fuel filler neck. Have a cloth handy to mop those up ASAP if that happens. Bird poop also has a much higher chance of etching the paint, and tree sap might be unremovable (some saps are such that anything strong enough to remove the sap also can remove cellulose paint.)

 

There are celluose clear coats - if your paint of choice is a metallic you may (probably) need a clear coat. If you did choose to use any other type of clear coat, you have to check with the manufacturer to see if it is compatible with cellulose - many 2K clears will wrinkle with cellulose underneath.

 

If you are going to drive the car regularly for normal errands, I'd look at a good enamel with a hardener (non-isocyanate based one.) Your shade could be custom mixed by a paint shop if you give them a good sample. Even with cellulose you still need a good charcoal filter mask rated for organic vapors. These aren't expensive. 

 

 

Dave






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