15 replies to this topic

[Bearddude]

Hi, I’m about to begin ownership of a 70s Morris mini van which has a spotless underbody as in showroom clean. I’m going to be using the vehicle much more than the current owner and one of the first jobs I want to do is some underbody rust protection. There seem to be lots of different opinions about what the best treatment is (more thoughts welcome) but I like the look of Raptor, which seems to be flexible and pretty resilient and has the added bonus of colour selection. Has anyone got any experience of using Raptor and, if so, how do you rate it? Thanks.

[MiNiKiN]

If you want to ruin the pristine look and hide any developing rust until it's too late use Raptor. IMO Raptor is the successor to the unholy bitumen undercoatings of the seventies.

If you really want to protect the underbody and the cavities (which you cannot with Raptor) use some good 'ol Waxoyl or FluidFilm. Check and touch-up every other year and Bob's your auntie.

[Mike D]

Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 in the cavities, and Dynax UB underneath. They also do a semi clear Dynax UC if you're really worries about keeping it body colour.

[Vanman20]

Raptor is the latest fashion.

Is it any good ? I don't know,just seems to be a very thick stonechip coating.

A restorer on youtube I follow doesn't think much of it.

https://youtu.be/2ElO4gyV6aY

[Bearddude]

Thanks for those replies - that was the kind of informed feedback I was hoping for. Much appreciated! I’ve used waxoyl in the past but like the sound (and reviews) of the Bilt Hamber Dynax range.

[Ben_O]

It is just a very hard wearing flexible stone guard coating.
It comes in black or tintable to the colour of your choice.

I've used it a few times with good results but it is very heavy so 1 coat is plenty.

I disagree with the comparison to brush on bitumen coatings, this is nothing like that whatsoever and I'm unsure what the comment about covering developing rust means..
Covering developing rust with any protective coating isnt a good idea and wont prevent it getting worse

This product is something that I would only ever consider using to protect a new or totally repaired underside and for that, it's perfectly fine.

You wanted an opinion from someone who has used it..
I have and I say it's a good product however if you are going to use it on your van, you would want to consider stripping the sub frames and everything out to get everything covered properly and prep it properly

Cheers
Ben

Edited by Ben_O, 15 January 2021 - 06:53 PM.

[mm man]

I have used it quite a few times .

Raptor is just stone chip ( of old 1k air dry) but now with a 2k hardener .

I did some test years ago when it came out just got some stone chip added some universal hardener and Bobs your uncle .

It’s like any paint process it’s all in the prep but a lot of people use it as a quick fix and put it over bad repairs and rusty steel.

 

Don’t know why it posted it 3 times ??.?.

Edited by mm man, 15 January 2021 - 07:20 PM.

[mm man]

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Edited by mm man, 15 January 2021 - 07:10 PM.

[mm man]

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Edited by mm man, 15 January 2021 - 07:10 PM.

[Daz1968]

I used rapter tinted on my mk2, very good. I did prepare underside with epoxy mastic prior to coating, it saves having to overcoat when using gravitex and being 2k doesn’t have same reaction problems as gravitex, any coating is only as good as what’s underneath so preparation is key to getting a good result. Blasting is best as the epoxy gets a good key to hold onto, but I used p80 on a da to get a good surface. I would use again, but I still used cavity wax inside all sections, dinitrol is good I hope.

[MiNiKiN]

I disagree with the comparison to brush on bitumen coatings, this is nothing like that whatsoever and I'm unsure what the comment about covering developing rust means..
Covering developing rust with any protective coating isnt a good idea and wont prevent it getting worse

Cheers
Ben

Ben, I wasn't saying to cover developing rust with Raptor, I meant that if over time hailrline cracks develop in the thick coating, they act as a water trap and rust can develop in disguise until it is too late.

I just say that to cover the underbody or whatever in thick coat is bad practice, usually is  cover-up of dodgy repair work underneath and generally de-values any car treated with this sort of stuff.

 

But do whatever you like - I'd personally never buy a classic car with this sort of coating. Rust is way easier to keep in control if you can see it with the underbody just painted and waxoyled.

[sonscar]

I am always amazed by new cars,my 12 year old KIA is painted underneath with what looks like primer and there is no rust,what do they use?Steve..

[Globule]

I am always amazed by new cars,my 12 year old KIA is painted underneath with what looks like primer and there is no rust,what do they use?Steve..

They generally e-dip the shells before painting. It is similar to galvanization by giving it all a thin layer of zinc before painting. 

[Avionyx]

I've used Raptor (and similar) coatings on Land Rover's and it looks and works fantastic. Very hardy and if you want a textured surface then it works very well.

Not sure I'd use it on a mini though unless it was on a pickup bed or to protect a sump guard etc. Probably a little bit industrial in it's look and properties.

[KTS]

I got Ben to do the underside of my pickup with raptor as part of the restoration work - personally, i'm OK with the textured finish  (it's not intended to be a concours car), but i am quite pleased we chose not to coat the sills

 

 

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