948 replies to this topic

[Viktor]

Hi Victor,

 

I can understand it. 

I bought the MK3/4 floor knowing those differences (if only I started to learn welding before...) and not using it in the end. The floor is sitting quite sorry in the shed.

To tell the truth, the M-Machine floor is a later floor qhich has been modified backwards to Mk3 spec. I can see exactly those differences, that's why I told you also :)

 

Gilles

Thanks mate and I really appreciate your input. I'm totally new on this and learning my way as I go...

 

Shame you didn't use the floor panel, especially due to the high price tag. I got my floor panel from M-Machine, but this is a Genuine Heritage panel. I hope it fits nicely... Fingers crossed.

 

Victor.

[Viktor]

Ben restored a '69 Cooper some years ago, he also modified the new boot floor. You can also learn how to align the floor

 

https://www.theminif...of-wight/page-3

Hi Gaspen,

 

Many thanks mate, that link is really useful. Now I realized what everyone was talking about the boot floor being different for earlier cars. I don't think I will do all the mods Ben did on that project. That will require cutting big pieces, which I'm not comfortable with. I will fill the holes for the fog lights and the fuel pump, but the bump on the rear seat looks too much for me! I guess the seat once installed will cover that? I know the car will lose originality, but I don't trust my welding skills and I don't want to waste a 250 quid panel.

 

Thanks again. I will keep the link quite in hand as there's a lot of things similar on my car.

 

Cheers.

[Viktor]

That is a very nice package, even the dog looks impressed!

That's a pretty good price for all that!

Hi Colin,

 

Yes, I think I got a good deal. My dog Chunky is following this restoration very closely. I hope I can finish it before he gets too old!

[gaspen]

 

Ben restored a '69 Cooper some years ago, he also modified the new boot floor. You can also learn how to align the floor

 

https://www.theminif...of-wight/page-3

Hi Gaspen,

 

Many thanks mate, that link is really useful. Now I realized what everyone was talking about the boot floor being different for earlier cars. I don't think I will do all the mods Ben did on that project. That will require cutting big pieces, which I'm not comfortable with. I will fill the holes for the fog lights and the fuel pump, but the bump on the rear seat looks too much for me! I guess the seat once installed will cover that? I know the car will lose originality, but I don't trust my welding skills and I don't want to waste a 250 quid panel.

 

Thanks again. I will keep the link quite in hand as there's a lot of things similar on my car.

 

Cheers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I purchased the same boot floor to my '75 Mini and I did not modified that bump. I think nobody will say a bad word about it.  The rear seat will hide it and I drive my car from the front seat 

 

One advice for the fog light holes : do not weld them up ! If you keep them you will have a good access for the cavity protection into the corner of the rear valance after the paintwork 

 

 IMG_20200826_173754.jpg   66.11K   2 downloads

[Viktor]

That makes sense. One thing less to mess up with! 

 

Cheers.

[Viktor]

First day in the garage since the new panels arrived. I started 2 different tasks: 1) Fitting the new boot floor and closing panel. 2) Fitting a new A-Post stiffener on the passenger's side.

 

I will make 2 different posts for these tasks, as I have a few questions to ask.

 

Boot floor fits nicely in the car. I used nuts and bolts to fix it to the wheel arch stiffeners and the back lip.

 

 

 

 

I put some zinc primer in the area where the panel will be welded, but I'm still too far away from welding day...

 

 

I also tested the closing panel, where the rear subframe is mounted to see if it also fits.

 

 

There's a gap between the closing panel and the boot floor as seen on these photos. The panel should be aligned with the central tunnel, but there's quite a gap there

 

 

 

I noticed that the boot floor should be moved slightly up in the center of the rear seat. The green area is good enough, especially on the left. The red area is showing a big gap, which is basically what the closing panel is missing to fit it its place.

 

 

It can be seen even better on this picture:

 

 

Can I get some advice about how to better fit these two panels?  Which is the correct sequence, or should be both panels installed at the same time? I believe I also need to put the rear subframe in place, to ensure the best aligment. Is this correct?

 

Many thanks in advance.

 

Victor.

 

P.S. I will do the amendments to the boot floor before welding it in place.

Edited by Viktor, 15 January 2022 - 06:51 PM.

[sonscar]

I would start by giving all the existing flanges some dressing.Steve..

[Viktor]

The second task was to start installing a new A-Post stiffener and the door step. Some photos of the process:

 

This is the rusted A-post stiffener, quite damaged on the lower area.

 

 

I completed this area a few months back, but I didn't realize the stiffener was so damaged...

 

 

I removed the piece, but I took some dimensions and reference points before.

 

 

Spot the seven differences (Lol)

 

 

I used nut and bolts to fix the new stiffener and follow the profile of the inner wing and my reference points. I believe it is in the same position.

 

 

I also tested the step panel, to see how that fits...

 

 

Few questions now:

 

How I make sure the stiffener and step panel are in the right position? Should I bring the door in? How I do that if I'm using nuts and bolts to hold the pieces in place?

 

Any advice about how to do this would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

Victor.

[Viktor]

Posted 3 times! Sorry, I don't know how to delete my own posts...

Edited by Viktor, 15 January 2022 - 07:05 PM.

[Viktor]

Posted 3 times! Sorry.

Edited by Viktor, 15 January 2022 - 07:04 PM.

[colinf1]

You could use some self tappers to hold a post and step in place, then remove the bolts and offer door up so you put the hinge in the right fixing location, then support it at B post using tape and something to keep the panel gap correct.

Then you could look at the fit of the door panel against the rear quarter panel, make sure they run nicely together (not sure of it's a straight line or curved along these panels though) but that would let you check step location so there is nothing hitting.

[sonscar]

You may have been too enthusiastic.At this point I would bolt the door post to the door and fit the door taking every means needed to make sure it fits properly.At this juncture use whatever means needed to locate the door post in the correct position.Take baby steps until you are sure of the correct alignment.Enjoy,Steve..

[Ben_O]

Reference the rear bulkhead.

I bet you need to push it back slightly to close the gap to the seatbase.

Get inside the shell, place your hands in the centre of the bulkhead low down and push, if it closes up the gap, then that's the solution.

 

Had it before where they spring forwards.

 

As always, check your alignment before commiting.

 

As others have said, screw or tack weld the step and A post in place to free up the door hinge bolt holes and Try the door on.

You can weld weld step on when you are happy with the fit. Pay particular attention to the gap between the bottom of the door and the step. It must be even.

 

Ben

[gaspen]

Isn't it a good idea to put on the new door skin to the door frame first and align the door step wit the aid of the repaired door ?

Edited by gaspen, 16 January 2022 - 09:18 AM.

[sonscar]

You may incorrectly fit the new doorskin and then incorrectly align the rest of the panels.I would use the door as it is to align things first.Steve..