948 replies to this topic

[Viktor]

Hi Colin, thanks for your comment. Yes, I used a piece of aluminium behind the holes, but that didn't work very well. You are right about that area not being very visible, so it should be fine if I leave it as it is.

 

Today I went around the car, just to have a closer look at the boot floor. There are a few repairs required, along the wheel arches and even to the back seat floor. Looking at the amount of work that is still required there, and how long it took me to get the repair to the rear end done, it might be sensible to replace the whole thing. The repair panel cost me less than £20 (and lots of man hours), so I will be not losing much money if I decide to replace the whole floor. I think there is a project in this forum where someone replaced the whole floor (I think it was one of Ben's project), so I will have a look on that. Not sure if I need to add some bracing there before removing the old floor, so I will double check before cutting anything.

 

Order the panel from Bull Motif could be a good option, as the box will be quite large and therefore the shipping might be expensive. Also from Mini Spares I have the 7.5% discount, so it might be more or less the same...

 

Cheers.

 

Victor.

[Kevinmini]

Have you checked out my channel? I had to cut out a lot of rust in all the same areas and I have just finished the boot repair panel, give me a shout if you need any advice / help….. I messed up mine and started a fresh but I did use the repair panel 👍🏻

https://youtu.be/j3reY4BNcQ4

[Viktor]

Thanks Kevin, that is helpful. Unfortunately due to my lack of welding skills, I don't think adding other repair panels is the best solution for my project. I'm thinking on replacing the whole boot floor and have already seen another project on this forum where it has been done.

 

Victor.

[gaspen]

Replacing the boot floor is a logical (but not cheap) decision. You should practice plug welding now.

 

As far as I can see you cut all the mounting points (holes) for the rear subframe. Before you weld the floor in its place you have to adjust the new points to keep the subframe on the centerline of the body.

 

There is a guy here on TMF who build up a complete body from panels. I'll try to find his topic

[Viktor]

Hi Gaspen, thanks for the comment. I have already made my mind to change the whole boot floor, as I think it is the sensible solution to my skill set. Not the cheapest option, but in the long run I think it is going to be the best for my project.

 

Good point about the rear subframe. The idea is to do the floor closing panel (where the rear subframe mounts are), and the boot floor at the same time. That should ensure a perfect aligment...

 

Yes, if you can find that post and put it here that would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

Victor.

[Viktor]

New year, new strategy. I started to remove the boot floor and now I'm glad I made that decision. The join between the bulkhead and the boot floor was very rusty, so I think it was the right decision. It is going to put a lot of pressure on the project budget, but at the end of the day it is going to be better... (I think). Anyway, some photos of the progress so far:

 

I started cleaning up the join between the bulkhead and the seat, to reveal the spot welds. I also took measures for the boot floor and mark-up the correct position. The seat is quite rusty in some areas

 

 

 

More rust on the seat, but also along the join between the panels. This area is especially bad, due to the proximity to the battery box.

 

 

I added additional bracing to the seat support, to ensure it stays in position when cutting the floor.

 

 

I also added more bracing to the boot area, between the two wheel arch stiffeners.

 

 

 

I then drilled all the spot welds along the join between panels. Lots of rust coming out...

 

 

And then I started cutting the boot floor, taking special care not to cut the bulkhead. The spot welds on the companion bins will be removed later.

 

 

And after a bit of work the whole floor is out

 

 

 

 

I cleaned the bulkhead with the wire brush. There are a couple of areas where a bit of repair work is needed.

 

 

And then started to remove the rest of the boot floor around the wheel arches.

 

 

The spot welds were difficult to locate, but with a bit of patience I managed to almost clean this whole side. The other wheel arch stiffener is in good condition, which is good news!

 

 

And that was it for today. Tomorrow I'm back to work, so only weekends for the project  

 

Cheers.

 

Victor.

[Viktor]

This weekend I only managed a few hours on the project, to continue removing the old boot floor bits around the wheel arches. Some photos of the process.

 

I drilled the spot welds on the companion bin, and after a bit out work it came out, finally!

 

 

 

 

That is finally done, and I also did a bit of clean up in the area, to ensure a perfect fit for the new panel.

 

 

 

I also removed the paint on the wheel arch and a bit on the backside of the bulkhead. I thought it would be better to do it now, rather than once the new boot floor is in. It is good to see some solid metal from time to time. The lower part of the bulkhead is quite rusty though, especially near the battery box.

 

 

Then I moved to the other side, and repeated the same process.

 

 

I cleaned up all the rusty metal below the wheel arch stiffener.

 

 

And that is all done, including the bit along the companion bin.

 

 

I have already ordered the new boot floor panel, and I'm expecting it this coming week. Hopefully next weekend I will be able to try it on for the first time. Until then, you all have a good week.

 

Cheers.

 

Victor.

Edited by Viktor, 09 January 2022 - 07:29 PM.

[colinf1]

How is the wallet after buying that panel?? lol...

[Viktor]

How is the wallet after buying that panel?? lol...

Very thin and empty!   

[Viktor]

I received the new panels today, exciting times ahead!

 

 

I think I got a good deal from M-Machine after all. The boot floor (no battery box), 2 boot floor stiffener panels, the A-post stiffener and the floor closing panel altogether including delivery for just below £300. It is a lot of money, but I'm going to be busy for the next couple of months, so I can get my finances back on track! 

 

More updates this weekend.

 

Cheers.

 

Victor.

[Gilles1000]

Oh, nice fresh metal!

Just a side remark, if you did not knew, this is the later floor panel, there are some small differences if you want to keep originality:

one corner of the seat impress is towards the top, and the oval hole for the fuel lines does not exist on yours.

Ah and I think the nut for the battery strap is also different.

 

Good luck with the metal work,

Gilles

[Viktor]

Hi Gilles,

 

Yes, I was aware that this is a newer model, but the MK3 panel was even more expensive! I need to weld a panel to close the fuel pump hole and a couple of other adjustments, but I think it would be fine.

 

Cheers.

 

Victor.

[Gilles1000]

Hi Victor,

 

I can understand it. 

I bought the MK3/4 floor knowing those differences (if only I started to learn welding before...) and not using it in the end. The floor is sitting quite sorry in the shed.

To tell the truth, the M-Machine floor is a later floor qhich has been modified backwards to Mk3 spec. I can see exactly those differences, that's why I told you also :)

 

Gilles

[gaspen]

Ben restored a '69 Cooper some years ago, he also modified the new boot floor. You can also learn how to align the floor

 

https://www.theminif...of-wight/page-3

[colinf1]

That is a very nice package, even the dog looks impressed!

That's a pretty good price for all that!