196 replies to this topic

[Ben_O]

I've now reskinned the drivers door



And offered it up to the car







Whilst the doors are fitted, I marked the positions of the wiring loom boots on the a posts and drilled them.







I've been asked to weld the gap between the front and rear sections of the gutters as the trim is not going back and he doesn't want any sharp edges.





And I did the same the other side as well as rectifying the minor rust issue







And the it was just the prep work to do down the sides.





Cheers
Ben

[Ben_O]

I've now sanded back back bulk if the roof and back panel

[floormanager]

Better hurry up!  Mine's over in three weeks!

[JXC Mini GT]

Better hurry up!  Mine's over in three weeks!

What are you having done?

[floormanager]

Bit of a bit of a tidy up underneath.  Paint on the sills re-done, grill fitted more professionally, a new steering rack as it's got a bit of play. Wheels re-painted and new tyres plus some other bits and pieces.  It's like the Forth Road Bridge!

[Ben_O]

[Ben_O]

Afternoon all.

I have been prepping the inside of the shell today.
I had hoped to get the prep finished and the primer on but it's taken far longer than anticipated to get all of the wax out from everywhere.
It's almost ready now though.











Cheers
Ben

[Ben_O]

Well thats the last of the primer to go on the shell.









Time to sort out the last few bits now starting with the boolid





Cheers
Ben

[Crazy]

Super updates as usual Ben, something I like seeing is when it hits the primer stage as you know the colour is not far behind think its the excitement of it all. 

 

on another note I've found that loom you mentioned it's actually still in the shell.

[Ben_O]

I've not got off to a great start this week. A couple of jobs needing doing on other vehicles have escalated meaning time on the mini has been reduced.
Anywayz I digress.

I've prepped the bonnet for primer





That then got primed along with the bootlid, bonnet hinges and seam trims

Next up, I started drilling the fresh new bodywork.
First lot are for the standard black arch trims.
I've got a load of M4 flush fitting rivnuts and black dome head machine screws



Holes marked and drilled



And arch trim trial fitted



I moved onto the next one but broke my riv nut pliers after the second instalation so am waiting for replacements.
I did mark and drill the holes ready though.

Bonnet back on next



I offered the grille and trims up and marked the holes as these will be secured with the riv nuts and screws too.
Failed to take a picture though so I'll do that tomorrow.

The only other thing I managed was to drill the hole for the wing mounted area





Plan is to hit it hard for the rest of the week and see how far we get.
I wanted it painted by Friday but thats close now and I have no intention of rushing it.

Cheers
Ben

[MikeRotherham]

That bonnet gap is excellent!

 

Despite my best efforts adjusting the striker plate the bonnet used to move the best part of 1/2" to the left when I pushed it down to latch against the slam panel.

Edited by MikeRotherham, 28 September 2021 - 06:23 PM.

[Cooper Mac]

What is the best way to adjust the bonnet for alignment and to latch properly? I removed my bonnet, and despite marking it before I removed it, I just can’t get it to line up or latch properly.

[MikeRotherham]

Hi Ben, do you routinely put some rubber seal between the wheel arch and metal?

 

Previously, the wheel arches had rubbed the paint off the body where they made contact due to vibration.

[Ben_O]

What is the best way to adjust the bonnet for alignment and to latch properly? I removed my bonnet, and despite marking it before I removed it, I just can’t get it to line up or latch properly.

All of the adjustment is done on the bonnet lock itself by slackening the bolts that secure it to the slam panel.
I like to clean off all the grease from where the pin locks into it and then stick a piece of masking tape over it.
Then lower the bonnet gently so that the pin makes contact with the tape.
This will then leave a witness mark which you can use to move the lock plate until the pin falls nicely in the centre of the lock.
Then you can also adjust the reach of the pin by screwing it in and out to suit. You want just enough reach to latch but not so much that the bonnet can rattle when locked.
Also, not enough reach will make it hard to close and cause it to spring violently open when released

Hi Ben, do you routinely put some rubber seal between the wheel arch and metal?

Previously, the wheel arches had rubbed the paint off the body where they made contact due to vibration.

I've not done this before unless requested as it can look a bit odd but if you would like me to use some on your car, I can certainly do that.
Just let me know.

Cheers
Ben

Edited by Ben_O, 29 September 2021 - 08:28 AM.

[MikeRotherham]

HI Ben,

 

If you don't normally then don't this time.

 

The fastenings are more substantial than pop rivets so may do a better job holding the arch against the body.

 

Next time I remove the arches to check for rust and to clean I'll assess if the rubber seals are needed.