24 replies to this topic

[ryanlogsdon]

Hi Everyone,

 

I got a spin-on oil filter kit, and I've come into a few problems.  I'm hoping you can help me piece the puzzle together.

 

Conversion kit: https://www.7ent.com...it-sevk010.html

 

I've been waiting for it to come back in stock, and finally, I was able to get my hands on it this week.

 

The first issue is that my original "Purolator" oilf filter head is sitting on some very long bolts from the engine.  So long, I don't actually know how to remove it because that vertical, blue bar isn't screwed on, it's welded in place. Ideas why it mounts so far from the engine body, and how I can remove the head without cutting the blue bar (and without lifting the engine out!)?

 

 

 

 

 

 

A related, future issue is how to tighten the spin-on filter head, but I think I'll 3D print some extenders.

 

 

 

Last problem, as I loosened the screw on the oil filter head, I bent the oil pipe.  I think these are the 2 parts I need to get to replace it, but could you please verify?  

 

Oil pipe: https://www.7ent.com...m2106-used.html

 

Oil pipe fitting: https://www.7ent.com...ad-tam2119.html

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank!

Ryan

 

 

[ryanlogsdon]

Also,  will there be any problems since I've drained the oil and I need to wait for parts in the mail?

[nicklouse]

Use the two nuts to unscrew the studs. 

[nicklouse]

You use shorter bolts to replace the studs. 

[GraemeC]

Remove or cut the studs.

use 3/8” UNC x 1” long bolts to secure the new filter head (it looks like you should’ve got these in the kit).

 

Letting the car sit with no oil in will not cause a problem 

Edited by GraemeC, 06 December 2020 - 10:29 PM.

[PACINO]

good photos and very well explained. The day you fit the new tube, bracket + filter ... when you have put the oil and start the engine, keep it idling for 10 minutes. Give it that time for the filter to fill and check the oil level in the dipstick. Once you see that the level is a little below the MAX, you are ready to move.

Cheers !

[nicklouse]

good photos and very well explained. The day you fit the new tube, bracket + filter ... when you have put the oil and start the engine, keep it idling for 10 minutes. Give it that time for the filter to fill and check the oil level in the dipstick. Once you see that the level is a little below the MAX, you are ready to move.

Cheers !

NO. You fill the filter before fitting. Then you can start the engine. Or take the plugs out and crank it over till you get pressure. 

[AndrewT]

Don't cut the studs as it will just make it harder to remove them. Use the 2 nut method to remove them as Nick says.

Also fill the new filter with oil before fitting it. If you don't then on start up the pump needs to fill the filter and while it's doing that it's not sending oil round the rest of the engine.

[Tds76]

The parts you linked to look correct. When I did mine I was able to re-use the threaded fitting so you may not need this. You will also need new copper washers for the banjo fitting. 

My kit came with two shorter studs, so I replaced the longer ones. I cannot remember if I did it with the filter head in place or afterwards but I did double-nut the studs to remove. Mine was a Ryco head so may be slightly different to yours. Removing the studs also makes cleaning up the mating surface easier. 

 

Cheers, Paul. 

[ryanlogsdon]

Hey guys, thank you all for the advice.

 

Could you fill me in on that trick to remove the long bolts? (double nut stud trick?)

[ryanlogsdon]

copper washers for the banjo fitting.

 

 

 

Thanks! I'll pick that up too

 

https://www.7ent.com...olt-3h0550.html

Edited by ryanlogsdon, 07 December 2020 - 03:48 AM.

[nicklouse]

Hey guys, thank you all for the advice.

Could you fill me in on that trick to remove the long bolts? (double nut stud trick?)

tighten them together so they lock on the stud then undo the “bolt” but with the spanner on the inner one, not the outer one as you can break the “lock”

A very common way to remove studs normally mentioned in most workshop manuals,

[ryanlogsdon]

 

Hey guys, thank you all for the advice.

Could you fill me in on that trick to remove the long bolts? (double nut stud trick?)

tighten them together so they lock on the stud then undo the “bolt” but with the spanner on the inner one, not the outer one as you can break the “lock”

A very common way to remove studs normally mentioned in most workshop manuals,

 

 

 

 

great trick!

[Maccmike8]

Do as Nick says, put 2 nuts on one stud then tighten them against each other. Then use the furthest away nut to urn the entire stud out.

[Spider]

The 'Double Nut' method of Stud removal is a very good one, I use it very often on just about all studs, perfect way to get them out or in with no damage at all.

 

However, and I have no answer as to why, but these particular long studs I've never had success removing them by this method. I may well have been the ham fisted guy on our lines fitting them in such a way, by all means, try the double nut method first. I think the factory also used a sealant on these threads as the holes do go through to the inside of the crankcase.

 

When I fit the studs in these holes and also those for the fuel pump, I do use a sealant on the threads, if for no other reason than insurance.