29 replies to this topic

[Minigman]

I keep reading that lock tabs are too soft these days, so I’m going to use a thread lock instead.

Is 243 ok for the crankshaft damper pulley bolt, cam nut and also the flywheel bolt? How is the torque setting affected and how long should it be left for a full cure?

[nicklouse]

Never changed the torque numbers when using thread lock.

[Dusky]

3 hours is ideal.
Change the torque depending on what you're tightening. There is a good list here. https://lotusmarques...orgotten-factor

[Tornado99]

Locktite is basically cyanoacrylite, ie instant/krazy glue. It sets fast once oxygen is depleted. This makes it pretty nice to use on fittings or flanged surfaces as it won't set until parts are assembled. Also any squish out to inside engine casings etc will just wash off and not clog passage ways like silicone sealants etc.
Do be aware they soften up from heating. Heat is used to remove the red type locktite fixed fastners. So using on critical fasteners that get very hot is not a great idea.

[Minigman]

Locktite is basically cyanoacrylite, ie instant/krazy glue. It sets fast once oxygen is depleted. This makes it pretty nice to use on fittings or flanged surfaces as it won't set until parts are assembled. Also any squish out to inside engine casings etc will just wash off and not clog passage ways like silicone sealants etc.
Do be aware they soften up from heating. Heat is used to remove the red type locktite fixed fastners. So using on critical fasteners that get very hot is not a great idea.

The 243 is the blue stuff. So hopefully useful to replace lock tabs

[Minigman]

3 hours is ideal.
Change the torque depending on what you're tightening. There is a good list here. https://lotusmarques...orgotten-factor

That’s an interesting read. Thanks Dusky.

[Spider]

I keep reading that lock tabs are too soft these days, so I’m going to use a thread lock instead.

Is 243 ok for the crankshaft damper pulley bolt, cam nut and also the flywheel bolt? How is the torque setting affected and how long should it be left for a full cure?

 

The 243 is what I've been using on those fasteners (and others) for the past 15+ years now.

 

I use the factory Torque numbers for all, except for the Damper and Flywheel Bolts. The Factory Number here for the Damper is 70 ft / lb, however, nearly always I found that was not enough, even when I using locktabs. Chatting with a few other locals, they have found the same. I Torque these up to 100 - 110 ft/lb and that does the trip. One of our local commercial shops does them to 125 ft/lb, I had my nose in one of Clive Trickey's books the other day (he was a well known racer in the 60's) and I note he was doing them to 150 ft/lb

 

I've found going to 110 ft/lb hasn't been an issue and in fact, solved one. I'm sure the reason this fastener tends to work loose is due to the normal Torsional Vibration at that end of the Crank, effectively working like a rattle gun.

 

The Flywheel Bolt I do to a minimum of 150 ft/lb. I've not had issues with the bolt itself coming loose here, but I've found the 115 ft/lb quoted by the factory very marginal to totally inadequate to stop fretting of the Flywheel on the Crank Taper. Looking at the issues many have removing their Verto Flywheels, it's apparent to me that's especially with that set up, 115 isn't nearly enough. IMO, the 'secret' to making Flywheel Removal painless is to get it on very tight in the first place, yes, that sounds back to front I know, but when they sit tight and not fret, they will come away clean and fairly easily, however, when they Fret, I think we've all seen many here have to take to the flywheel with an angle grinder to get them off and a few have had buggered crankshafts from fretting. Tight is right

 

[bpirie1000]

http://www.theminifo...gs-reformatted/

The above link may benofmuse for reference... torque values...

Yeilded boots are a head ache....

[Tornado99]

Why not use locktite as well as the tabbed washers for good measure.

Edited by Tornado99, 13 October 2020 - 04:45 PM.

[nicklouse]

Why not use locktite as well as the tabbed washers for good measure.

As the metal is too soft it will still deform. 

[Spider]

 

Why not use locktite as well as the tabbed washers for good measure.

As the metal is too soft it will still deform. 

 

 

Yeap, that's what I've found. They are too soft, you can torque them up, but they 'ooze' out from under the fastener. The tighter ones do it right away and others over a bit of time and use. When they do this, you've lost the tension / clamping that the fastener is supposed to give.

[Minigman]

So ditch the lock washer altogether and just loctite seems to be the way forward.

[Spider]

So ditch the lock washer altogether and just loctite seems to be the way forward.

 

That's what I've been doing, except for Ball Joints. You need the locktab here as part of the Shim Pack, however, for locking purposes, I don't rely on it, 243 again. I do being up one flat of the Locktab though as a 'tell-tale' so at a quick look, I can see right away if it's been on the move. Also, because of the large surface area these don't seem to ooze out like those in the engine and steering arms do, but I feel they are too soft for locking purposes.

[Minigman]

So would you also ditch the big end lock tabs? It’s a pre A+ 1098 with standard bolts.

Which other engine lock tabs are you referring to?

Edited by Minigman, 13 October 2020 - 10:33 PM.

[Spider]

So would you also ditch the big end lock tabs? It’s a pre A+ 1098 with standard bolts.

Which other engine lock tabs are you referring to?

 

Most definitely !!!

 

If it had any on the Main Cap Bolts, the Cam Sprocket, those in the Transfer Case, those in the Gearbox - all of them, every single one, except for those on the Ball Joints as noted above.