948 replies to this topic

[Ben_O]

It looks as though you need to clamp the cross

Member ends to the floor and that should take up a fair amount of that gap as it comes down

Then you can try clamping the flanges in the ends which may pull it over the last few mm

it seems in the photos to just be laying in place which may be why it looks like it's not going to fit

 

I would try clamping it all firmly in place and see what you have before too much else and go from there

 

Cheers

Ben 

[Viktor]

Hi Ben, thanks for the feedback.

 

I clamped the cross member to the floor on the driver's side, and also clamped the passenger's side, so it doesn't move. However, the gap is still quite significant although it might have reduced by a couple of milimiters.

 

 

 

 

 

I'm proposing the following solution: To create an angle shelf that can be welded to the inner sill, which will be closing the gap underneath the cross member. Then, the cross member flanges can be folded on top of this angle, and the rest can be welded against the inner sill, and perhaps these flanges can be extended by 10mm to compensate the gap. Some photos of the proposal below.

 

 

 

 

This is how it will fit under the cross member.

 

 

 

 

I guess the most difficult part will be to put this angle shelf in the right position and weld it to the inner sill. Very small tolerance there, so it needs to be spot on!

 

 

Any thoughts on the above?

 

Thanks.

 

Victor.

Edited by Viktor, 26 December 2022 - 12:52 PM.

[panky]

I'd have thought cutting the cross member, moving it across to the inner sill and filling in the gap where it's cut would have been easier. If the join is under the seat edge then any imperfections would be less noticeable.

Edited by panky, 26 December 2022 - 02:15 PM.

[MacGyver]

A sliver added in the middle to make it a little longer is my thaught too.
You could cut it put it in place, tack the slice in place ten take it out and weld/finish it properly before welding it to the car?

Ben

[pete l]

Same here, cut the cross member in the middle under the handbrake and extend it there.

[gaspen]

Same here, cut the cross member in the middle under the handbrake and extend it there.

 

If you'd cut the crossmember in the middle the it won't fit to the tunnel...

 

I would cut it somewhere on the straight section near the sill or near the tunnel - out of the seat brackets area.

 

 wbzU8Oe.jpg   56.61K   1 downloads

[MacGyver]

Check the doors as Ben_O suggested and see if everything looks right, then you know it's as easy as making the crossmember longer somewhere along the flat bit if it fits the tunnel nicely.

Ben

Edited by MacGyver, 26 December 2022 - 04:10 PM.

[stuart bowes]

My first thought was as already stated cut it somewhere along the uniform straight section. Overlap a C section piece to the underneath / inside face. Tack in place to extend 8mm or as necessary. Test fit, adjust if necessary, when all good weld it both plug welded and along the seam if it makes you feel any better.. filler to finish safe in the knowledge its solid underneath (purely cosmetic)

Obviously be sure to avoid any parts where seat will mount just to keep things simple

Edited by stuart bowes, 26 December 2022 - 05:22 PM.

[Viktor]

Thanks all for the comments. It sounds sensible to cut the cross member as suggested, avoiding the seat brackets. Perhaps where Gaspen has indicated in the photo. It is just a shame to have tu cut a brand new panel, but I cannot see other way around it.

 

I believe my old cross member still has a few sections that are in good condition with no rust. I can cut a 30-40mm section from there and use it to extend the new panel. Put it underneath, take the exact dimension I need to extend, leave 10mm on each side and use the edge setter / joggler tool, to fold it and overlap the new with the old.

 

 

Then use the spot welder to join the extension piece to cross member and that should do the trick. 

 

I don't trust myself doing such a long weld, so if I can use the spot welder, I think that would be a better solution for me.

 

Unless anyone has something against that idea, I will give it a go tomorrow.

 

Thanks again everyone for your feedback. Much appreciated.

 

Victor.

[stuart bowes]

Ah yes if you have a joggler, even better :)

 

someone suggested on my thread a while back spot welds can be stronger that a seam weld anyway?  I don't have any knowledge or references to back that up.. 

 

personally I don't have a spot welder so I'd probably tack it in a few places just to check I'm happy with the fit, then plug weld it in while I can get clamps on it, then fit and weld the whole thing in place, and then go over the join again with the mig

 

I'm no expert but I'd be happier in the back of my mind knowing I'd done all I can to strengthen an important structural piece

 

I'd probably fold up a bit of fresh steel rather than using old stuff but I guess if you clean it right up and treat it, should be fine

Edited by stuart bowes, 27 December 2022 - 01:43 AM.

[sonscar]

I would cut it over the tunnel and then dress the tunnel from underneath to fit.Close the gap with a new patch.Dress the flanges at the ends to closely fit the floor.Steve..

[gaspen]

 

I don't trust myself doing such a long weld, so if I can use the spot welder, I think that would be a better solution for me.

 

 

 

Don't be kidding : you welded the floor panels pretty well, the cross member will be just a child's play.

 

Personally I trust more in seam welding, because it is easier to protcte from rust as you will have a continuous surface nad it is nicer

 

But it is your choice 

[gaspen]

another idea from me is to extend the cross member with a piece that fills the gap

 

maybe you can weld three pieces to the three flanges (~1-2 cm each), then flatten the existing corner, and re-bend them to fit the sill

 

It is a little bit more work, but you don't have to cut

 

 tBUOxkJ.jpg   71.99K   1 downloads

Edited by gaspen, 27 December 2022 - 07:44 AM.

[Viktor]

Thanks Stuart, Steve and Gaspen.

 

I think cutting the cross member and adding a flat section of around 10mm (plus the overlaps for spot welding) would be the best solution for me. Once done, I can also seam weld the joints to make it stronger and nitter.

 

Fingers crossed and wish me luck!

 

I will post an update later today.

 

Victor.

[Viktor]

another idea from me is to extend the cross member with a piece that fills the gap

 

maybe you can weld three pieces to the three flanges (~1-2 cm each), then flatten the existing corner, and re-bend them to fit the sill

 

It is a little bit more work, but you don't have to cut

 

tBUOxkJ.jpg

 

Hi Gaspen, that is an excellent drawing, thanks for it. I think this is going to be too complicated for me.

 

Just a thought, I think you were missing the blue bit I have added, which will be welded to the inner sill.

 

 

Cheers.

 

Victor.