76 replies to this topic

[maystro]

 

Spider something is definitely  screwy with the numbers.  I saw on another forum where some guy had a A+ block and his numbers were 99H791 as well.  He mentioned about a A+ plus dizzy fitting also.  My 99H791 also has the same A+ dizzy and the dip stick tube doesn't have the extension.  

 

 

Spider it's the 99H791 block which I have now which intrigues me of its identity.   It's definitely a A plus block but has a A front face plate and A timing cover.   

 

Maybe there were some in the transition phase.  

 

Just another question, would a A block fit straight onto a A+ gearbox which I know I have?  

 

Sorry, now it looks like I'm using  a spoon to stir things up

 

Brad

[nicklouse]

Again there is no such thing as an A+ gearbox.

 

just about any gearbox and transfer housing will fit any A series engine. The only issue is with some very early cases and the 1275 engine as the rods can catch the case and some metal will need removing to sort this.

 

note the gearbox and transfer case need to use the same size idler gear bearing size unless you want to use a reducer to make things match.

[Spider]

 

Spider it's the 99H791 block which I have now which intrigues me of its identity.   It's definitely a A plus block but has a A front face plate and A timing cover.   

 

Maybe there were some in the transition phase.  

 

Just another question, would a A block fit straight onto a A+ gearbox which I know I have?  

 

Sorry, now it looks like I'm using  a spoon to stir things up

 

Brad

 

 

 

There was like everything on these cars, a transition phase with the A+ style Timing Cover and Front Engine Plate, but it actually occurred the other way to how you're thinking. They were first introduced on the 1275's in late 77 / early 88, almost 2 years before the A+ Block was introduced, I first noticed them on 998's around mid 79, on the A Blocks.

 

Yes, an A type Block will fit on the A+ type Gearbox, no issue, preferably, but not essentially, the Transfer Housing should suit the Gearbox, as between them, depending on the particular year, they had different Idler Gears.

 

Strictly speaking, Nick is correct in that there's no such thing as an A+ Gearbox, however generally, when they went to the bigger Idler Gear Bearings, most people refer to them as an A+ Gearbox as this all occurred around the same time as the A+ Engine, so if you say 'A+ Gearbox' most people know what you are referring to. The changes were evolutionary and started from memory around late 77 and there were many changes then over an almost 10 year period to about 1986. Even then, there were smaller changes up to the 90's.
 

[maystro]

Hi,
after changing my timing chain I found I had a leak from the timing cover gasket. Stupid me forgot to put gasket sealant on the cover although I did put a new gasket on.
Anyway after taking of the timing cover Again I noticed the oil thrower has new gouges out of it from the original picture. What could cause this? It looks like it's too close to the double chain.
Is there a different version for double chains?
Also it has a F on it. I'm guessing that faces outwards, am I right?

Thanks
Brad.

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[Bobbins]

I'm struggling looking at the photo wether the centre dome is up or down? It's like an optical illusion!

[maystro]

Its down mate so the flat outer part of the oil flinger is closer to the chain? Is this right?

[Spider]

Yes, you had it on the right way, but for some reason, it looks like the chain has been rubbing against it. They are a close fit, but do normally clear, I can't see why it would do this unless the boss on the front of the sprocket was short or it wasn't shimmed to get it flat with the Cam Sprocket, but we know you did that. Or maybe the chain links are too wide ?

[maystro]

Beats me Spider because I only ended up using 2 shims out of the 4 I bought to get the gogs perfectly aligned.   
Anyway I am over it of not being able to drive my Moke around so I assembled it all again with Permatex red rv gasket sealant because I couldn't find that sealant you recommended.  

 

I'm waiting 24 hours for sealant to cure to see how things go?

 

Thanks 

 

Brad

[maystro]

I'm getting pretty good at removing the radiator with top and bottom shrouds on using the jack up the motor trick oh and also your fork trick ?

[Spider]

Beats me Spider because I only ended up using 2 shims out of the 4 I bought to get the cogs perfectly aligned.  

Just to ask the question here, when you checked the alignment, did you put the nut on the Cam Sprocket and then gentle lever the sprocket outwards (towards the Radiator) ?

If it's been ground correctly, that's it's natural running position.

 

If that wasn't taken in to account when checking, it will  (should) thrust out and so will off-set the chain to an angle where it could do that to the slinger.

[maystro]

Spider when I put the cam sprocket on I had to use the nut to secure it to the end of the cam shaft because it was such a tight fit so it would have been hard up against the nut. It was the crankshaft sprocket which easily slid up and down the end of the crankshaft.

Anyway I'm mobile again with no leaks this time

But of course I do still have a tappety noise. Actually it sounds a bit like a exhaust leak when I developed a crack in my extractors, which I welded up about 10 years ago. Maybe jacking up the motor so many times may have cracked something?

I was thinking if I do take the timing cover off AGAIN about making up a washer with the crankshaft keyway cut out just to give some clearance between the chain. Only thing then I'm worried about the flinger being too close to the timing cover.

Anyway I'm mobile and leak free

[maystro]

Has anyone ever used a double row timing chain without the oil flinger?

[Spider]

 

 

Spider something is definitely  screwy with the numbers.  I saw on another forum where some guy had a A+ block and his numbers were 99H791 as well.  He mentioned about a A+ plus dizzy fitting also.  My 99H791 also has the same A+ dizzy and the dip stick tube doesn't have the extension.  

 

 

Spider it's the 99H791 block which I have now which intrigues me of its identity.   It's definitely a A plus block but has a A front face plate and A timing cover.   

 

Maybe there were some in the transition phase.  

 

Just another question, would a A block fit straight onto a A+ gearbox which I know I have?  

 

Sorry, now it looks like I'm using  a spoon to stir things up

 

Brad

 

 

OK,,,, finally found it all.

I can find no Australian reference to your 99H791 Number and I suspect in the A+ block it is a re-stamp or there's a small chance it was a private import (but I can't see it).

 

In 99H Engines, which were fully imported to Aust from the UK, the A types were 99H889AH and 99H889AJH. When the A+ was introduced out here it was a 99H905AJH and later a 99H905AJZ.

 

 

 

Has anyone ever used a double row timing chain without the oil flinger?

You can fit it up without the Slinger, as long as the Seal is a double lipped type and the cover is properly centered, it should be OK without.

[maystro]

Spider

You might be right about it being restamped since this motor I bought was totally modified, balanced and blue printed and the engine number looks pristine for a block which probably would have been decked.

OK I'm thinking of trying to reinstall the timing cover without the oil flinger. I have never had a oil leak from the crankshaft seal. Mmmm maybe because of the tight fitting oil flinger ?

One question can I dry run and test without installing the radiator and fluid. Just for like 30 seconds to see if nothing is fouling?

I'm going through a lot of good coolant lately.

[Spider]

I really can't  see that the slinger would really do that much, so I doubt you'll have an isssue.

 

 

One question can I dry run and test without installing the radiator and fluid. Just for like 30 seconds to see if nothing is fouling?

 

Yes !

Actually, any time I do any work on the engine that may result with a coolant leak or possible re-work, I only ever refill with clean tap water and run it for a week like that, then if I'm happy, drain, flush, then fill with coolant. If you have a copper / brass radiator, this short period of time won't hurt anything.