948 replies to this topic

[Viktor]

Cheers Stuart. Yes, it is very cold and not really inviting to be out there!

 

Now that I have both quarter panels in, I can remove the rear panel (up to the window opening), as I have all the reference points I need. I will cut it off next week, so I can tackle all the works in the boot more easily.

 

Victor.

[Viktor]

Tried to remove the rear panel today, but everything went wrong!  My spot welding drill bits were shot and then the new angle grinder (bought a couple of weeks ago) started to make weird noises and smoke coming from inside!  Went to B&Q and replace it for a new Black&Decker, hoping it will last longer.  I also ordered some new drill bits, which should be arriving tomorrow.

 

With all of the above, I only managed to clean the area around the rear window to show the spot welds. Tried to drill them out, but no go...

 

 

 

I also cleaned the area around the C-posts. There's a bit of rust on this side, but I think it is not too bad. I want to avoid buying the whole rear panel due to cost, so I guess this is fine?

 

 

 

The other side is okay, apart from a small hole in the inner side.

 

 

 

As I couldn't progress more with the rear panel, I decided to clean up one of the corners of the roof. This is the worse in the car, and has been repaired in the past.

 

 

 

That would need some work, but much much later...

 

Victor.

[colinf1]

Looks badly pitted on the passenger side, but it may be OK once you rust treat it.

Hopefully it's a better day all round tomorrow!

[Viktor]

Thanks Colin. What people use to treat that kind of rust? I heard many people aginst K-Rust, but that is what I have at hand.

 

Is there other product I can buy for that particular area?

 

Thanks.

 

P.S. Still waiting for Amazon to deliver the drill bits... ;(

[panky]

I've always had a problem with filler or paint over rust converters, they tend to lift off after a while exposing rust  that has eventually come back. Use De-ox gel to completely dissolve and remove any rust in pitted surfaces then fill and prime. It takes a while but well worth it.

[Viktor]

Cheers, thanks Panky. :)

[Viktor]

A few things done today, some photos of the progress:

 

I cut the rear panel off, as low as possible and keeping the central part in place until I get the new rear panel. This will keep the parcel shelf in place for now.

 

 

 

I noticed a small gap between the boot floor and the quarter panel. I guess this needs to be closed out with plug welding?

 

 

 

I prepared and welded in the battery nut.

 

 

 

 

 

Then I moved into the battery box itself. This one is from Magnun, and it doesn't fit very well as seen in the images below.

 

 

 

So a bit of adjustment was required. First I marked-up where it should be, so I can cut, fold and adjust.

 

 

 

First side adjusted and cut.

 

 

 

Then the other side.

 

 

And the last bit.

 

 

Now it sits perfectly in place.

 

 

 

I cut new holes for plug welding and applied zinc primer everywhere. Then, I run out of time, so I will be welding the battery box in position next week.

 

Have a good one!

 

Victor.

[colinf1]

It's amazing how bad of a fit that battery box is from Magnum! It wouldn't take an awful lot of effort to modify the tooling to correct this!

Had you already drilled the nut retainer for plug welding? I managed to fit the spot welder into the battery box opening.

I had the same gaps in the boot floor to arch, there was lots of seam sealer in this area originally, so that's the route I took.

Is the square nut in the nut holder?

[Viktor]

Cheers Colin. Yes, indeed the battery box is not great, but with a bit of effort now fits perfectly. I guess it won't be easy to modify the tooling, otherwise they have done it already?

 

The nut retainer was drilled, when I removed it from the old boot floor, so the only way I can do this was by plug welding.

 

For the gaps, wouldn't it be better to fill that gap with welding material? seam sealer is fine, I guess but the other option would be stronger?

 

Yes, I put the square nut inside the nut holder before welding. I actually used a bolt to fix it into position before welding. You might not see that in the latest photos, as I did that last but posted in different order...

 

Thanks for pointing it out though! ;)

 

Victor.

[colinf1]

Yeah just thought I'd ask as I couldn't see it in the photo!

[slidehammer]

I have used the M-Machine ones and they are a pretty good fit and cheaper than Heritage ones, just for future reference for anyone doing the same thing.

[stuart bowes]

huh another dead angle grinder, that's what stopped me at the end of last year. I had a B+D and now I'm giving Makita a go 

 

probably just excessive use I suppose, they're designed for cutting pieces which is short work but I was doing a lot of grinding / finishing / wire brushing, which is running for a long time, plus it was old, plus getting hot.. not really surprising I suppose

 

they don't last forever unfortunately 

[Viktor]

Battery box time!

 

I used the clamps and a few screws to fix it in position for plug welding.

 

 

Then all welded. This time I got good and flat welds, easy to grind down!

 

 

Grinded and painted.

 

 

 

Next the fuel tank bracket. I looked at the old pictures I have when I was stripping the car, and used that as reference.

 

 

 

Welded in place.

 

 

And grinded down & painted.

 

 

 

Then I fabricated the wiring tabs.

 

 

And spot welded them in place.

 

 

 

Next, I started preparing the boot floor to receive the rear valance.

 

 

Tried it on, but without the closing panels.

 

 

Then run out of time, so just painted around the battery box.

 

 

 

That was it for today. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the rear valance and closing panels all done. It should be quick, as I think it can be all done with the spot welder.  We'll see...

 

Victor.

Edited by Viktor, 04 February 2023 - 05:48 PM.

[colinf1]

I would hold off on welding the valance on, definitely get it offered up and get closing panels in the correct place, but I think it would be better to spot weld the rear panel and boot floor first as this is the main panel you want to be sure of being welded as strongly as possible.

Then you can spot weld the valance on, spot welding in between the rear panel to boot floor welds.

I'm just not confident that you would get as strong of a weld for the rear panel having to go through 3 layers...maybe Ben_O will throw his thoughts on it..

Good work with the battery box, did the magnum battery box come with small L shaped corner pieces for the underside corners of the battery box hole in the boot floor?

[Ben_O]

I would hold off on welding the valance on, definitely get it offered up and get closing panels in the correct place, but I think it would be better to spot weld the rear panel and boot floor first as this is the main panel you want to be sure of being welded as strongly as possible.

Then you can spot weld the valance on, spot welding in between the rear panel to boot floor welds.

I'm just not confident that you would get as strong of a weld for the rear panel having to go through 3 layers...maybe Ben_O will throw his thoughts on it..

Good work with the battery box, did the magnum battery box come with small L shaped corner pieces for the underside corners of the battery box hole in the boot floor?

i always spot weld the 3 skins together at the same time but I use an industrial spot welder which is up to that and I trust for the job 

 

I can't see why your spot welder wouldn't be capable so i would spot weld 3 pieces of steel together using the longest weld time available and then perform a peel test 

 

If the weld is not strong enough you can repeat each spot weld twice or even 3 times and try the peel test again

 

Cheers

Ben