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Distributor Position Problem.


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#1 CityKie

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Posted 30 January 2021 - 03:18 PM

hey there, I recently got my engine back from the builder ( yes the one I was just gonna stuff in the car and use) they set it up on a bench dyno, pretty happy 132bhp and122ib/ft on a "run in" tune.

 

I've now started building up the cooling, boost and clutch etc. ready for fitting into the subframe.

 

I've hit few problems, I've over come most but after fitting the starter motor I've noticed the distributor vacuum bowl(not sure of the name) needs to be where the starter motor is to line up the timing marks left by the engine builders.

 

The Vacuum bowl is at the lowest point of the distributor, I did a little googling and I see the bowl is supposed to be near the highest point on the dizzy....

 

I basically need to rotate the dizzy to get it to fit but this will totally screw the timing.

 

1 picture is a close as I can get it to the timing marks with the starter in place, is still needs to go anticlockwise about 15 degrees to line up 

 

 

2nd picture this is where I'd like it to be

 

 

Can anyone help more out with some options. I'd hate to ruin the tune, it was around £400 for the dyno set up and testing.

 

 

thank you Kieran 

 

 

 

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#2 imack

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Posted 30 January 2021 - 03:26 PM

The dizzy drives been fitted incorrectly. Remove dizzy, set engine to tdc, remove and refit dizzy drive in correct orientation as per Haynes manual, refit dizzy and reset ignition timing.
Put fan on right way round while you've got the spanners out too.

#3 CityKie

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Posted 30 January 2021 - 05:22 PM

thank you that was an easy fix :) cheers K


Edited by CityKie, 30 January 2021 - 05:22 PM.


#4 MiniMadRacer

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Posted 30 January 2021 - 05:24 PM

Thats a lot of power



#5 Spider

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Posted 30 January 2021 - 06:19 PM

I'd suggest first checking if the Distributor Drive has been fitted correctly and then sorting that. It maybe correct, but that they have just fitted the Distributor index 90 degrees to the normal fitting angle or both.



#6 nicklouse

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Posted 30 January 2021 - 07:24 PM

thank you that was an easy fix :) cheers K

And you have refitted the fan the right way now?



#7 Tones61

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Posted 30 January 2021 - 07:47 PM

What's the full spec of engine for 132 nags ?

#8 CityKie

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Posted 31 January 2021 - 10:44 AM

The fan is on my list ! :)

 

It's an MG metro turbo engine opened up to 1293 with a flowed head, fusion fab manifold with a gt1752 turbo, red rollers, 264t cam. Avonbar turbo dizzy, rebuilt by Scholar engines in Suffolk with the g/box build by Mr Guessworks. Its running 13psi at the moment, i plan to bring that down to 10ish and then get the power back from tuning the timing once run in. The £550 I bought the engine for has increased x10 in costs but it should be an absolute stormer once in the car. 

 

I hadn't factored in how difficult it would be to find space for the boost pipes, new oil cooler and extra oil and water supply for the turbo. I'm finally making progress, it'll ramp up once the weather warms up.



#9 MiniMadRacer

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Posted 31 January 2021 - 11:07 AM

Ahhh the Turbo explains the power, thanks



#10 DomCr250

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Posted 31 January 2021 - 12:17 PM

Normally its a few teeth out or 180 degrees out.

 

The first ever 1275 I built I did the same thing, just timed up it on no1 cylinder, worked out which lead position it pointed to on the disty and left it like that.

 

If you do decide to remove the distributor drive (to set it correctly) make 100% sure the bolt that you screw in is well in place - you can drop the drive into the gearbox by mistake, then it's split the cases to get it out.



#11 CityKie

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Posted 01 February 2021 - 06:17 PM

 

If you do decide to remove the distributor drive (to set it correctly) make 100% sure the bolt that you screw in is well in place - you can drop the drive into the gearbox by mistake, then it's split the cases to get it out.

 

I used my pinky finger ! think I dodged a bullet !! 






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