34 replies to this topic

[bluedragon]

Here in North America, these fuels have been the standard for over 15 years and widely available for more than 20.

 

Despite the fear-mongering (which continues to this day) there wasn't a mass of classic car failures after the introduction. Some for sure, but not a swath of failed carbureted machinery.

 

The biggest issues as far as I know are these:

 

1) The car may run lean on E10. This is because it is already oxygen enriched from the additive. In these cases, the fuel system may need to be retuned (typically for a SU carburetor, a richer needle.)

 

2) The alcohol may attack rubber seals and parts, but by now, those parts would likely be either very low-quality replacements, or originals from the vintage days. Which may not have much more of a lifespan left anyway. 

 

3) My belief is that it causes the joins in brass SU floats to deteriorate and leak. Still, it won't be a instant process - it probably takes years for them to start leaking. The earliest ones I replaced 5 or 6 years ago are still holding up, and the bowls have always been full the whole time. An alternative would be to use the nitrophyll floats.

 

4) MPi Minis will have no problems at all - I operated mine for a decade+ and many tens of thousands of miles exclusively on oxygenated fuel without the slightest driveability or mechanical issue. When I get it back together from rust repairs I expect it to run tens of thousands of miles more.

 

5) I just did a back to back test, where I drove the outgoing leg of a 500 mile round trip on e10 in a triple SU carbureted E-type and the return leg on non-oxygenated (E10) fuel, which can be had at selected pumps for a considerable premium in price. I saw absolutely no difference in driveability or performance, everything operated the same.

 

Perhaps it could be possible to retune the car for non-E10 and see a difference, but as I have never before put non-E10 in it before (ran two tankfuls when I did) it's not worth the trouble for me.

 

If it can still be had, for winter storage it might be useful to fill up with non-E10. But I have had no issues running E10 in any of the cars I own, modern or vintage.

 

 

Dave

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

There's a good book by Paul Ireland where he's experimented with different fuels for classic cars.  He focuses mostly on the high volatility of modern fuels and talks about the need to keep heat away from the fuel system as much as possible.  He finds little disadvantage to ethanol fuels.  I enjoyed the book and learned much but still prefer ethanol free super unleaded from Esso in mine.

 

https://www.amazon.c...38823528&sr=8-1

Edited by unburntfuelinthemorning, 06 December 2021 - 08:52 PM.

[croc7]

Just wondering if anybody has thoughts about e10 fuel coming in September this year ? How will it affect our old cars, I read that cars with variable jet carbs are OK but other carburettors will have problems, also the ethanol will rot fuel tanks and fuel lines.....!


ALLAN

Depending on the company or individual gas station, here in Washington state ethanol content could vary between 10% and 15%, has been that way for at least the last 10 years.  I use the ethanol resistant fuel lines from Gates and treat the fuel with a product called StaBil which is supposed to help with the effects of ethanol 'enhanced' fuel in the tank.  I've experienced no problems with fuel lines or carbs.

[coopertaz]

considering usa has had e10 for years they should be best for info on what they do with their cars, anyone on here in usa or anyone with contacts?

[croc7]

considering usa has had e10 for years they should be best for info on what they do with their cars, anyone on here in usa or anyone with contacts?

Washington state is located in the upper left hand corner of the USA. There are a few gas stations here that offer ethanol-free fuel but at a considerable mark-up(about 25%). Still, using quality rubber fuel lines and using some sort of fuel stabilizer has worked for me.