173 replies to this topic

[Spider]

It’s a nightmare trying to get all the fixing points for the seats to match up with the holes in the bodywork. I think I’m going to have to drill new holes in the seat frames and fill in the old ones.

 

Hey ?

You actually expected them to line up !

Heheheheheheheehe,,,,,,,, that'll keep me going for a while,,,,,, heheheheheheheehe,,,,,,,,,


I don't know why they bothered internally producing drawings and having jigs.


2 late Mokes I worked on not long ago and not far apart (by numbers) - one was 10 mm shorter on the driver's side than the Passengers and the other 25 mm shorter on the passengers than the drivers,,,,,

Precision,,,,,,,

[Martin108]

You’re not helping. I’d expected them to be reasonably close, but they are way out. And I’m slowly discovering just how not square a Moke is. 

Edited by Martin108, 21 March 2022 - 09:30 PM.

[Shaun78]

Hi Martin,I am trying to do the same thing,I think like you going to have to drill new holes in the frame and weld up the others I don't need,always something to get over with a moke,but will be worth it when it's done.

[Martin108]

I do like getting a delivery. Front suspension bits and pieces arrived from Somerford Mini. This will distract me from the rear seats. Chris I’ve taken your advice on the bump stops.

 

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[Martin108]

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[Halfpint]

Its all just so shiney  , and clean.

 

[Spider]

These are some of my favourite parts of re-assembly, all clean work and something quite satisfying at the end.

 

Nice work Martin

[Martin108]

The powder coating was a bit thick and wouldn’t let the washer in. A run with a file sorted that out. Starting to build the front suspension up.
 

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[Martin108]

Slow but steady progress.

 

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[Spider]

Nice 'clean hands' (well,,,, almost !) work there Martin, it's coming together !
 

The powder coating was a bit thick and wouldn’t let the washer in. A run with a file sorted that out. Starting to build the front suspension up.

 

 

When I've had to do things like this, I give them a lick of grease on assembly, just to stop any rust from occurring. There's probably other things that could be used too, but I have that close to hand and I've found it's quite effective. I do the same on all bolt threads, in particular, those going in to welded nuts.

 

Slow but steady progress.

 

 

Possibly not what you want to hear,,,,,, I don't know if you realised ? but the Bump Stop Platform on the Subframe has been smacked in. They are normally flat. For our off road Mokes, we reinforce that platform and put a brace behind them.
 

[Martin108]

Nice 'clean hands' (well,,,, almost !) work there Martin, it's coming together !
 

The powder coating was a bit thick and wouldn’t let the washer in. A run with a file sorted that out. Starting to build the front suspension up.

 

 

When I've had to do things like this, I give them a lick of grease on assembly, just to stop any rust from occurring. There's probably other things that could be used too, but I have that close to hand and I've found it's quite effective. I do the same on all bolt threads, in particular, those going in to welded nuts.

 

Slow but steady progress.

 

 

Possibly not what you want to hear,,,,,, I don't know if you realised ? but the Bump Stop Platform on the Subframe has been smacked in. They are normally flat. For our off road Mokes, we reinforce that platform and put a brace behind them.
 

Chris, everything is well greased.

 

I’m not sure what to say or do about the bump stop platform, I didn’t realise it was dented.

[Martin108]

 

Nice 'clean hands' (well,,,, almost !) work there Martin, it's coming together !
 

The powder coating was a bit thick and wouldn’t let the washer in. A run with a file sorted that out. Starting to build the front suspension up.

 

 

When I've had to do things like this, I give them a lick of grease on assembly, just to stop any rust from occurring. There's probably other things that could be used too, but I have that close to hand and I've found it's quite effective. I do the same on all bolt threads, in particular, those going in to welded nuts.

 

Slow but steady progress.

 

 

Possibly not what you want to hear,,,,,, I don't know if you realised ? but the Bump Stop Platform on the Subframe has been smacked in. They are normally flat. For our off road Mokes, we reinforce that platform and put a brace behind them.
 

Chris, everything is well greased.

 

I’m not sure what to say or do about the bump stop platform, I didn’t realise it was dented.

 

I don’t think I will ever be subjecting this Moke to the harsh conditions I’ve seen in your pictures. 

[Spider]

 

 

I’m not sure what to say or do about the bump stop platform, I didn’t realise it was dented.

 

 

I don’t think I will ever be subjecting this Moke to the harsh conditions I’ve seen in your pictures. 

 

 

You'll possibly get away with it. If when driving, you loose a Bump Stop, the Suspension can over travel and break the top ball joint, so be sure these are always in the best of condition. It can also cause the Hi-lo Bolt to bend and eventually break.

 

Here on Paul's Moke you can just see the Platform is pushed in;-

 

 

and the result,,,,,,
 

 

 

[Martin108]

Chris, how much travel will there be in the arm. Which bump stop would you fit:

 

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[Spider]

Hard to define how much travel this is or will be in the top arm, but, without a bump stop, it will go all the way to the subframe It will more or less stop against the subframe at very similar angles whether the platform is flat or pushed in as it will contact that outer part of the frame first.

 

In normal use, well, I'd suggest to expect it to have contact on the bump stops at various times. There's not a lot of travel in them and so it's inevitable regardless of where and how you drive.

For the off road Mokes, we run the Competition type of Bump Stops and there's no reason in the world why they can't be used for a normal road Moke or Mini. They are in fact the normal rear bump stop from an MGB (the mount is different though). It's deceptive but the stop Hydrolastic Bump Stop sits only about 2 mm lower / less than the Competition type does, so they will make contact pretty much at the same suspension angle / compression.