35 replies to this topic

[AlasdairM]

 9F05DFA2-A888-44E6-9793-CD4F67C86CB0.jpeg   62.1K   1 downloads

Yeah my housing looks like this, so I’m a bit worried it will need a lot of washers/longer bolts etc.

[nicklouse]

If you are going to add a stabiliser at the Rad end then get the DSN one don’t bother with any of the others they are just a pain and are crap.

 

https://www.dsnclass...-big-bore-long/

 

don’t forget the spacer that is mentioned in the text.

[AlasdairM]

Do I need to drop the engine/subframe to replace the front-rear subframe mounts? Or can I just jack the body up, and hope I can wiggle the old mounts out? 

 

thanks

[Spherix]

I've done them without loosening the tower bolts, by having two people; one tries to put bolts through the holes, while the other levers with a screwdriver/tire iron. There's often quite a bit of force on them in situ, so it's not an easy job by yourself. Don't hammer any bolts through as you'll damage the thread.

[MMM1965]

Changing the whole rack isn't too difficult a job really, just take your time, follow the haynes manual and you can't go wrong really. If i can do it anyone can do it honestly.

[ac427]

Do I need to drop the engine/subframe to replace the front-rear subframe mounts? Or can I just jack the body up, and hope I can wiggle the old mounts out? 

 

thanks

 

A bit late but...

 

When i let the clutch in on gear changes the was a bang. It turned out the lower engine steady bar had failed at one of the ends. It looked fine in situ but with a bit of prying you could see where it had broken off at one end.

 

As standard i think there are two engine steadies, one on the top at the flywheel end and the other below at the water pump end of the engine.

 

I replaced that the lower one and added one on the other side. i didn't bother with the thermostat end top engine steady because of the extra work involved, instead of just bolting something on.