12 replies to this topic

[Austinmini1966]

Converting a MK1 66 from wet to dry. Changed the radius arms to dry ones. Could someone please confirm that I will therefore need dry handbrake cables? Trying to work out what the difference between the two cables are and can only assume its length?

 

Many thanks 

[MiniMadRacer]

If I recall corectly, (chances are I dont) the cable runs are different on a Hydo to a dry car, so chances are they are a differnt length.

[Ethel]

Question is, where's the difference and have you changed something relevent that'd require also changing the cable.

 

I wouldn't know, but I note there's a different handbrake quadrant listed. Does that suggest it has something to with clearance for the hydro pipes? Surely not an issue if you don't have any: expect you just need a cable that matches the quad to have the cable "nipple" in the right place.

[Spider]

Just checking across a couple of earlier parts Books, they did use the same Cables on Wet and Dry. Vans and Pick-up have different cables as they have a longer wheel base.

I wonder if the difference that's been picked up is between the early twin cable arrangement and the later single cable ?

[DUF2]

Converting a MK1 66 from wet to dry. Changed the radius arms to dry ones. Could someone please confirm that I will therefore need dry handbrake cables? Trying to work out what the difference between the two cables are and can only assume its length?

 

Many thanks 

Did you ever get this problem bottomed out?

I have a ‘65 Elf, originally wet, but converted to dry long before I bought the car.

the handbrake is rubbish, the quadrants had been fitted (not by me!) the wrong way round, I have corrected  this but the handbrake is still rubbish, the adjusting nuts at the handbrake lever are along way down the threads, not what one would expect with new cables.

I am guessing I have the wrong cables!

[bpirie1000]

Converting a MK1 66 from wet to dry. Changed the radius arms to dry ones. Could someone please confirm that I will therefore need dry handbrake cables? Trying to work out what the difference between the two cables are and can only assume its length?
 
Many thanks

Did you ever get this problem bottomed out?
I have a ‘65 Elf, originally wet, but converted to dry long before I bought the car.
the handbrake is rubbish, the quadrants had been fitted (not by me!) the wrong way round, I have corrected  this but the handbrake is still rubbish, the adjusting nuts at the handbrake lever are along way down the threads, not what one would expect with new cables.
I am guessing I have the wrong cables!

Not necessarily the wrong cables.

I personally would wind the leaver end (in between the seats) back to next to nothing... then make sure quadrants all move freely and lube as required...then adjust the drums out to what is required on the back plate.

Then use the one between the seats for fine tuning. Usually stick to 3 or 4 clicks on the ratchet.

Totally a personal thing though..

[DUF2]

 

 

Converting a MK1 66 from wet to dry. Changed the radius arms to dry ones. Could someone please confirm that I will therefore need dry handbrake cables? Trying to work out what the difference between the two cables are and can only assume its length?
 
Many thanks

Did you ever get this problem bottomed out?
I have a ‘65 Elf, originally wet, but converted to dry long before I bought the car.
the handbrake is rubbish, the quadrants had been fitted (not by me!) the wrong way round, I have corrected  this but the handbrake is still rubbish, the adjusting nuts at the handbrake lever are along way down the threads, not what one would expect with new cables.
I am guessing I have the wrong cables!

Not necessarily the wrong cables.

I personally would wind the leaver end (in between the seats) back to next to nothing... then make sure quadrants all move freely and lube as required...then adjust the drums out to what is required on the back plate.

Then use the one between the seats for fine tuning. Usually stick to 3 or 4 clicks on the ratchet.

Totally a personal thing though..

 

I have been trying for a while to get the handbrake to work effectively. New cables, drums, linings, wheel cylinders etc. I then discovered that the quadrants had been fitted the wrong way round, prior to me getting the car.

I have corrected these and thought that would be it, but the handbrake is still 5hite. I suspect I have the wrong cables fitted, but have not yet had the time to check them. The lever when pulled to around 2 clicks is solid, normally there is a little bit of “give” as the cables stretch a wee bit, so something is wrong.

[andyapanel]

Is this rear?
There is a lever inside the rear brake drum assembly that can give these symptoms . It is a simple job.
Good luck

[bpirie1000]

Good shout Andyapanel above.

Remove the drum (give it a light sand paper down along with the brake shoes. Then, the bit that the handbrake brake cable goes to on the backplate....make sure that is all free and there are no excessive gaps. Oh and make,sure shoes are right way round... common problem...

[DUF2]

Good shout Andyapanel above.

Remove the drum (give it a light sand paper down along with the brake shoes. Then, the bit that the handbrake brake cable goes to on the backplate....make sure that is all free and there are no excessive gaps. Oh and make,sure shoes are right way round... common problem...

Thanks for that.

The drums and the linings are new, also the correct way around. I did adjust the linings a tad too tight, so the drums got VERY hot, so the linings should now be bedded in! The drums were free once they had cooled down. But the handbrake lever is still solid and does not lock the wheels, this is why I’m convinced I must have the wrong cables. I must get under the car and check these, I’m getting too lazy in my old age!

[DUF2]

I have found the problem, the springs on the cables on the backplate are becoming coil bound, which is preventing moment of the arm which moves the shoes onto the drum.

 IMG_2457.jpeg   79.17K   0 downloads

I was going to shorten the spring but I am not happy with the cables so have ordered new one, I suspect these are wet cables, bought quite some time ago.

[growlerbearnz]

To me, the brake lever looks further forward than it should be. [Edit: Of course I realise you have the handbrake engaged in that photo]

For an initial brake setup (when fitting new shoes, drums, etc) my method is: 
-Disconnect the handbrake cable from the arm by removing the clevis pin (pictured)
-Adjust the brake shoes until you can hear them *just* touching the drum when you spin the wheel
-Stomp on the brake pedal sharply a couple of times (re-centres the brake shoes)
-Check that the shoes still *just* touch the drums (adjust if needed)
-Lightly push the arm forwards to remove any play (not hard enough to move the brake shoes) 
-Adjust the handbrake cable length until the clevis pin can be dropped into place

Edited by growlerbearnz, 19 August 2023 - 08:37 PM.

[Lplus]

To me, the brake lever looks further forward than it should be. 

For an initial brake setup (when fitting new shoes, drums, etc) my method is: 
-Disconnect the handbrake cable from the arm by removing the clevis pin (pictured)
-Adjust the brake shoes until you can hear them *just* touching the drum when you spin the wheel
-Stomp on the brake pedal sharply a couple of times (re-centres the brake shoes)
-Check that the shoes still *just* touch the drums (adjust if needed)
-Lightly push the arm forwards to remove any play (not hard enough to move the brake shoes) 
-Adjust the handbrake cable length until the clevis pin can be dropped into place

This - the most important point being that the handbrake cables must be completely slack whilst adjusting the shoes, such that the levers are as far back as they can go. 

 

ETA the handbrake operating levers are actually handed though I'm not sure if fitting them on the wrong sides makes a huge difference.

Edited by Lplus, 16 August 2023 - 07:46 AM.