196 replies to this topic

[Ben_O]

Whilst waiting for the riv nut pliers, I started flatting the primer.

I did inside the boot first



Then the back panel



Then started working down the sides
I didn't photograph that specifically but it can be seen in the pictures that follow.

The riv nit pliers arrived so I got the rest installed for the arches.



And that's that done





Next the ones for the grille



Before I try the grille I am going to modify the front panel slightly.
There is a relief in the front panel Both sides which is to allow the top screws that hold on the side trims to go in without bottoming out kn the bodywork
Trouble is, the relief isn't really deep enough to allow the use of screws that are long enough enough hold it properly so I have drilled a 6mm hole each side which once painted will be safe from wet but allow the screw to go through without damaging the paint.



Then the grille can be trial fitted



Next, riv nuts for the headlamp bowls





And then riv nuts for the relay/fuse block



Now I need to remove all that lot and do a heap of sanding and then I can paint it.

Cheers
Ben

[Ben_O]

Engine bay primer sanded

[MikeRotherham]

One thing I am repeatedly struck when viewing the images of the body unadorned with things like trim and even things like the doors how good the body looks.

 

Bearing in mind the car was designed without things like CAD.

 

The way panels fit together and lines flow across them.

 

Unlike anything produced by BMC before.

 

This car first saw the light of day when I was 4 years old I'm now 66 years old.

 

How much was down Issigonis and how much the other people were behind this I don't know but I'm pleased they all did what they did.

 

Hope that doesn't all sound a bit fanciful.

Edited by MikeRotherham, 29 September 2021 - 07:48 PM.

[Ben_O]

One thing I am repeatedly struck when viewing the images of the body unadorned with things like trim and even things like the doors how good the body looks.

Bearing in mind the car was designed without things like CAD.

The way panels fit together and lines flow across them.

Unlike anything produced by BMC before.

This car first saw the light of day when I was 4 years old I'm now 66 years old.

How much was down Issigonis and how much the other people were behind this I don't know but I'm pleased all they did what they did.

Hope that doesn't all sound a bit fanciful.

I'm with you on that.
I love the look of a bare primed shell with the panels hung.
I'd have one as an ornament.

Edited by Ben_O, 29 September 2021 - 07:49 PM.

[floormanager]

You'll need those riv nut pliers again soon Ben

[Ben_O]

You'll need those riv nut pliers again soon Ben

When I ordered the flush fitting riv nuts for this one, I ordered extra to accommodate yours too so we're all sorted :)

[Kaj]

Ben, do you use alloy or steel Rivnuts? I've found the steel ones hard to pull in using the Sealey tool but may be it's not strong enough.

[T5FAU]

 

You'll need those riv nut pliers again soon Ben

When I ordered the flush fitting riv nuts for this one, I ordered extra to accommodate yours too so we're all sorted :)

 

 

I was going to ask which rivnuts were used for the arches to allow a flush fit. Are they the countersunk ones or reduced head ?

[Ben_O]

Ben, do you use alloy or steel Rivnuts? I've found the steel ones hard to pull in using the Sealey tool but may be it's not strong enough.

They are steel.
The new pliers I bought have no trouble at all pulling the m4 ones

Cheers.
Ben

[Ben_O]

You'll need those riv nut pliers again soon Ben

When I ordered the flush fitting riv nuts for this one, I ordered extra to accommodate yours too so we're all sorted :)

 
I was going to ask which rivnuts were used for the arches to allow a flush fit. Are they the countersunk ones or reduced head ?

I believe they are called flush fitting riv nuts and the heads sit more or less flush with the body.
The normal type aren't suitable for these arches as they cause the arch to sit off the body slightly.

Cheers
Ben

[I hate Brian]

Another great looking build Ben!

[MikeRotherham]

Hi Ben,

 

Looking ahead a bit, do you put any kind if sealant between some of the rubber seals and the body flange?

 

I'm thinking specifically of the rear side window seals and the door seals.

 

Previously when I washed the car, after the washing bit and before towelling it off, I'd free the bottom end of the door seals and allow them to hang outside the car to allow a fair amount of water to drain away. It seems like water would get between the rubber seal and body flange and wondered if applying some kind of semi permanent sealant before pushing the seal home on the flange would prevent this?

 

Also, did you notice a small dark brown plastic wedge jammed into the base of the each rear side window seal. If they were lost no matter I have more. The wedges lift the window glass when you tighten the catch. This centres the glass and provides a perfect seal it also stops the glass dropping when releasing the catch as was happening and fouling the body causing it to eventually rust. Crude but seems to work.

Edited by MikeRotherham, 01 October 2021 - 09:29 AM.

[Ben_O]

I haven't used any type of sealer in the past on the sealing rubbers but nearly always use new seals after a restoration so haven't seen the need to.
It's interesting that you have said it's an improvement to and I can certainly use some non setting Windscreen sealant if you would like.
However, if you like to lift off the seal and let hang, this might be a problem and you'll end up with the sealer everywhere when you remove them.
The choice is yours.

I did notice the plastic pieces but I dknt think they were saved.

Cheers
Ben

[I hate Brian]

Hi Ben can you post a picture and manufacturers name of the flush fitting riv-nuts please ?

 

 

 

You'll need those riv nut pliers again soon Ben

When I ordered the flush fitting riv nuts for this one, I ordered extra to accommodate yours too so we're all sorted :)

 
I was going to ask which rivnuts were used for the arches to allow a flush fit. Are they the countersunk ones or reduced head ?

I believe they are called flush fitting riv nuts and the heads sit more or less flush with the body.
The normal type aren't suitable for these arches as they cause the arch to sit off the body slightly.

Cheers
Ben

 

[MikeRotherham]

I haven't used any type of sealer in the past on the sealing rubbers but nearly always use new seals after a restoration so haven't seen the need to.
It's interesting that you have said it's an improvement to and I can certainly use some non setting Windscreen sealant if you would like.
However, if you like to lift off the seal and let hang, this might be a problem and you'll end up with the sealer everywhere when you remove them.
The choice is yours.


Cheers
Ben

I just wondered if you used sealant as a matter of course and whether using sealant would stop the corrosion that you found on the passenger side door step and necessitated its replacement. We do have one big thing in our favour however. The car will be a lot better painted than the factory were able to.

 

I only used to free off the ends of the seals because I was aware that water was getting behind. If I decide to fit an MPI carpet and use the appropriate seal I won't be able to continue to do that. Thinking about it now though the upper and side flanges of the door aperture always stayed clean and rust free only the bottom flange area seemed to be affected.

 

If you have anything available that is suitable just apply it to the side window seals before fitting. Don't get anything in specially as you seem confident that it isn't needed and that answers my original concern.

 

Mike.