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Clutch Master Cylinder


Best Answer se7enmvu , 28 February 2021 - 08:52 PM

Turns out the clutch was seized.

I jacked up the front and supported it on axel stands.

Then I started the engine and ran it upto 40mph in 3rd. With the the clutch pedal pressed I stamped on the the brakes. This was enough to break the pressure plate/clutch plate free Go to the full post


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#16 lordcakes

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 10:01 PM

I had a similar problem with a low pedal. I suspected a linkage or slave issue as no amount of bleeding or pumping improved it. Although I had previously replaced the clevis pins I had not replaced the plunger or arm so I ended up renewing all moving parts and rebuilding the slave. I also found that the bleed nipple did not seal well unless very tight (when using a vacuum bleeder). There was only slight wear on all parts but the cumative effect was to make the bite point low. With the new parts fitted, the pedal is back to where it should be.

This may not be your issue but please check the wear on your clevis pins, arm and slave pushrod to eliminate this.

Note that my original arm and plunger were off an 80000 mile, 35 year old engine so were well used even though they looked in reasonable shape.

#17 bpirie1000

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Posted 12 February 2021 - 11:33 AM

I would suggest removing the bell housing having a look at the release bearing and the end float on the crank shaft. Make sure all is in order..

Gearbox selectors also wear..... just so your aware it could be the selector forks....

(Fairly sure it will be the clutch arm ball that haas worn though..)rip that out and post a pic

#18 se7enmvu

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Posted 14 February 2021 - 01:07 PM

Curiosity got the better of me so yesterday I had another go.
I backed off the two locknuts and manually bled the clutch.
There's an 8mm gap now instead of the 6.5mm and the clutch still isn't engaging.
The hydraulics have all been replaced for new and I'm confident no air is left in the system.
So I guess I'm going to have to have a look at the clutch. The engine/box is 38years old with only 5,000 miles so mechanically it should be ok unless something has failed due to age/lack of use.
I've never changed a clutch but I guess whatever is supposed to move on the inside isn't.

#19 bpirie1000

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Posted 14 February 2021 - 03:42 PM

If it has sat for a while unused... try rocking it in gear with ign off...

Maybe clutch is stuck to the plate...

#20 se7enmvu

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Posted 14 February 2021 - 06:35 PM

If it has sat for a while unused... try rocking it in gear with ign off...

Maybe clutch is stuck to the plate...


The engine hadn't been run for probably
8 months. I pushed it up and down the drive this afternoon whilst in 3rd gear and it still won't let me select a gear.

The clutch feels very light. Almost as like its not pressing on anything inside the clutch cover.

#21 bpirie1000

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Posted 14 February 2021 - 08:00 PM

Could be a sping on the plate or many many other things.. whip off the engine mount and bell housing see what we have and we can take it from there..

Your never alone when the mini forum has your back...

#22 se7enmvu

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Posted 26 February 2021 - 09:50 PM

Had some time today and as the weather was nice I decided to have another go.

I removed the bell housing and to me everything seems to be OK. Although I don't really know what I'm looking at.

Here's some pics if anyone can assist?Attached File  20210226_165058.jpg   50.31K   0 downloads
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Attached File  20210226_165138.jpg   54.99K   1 downloads
Attached File  20210226_165146.jpg   51.19K   3 downloads
Attached File  20210226_165206.jpg   59.9K   3 downloads

#23 lordcakes

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Posted 26 February 2021 - 10:08 PM

Take your split pin out and then remove the clevis pin connecting the arm to the cover. Check for clevis pin wear. Check for wear on the ball on the end of the arm. Check for wear in the hole in the plunger. Also check for wear in the clevis pin that holds the pushrod to the arm. That's should give you an idea about the condition of the linkage. I'm sure someone else can tell you more about the clutch and what to look for.

#24 nicklouse

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Posted 27 February 2021 - 01:52 AM

As above strip and inspect the pins and the arm for wear.

 

while you have it all in bits please count the teeth on the flywheel and the teeth on the starter. As you have a possible mismatch there.

 

tooth count will clarify the situation.



#25 floormanager

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Posted 27 February 2021 - 08:45 AM

As above strip and inspect the pins and the arm for wear.

 

while you have it all in bits please count the teeth on the flywheel and the teeth on the starter. As you have a possible mismatch there.

 

tooth count will clarify the situation.

Good spot



#26 floormanager

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Posted 27 February 2021 - 08:46 AM

Take your split pin out and then remove the clevis pin connecting the arm to the cover. Check for clevis pin wear. Check for wear on the ball on the end of the arm. Check for wear in the hole in the plunger. Also check for wear in the clevis pin that holds the pushrod to the arm. That's should give you an idea about the condition of the linkage. I'm sure someone else can tell you more about the clutch and what to look for.

Now you've done the hard part getting it all off just replace it all.  It's cheap and easy to get to when it's off.



#27 se7enmvu

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Posted 28 February 2021 - 08:07 AM

I'm going to look abit deeper into it today. Starting with the linkage.
How will the number of teeth affect clutch operation? The car starts and runs just fine. It's just the clutch operation which is preventing it going into gear.

#28 floormanager

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Posted 28 February 2021 - 09:03 AM

I'm going to look abit deeper into it today. Starting with the linkage.
How will the number of teeth affect clutch operation? The car starts and runs just fine. It's just the clutch operation which is preventing it going into gear.

I think the OP was suggesting that while you can, count the teeth and get the right starter for your flywheel ring gear before doing more damage.  Nothing to do with the clutch operation but you might need to take it all off and replace the ring if you leave it.



#29 nicklouse

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Posted 28 February 2021 - 11:01 AM

I'm going to look abit deeper into it today. Starting with the linkage.
How will the number of teeth affect clutch operation? The car starts and runs just fine. It's just the clutch operation which is preventing it going into gear.

So you know should you ever need to change parts. As you have parts that are not a standard fit. You have a Verto flywheel assy but you don’t have the starter that is normally used with a Verto flywheel assy.

 

If you come to change either without knowing what you actually  have you may find that what was working no longer works.



#30 se7enmvu

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Posted 28 February 2021 - 03:08 PM

Well my starter is a 10 tooth which according to minispares is wrong. However I'm pretty sure it's the original due to the cars history and the date code.
But it's something to bare in mind if I ever have starting issues.

Back to the clutch. I've cleaned out he grease and reassembled. There is no play in the mechanism.

So from pedal to plunger everything is in order and prior to my latest strip down was giving 8.5mm movement.

So the issue has to be release bearing on? There's a witness mark on the thrust collar although I'm not sure how old it is. Could the spring of the clutch fingers have relaxed?




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