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Valve Spring Compressor


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#1 Elwyn

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Posted 08 May 2021 - 03:26 PM

Hello

 

1993 L reg SPI Cooper, manual

 

I bought a Mini Spares valve spring compressor

Turns out it's by Sykes Pickavant

 

The instructions are for a slightly different compressor, referring to parts I don't have

 

This is what I have : TOOL05 - Mini valve spring compressor (minispares.com)

 

It should be simple

The open end (adjustable) around the top of the valve / top caps

The G clamp adjustable end against the corresponding valve

Tighten the G clamp alike thing

Spring compresses

Collets become accessible

Pop them off

Done

And repeat

 

However...

 

Using Tool05, with the G clamp alike thing at it's tightest, the valve springs either don't move at all or they move nowhere near enough to get at the collets

 

There's plenty of thread on the G clamp alike thing, but not where I need them

Presumably fine for a deeper cylinder head

But I bought it for a mini from Mini Spares, so you'd think it would be right?

 

And having only tackled one, with Tool05 fresh out of the packet, the winding lever (small and feeble) is already significantly bent

 

What am I doing wrong?

 

As always, I tried swearing first

And second

Then this

 

Thanks in advance

 

Elwyn

 



#2 imack

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Posted 08 May 2021 - 03:47 PM

The 'winding lever' would never be turned while any tension is on it,so it shouldn't get bent, it's only for setting the distance between the pad that contacts the valve head and the fork on the spring cap.
You did tap the valve caps with a hammer didn't you to break the seal between collets and caps?
Set the screw thread to the required length with the 'winding handle' and crank the lever to compress the valve springs. You only compress the springs 1/4" or so, just enough to extract the collets.

Attached Files


Edited by imack, 08 May 2021 - 05:01 PM.


#3 Elwyn

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Posted 08 May 2021 - 03:58 PM

All hit and walloped

I'll hit and wallop things again

With the crank lever open the G lamp thing is miles away from the bottom of the valve

I'll set the G clamp lever winder at its almost tightest then try again using the crank (larger handle) to make the compression

That's not what the instructions say to do, but following the instructions doesn't work!

It's also not what the mini youtubers seem to do, and they have great success

Meanwhile, back in the real world, in the rain.....here I go again

Thanks imack



#4 sonscar

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Posted 08 May 2021 - 03:58 PM

Do this at your own risk as it could increase the danger.Put a suitable block on the valve head and close the tool with the handles not the screw,practice makes perfect.Have fun,Steve..

#5 nicklouse

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Posted 08 May 2021 - 04:20 PM

Those have been around for years and I have been using one since the 80s 

 

have it like the picture put on head compress. Waggle fork end bit so you can fish the collets out.



#6 Spherix

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Posted 08 May 2021 - 04:58 PM

Ive used a similar one on the Mini head, I've simply clamped it on as you mentioned, and then slowly turn the adjustable end of the g clamp until the collets are shown enough to grab with a magnet pen.

#7 Bobbins

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Posted 09 May 2021 - 05:44 AM

For info ....

One of these is really useful to remove the collets: https://www.ebay.co....w4AAOSw1xFgYI4n

When refitting, a small dab of grease on the inside of the collet plus the same on the end of a non-magnetic screwdriver to "carry" the collet will help position them.

Edited by Bobbins, 09 May 2021 - 05:50 AM.


#8 Elwyn

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Posted 09 May 2021 - 10:30 AM

Thanks all. I wound the g clamp thing to it’s tightest point, put it in place, pulled the larger handle to compress, and it was nowhere near tight enough. As if the valve compressor tool is simply too big. So I used an increasing number of very thick washers / spacers at the valve head end. And it worked a treat. Waggled a bit to loosen collets. Removed all valves. Great. Still baffled why it didn’t do the job without the extra spacers but never mind. Onto the next job now. And it’s not raining. Yet.
Thanks again.

#9 Elwyn

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Posted 09 May 2021 - 11:36 AM

For info ....

One of these is really useful to remove the collets: https://www.ebay.co....w4AAOSw1xFgYI4n

When refitting, a small dab of grease on the inside of the collet plus the same on the end of a non-magnetic screwdriver to "carry" the collet will help position them.



#10 Elwyn

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Posted 09 May 2021 - 11:37 AM

Thanks for the grease tip
I was pondering how to get the little blighters back in as I was fiddling them out!

#11 Elwyn

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Posted 09 May 2021 - 11:37 AM

Ive used a similar one on the Mini head, I've simply clamped it on as you mentioned, and then slowly turn the adjustable end of the g clamp until the collets are shown enough to grab with a magnet pen.



#12 Elwyn

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Posted 09 May 2021 - 11:39 AM

That’s what the instructions said to do, but it wasn’t working. The winder lever was bending and the whole thing was nowhere near tight enough. I followed the alternate advice on here, adapted it with washers / spacers and got there in the end.

#13 Bobbins

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Posted 09 May 2021 - 01:44 PM

First head I ever rebuilt years ago, I didn’t have a valve spring compressor so had to be resourceful ...

Cylinder head positioned on the workbench with a small block of wood under the valve head, appropriate size of paint tin to match the height of the bench to spring cap distance, then an open ended spanner bridging the tin and head to compress the valve, lean down heavily on the spanner and pop the collets out. How I didn’t lose any collets (or teeth!) I’ll never know, but it worked!

Same rebuild I fabricated a ring compressor from a beer can and some jubilee clips, it worked a treat. Unsurprisingly I now have more tools than I have space to keep them!

#14 Spherix

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Posted 11 May 2021 - 07:46 AM

Now that you mention it, I do recall using a socket on the valve end as a spacer! Completely forgot. As I didn't buy it specifically from a Mini shop I figured that was just something I had to deal with as I bought it cheap.



#15 Elwyn

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Posted 11 May 2021 - 12:12 PM

Glad I'm not alone






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