16 replies to this topic

[Henrique Conceição]

I have just bought an old Mini1275 GT. It is old because is from 1972 but is almost brand new as it is in a great condition with less than 30.000 miles.
I know that the older owner changed the oil recently to a synthetic oil 10w40 but I think that oil is not the most suitable for such an old car. Anyone can help me? What oil is the most proper oil to use? Any advice on a specific brand?
Thank you so much for all. From Portugal, Henrique Conceição, a Mini lover since I was a child.

[surfblue]

A 20w50 oil is more suited to an old A series engine. I prefer Millers Mini sport oil which is formulated to suit the mini's combined engine and gearbox. Your GT sounds interesting post a few photos up!

[Maccmike8]

Only use 20 50.

[cal844]

I recommend Valvoline VR1 or the Millers equivalent. Always use 20w50 oil with a high ZDDP level and low detergent

Edited by cal844, 13 January 2021 - 12:24 PM.

[Richard e]

I have a 1985 998cc. The driver's handbook, which came with the car when new, says use BLS.22.OL.02, MIL-L-46152A or API SE or SF quality - matching viscosity to local temperature range. So for -10c to 40c, which is pretty much the UK temperature extremes, use 10W/30 or 10W/40. That said, my car has 20/50 in it, but in this recent cold weather it's too thick (crank speed is slow yet battery etc all okay). What do you think?

[PACINO]

I recommend Valvoline VR1 or the Millers equivalent. Always use 20w50 oil with a high ZDDP level and low detergent

+1

[Miki Leyland]

"Valvoline Vr1" or "Millers Classic Mini Oil"

[Cooperman]

I recommend Valvoline VR1 or the Millers equivalent. Always use 20w50 oil with a high ZDDP level and low detergent

+1 more.

[cal844]

I have a 1985 998cc. The driver's handbook, which came with the car when new, says use BLS.22.OL.02, MIL-L-46152A or API SE or SF quality - matching viscosity to local temperature range. So for -10c to 40c, which is pretty much the UK temperature extremes, use 10W/30 or 10W/40. That said, my car has 20/50 in it, but in this recent cold weather it's too thick (crank speed is slow yet battery etc all okay). What do you think?

I know that Rover changed the documentation to specify 10/40 instead of 20/50 purely as a cost cutting exercise.

You can clean and check all wiring connections to the starter, earth's etc as required.

What's the voltage drop on cranking? My 1980 and 1993 carb cars both fired up first turn of the key last week. Make sure the batteries are of decent size (I use 063 Yuasa brand batteries in my cars, these haven't let me down.

So personally I'd load check the battery (don't use Halfords) I use my local MOT testers machine whom is a good friend.


I also get him to order a fresh battery from his suppliers instead of one that's been on the shelf for months.

Hope this helps

[absx2]

I personally have used VR1 in my hard used engines for years, it was originally called Valvoline racing and came in a black container.

I also have gone through a fair amount of Minispares own 20w50 and more than a few times hammered my 998 up to 7000 rpm without any issues so it can`t be bad.

As I still use a mini as a daily driver and winter is here I do notice that the thicker oil does take a while to loosen up and I don`t always have the time to sit there for a while and wait for first gear to drop in without resistance so I'm considering chucking in some 10w/40 motorcycle oil just for the winter as I do a lot of short trips and according to this it`s the way to go

 

  https://www.widman.b...ic-mini-oil.pdf

 

Quite a long read but the guy seems to know his stuff ?

[cal844]

10w40 isn't the answer but it sure will find the leak points

[Cooperman]

I built an engine for a historic rally car and the owner did the Monte Carlo Historique.
As itgets so very cold in the French Alps in Winter I advised him to use a 5w40 oil. However, he admitted that he had used a 20w50.
After being parked all night at something like -10c he had to start it with the clutch pushed down. Due to the 286 cam, it had to be kept at over 3000 rpm whilst cold and having the clutch down with the pressure being slow to build, the crankshaft thrust bearings picked up and were wrecked.
The subsequent rebuild required +30 thou thrusts, ground down to suit the reground crank thrust faces.
It would have been a bit cheaper to have used thinner oil.

[Quinlan minor]

I built an engine for a historic rally car and the owner did the Monte Carlo Historique.
As itgets so very cold in the French Alps in Winter I advised him to use a 5w40 oil. However, he admitted that he had used a 20w50.
After being parked all night at something like -10c he had to start it with the clutch pushed down. Due to the 286 cam, it had to be kept at over 3000 rpm whilst cold and having the clutch down with the pressure being slow to build, the crankshaft thrust bearings picked up and were wrecked.
The subsequent rebuild required +30 thou thrusts, ground down to suit the reground crank thrust faces.
It would have been a bit cheaper to have used thinner oil.

Or to have put a sump heater underneath it.

 

[Mini Manannán]

Henrique, I'm not sure what you can find in Portugal but as said, you want a mineral oil of 20W50 or 20W60 with a high level of ZDDP (I use 20W60 Penrite Classic oil) but Valvoline VR1 is very popular here in the UK.  Minispares sell their own brand oil http://www.minispare...|Back to search at a good price

[Tds76]

Penrite also do a Mini specific oil which I've been using for the last few changes. 

https://www.penriteo...-20w-50-mineral