149 replies to this topic

[Ethel]

So where are we at now?

 

New GCL143 coil?

 

New Ignition module & lead?

 

New distributor cap & rotor arm?

 

You still need to run a new supply in place of the the original ballasted wiring. Your ignition will be trying to run at perhaps half the voltage when you're cranking the engine as it is. There's a chance you may discover a plain white wire tucked up under the loom wrapping tape arround the branch that contain the coil wiring (white/black & white/pink). If not you can probably run one from the fuse box - Is it the standard Lucas variety with 4 glass fuses?

 

The white/ black that's running in to the loom is to provide a connection to a rev counter. You should be able to find the other end behind your dash, if that's an easier alternative than fixing that broken connection, with what probably a bit of domestic earth flex.

 

You can find proper auto wiring online. Autosparks are particularly useful for stocking Mini connectors & wire colours as they also make looms, but there's Polevolt & Vehicle wiring products too, even Ebay. Also, "Wiredbywilson" on the forum, who I expect could knock you up a wire with properly crimped connectors.

 

To see if it is just the ballasted supply causing your woes you could run a wire from the solenoid battery post (where the brown wires connect) to the coil's +ve. Both have screw terminals, but don't leave the coil connected for longer than necessary. As it's a permanent live, breaking the connection will be the way to stop the engine anyway.

[Marc13]

Ok so I tried starting it up, and again I had to keep the key turned for a minute or so with half choke and foot on accelerator. Same as before, lots of coughing and wouldn't start. Eventually started (accelerator has to be pressed quite a bit) and continued coughing for a while, then revved more freely (didn't sound too bad). Ran it for about a minute....would idle at this point.

Took the plugs out and cleaned them....tried to start it again., this time with no choke. Wouldn't start (not even coughing), kept the key turned and tried pressing the accelerator further, now it did a proper back fire like a gun shot. I persevered for a little while longer with no choke and it just wouldn't have it, was making some horrible noises, big bang/knock under the drivers seat (presumably the exhaust) and shortly after I thought I saw a puff of smoke from the engine bay (bonnet was up so couldn't see clearly). Left it at this point, to wait for the Mrs to come home so she could look at the engine while I tried to start it.

So half an hour later we tried again. Wouldn't have it with no choke. Gave it some choke and it did a bit of coughing, then started to rev, but definitely sounded like it was missing, revs wouldn't increase despite pressing accelerator, went to back off the accelerator to see if it would idle, but it wouldn't, so blipped the accelerator to bring it back, still wouldn't rev properly (sounding like it was missing badly). Eased off the accelerator and it died.  Tried to start it again, it wouldn't, some horrible coughing, then the Mrs said there was a bang from the engine bay and some black smoke. 

See attached photo. The good lady said the smoke appeared to come from quite low down where the the thickest of the black pipes is (inside the red circle), or maybe from where the blue circle is.

 

I didn't and don't want to try it again, in fear of doing some serious damage.

 

It definitely got worse after the back fire incident (not saying this did anything) but, when it did start, it (sounded like it) was missing, then it wouldnt start and we had the smoke from the engine.

Edited by Marc13, 06 October 2020 - 07:53 PM.

[Marc13]

So where are we at now?

 

New GCL143 coil?

 

New Ignition module & lead?

 

New distributor cap & rotor arm?

 

You still need to run a new supply in place of the the original ballasted wiring. Your ignition will be trying to run at perhaps half the voltage when you're cranking the engine as it is. There's a chance you may discover a plain white wire tucked up under the loom wrapping tape arround the branch that contain the coil wiring (white/black & white/pink). If not you can probably run one from the fuse box - Is it the standard Lucas variety with 4 glass fuses?

 

The white/ black that's running in to the loom is to provide a connection to a rev counter. You should be able to find the other end behind your dash, if that's an easier alternative than fixing that broken connection, with what probably a bit of domestic earth flex.

 

You can find proper auto wiring online. Autosparks are particularly useful for stocking Mini connectors & wire colours as they also make looms, but there's Polevolt & Vehicle wiring products too, even Ebay. Also, "Wiredbywilson" on the forum, who I expect could knock you up a wire with properly crimped connectors.

 

To see if it is just the ballasted supply causing your woes you could run a wire from the solenoid battery post (where the brown wires connect) to the coil's +ve. Both have screw terminals, but don't leave the coil connected for longer than necessary. As it's a permanent live, breaking the connection will be the way to stop the engine anyway.

Hi, see my last post, but I'll give you a quick catch up.

New GCL143 coil? YES

 

New Ignition module & lead? YES

 

New distributor cap & rotor arm?  YES

 

NEW BPR6ES plugs

I've put a proper connector on the broken wire (rev counter). I need to properly digest what you are saying about the other wiring issues, as I have to admit I don't really have an understanding of the wiring side of things at all.

1) I guess you are saying that the wiring at the minute (well the ignition wiring at least) is for a ballasted ignition? 

2) But I have an unballasted ignition - so the wiring is not suitable?

3) Is there a wire (or wires) I have to remove, or disconnect then? And do I have to disconnect it at both ends?

4) What sort of wire do I have to replace it with....my understanding is that as well as having different coloured wires (I assume the colour doesn't change anything, it just points to what the wire is doing??), there are different amp wires, ranging from 4 amps, right up to 60 amps or more. What do I need....and is it just one wire?

[GraemeC]

Hmm... sounds very much like the timing is well out.

Can you post a photo that shows all the spark plugs and the distributor please, so we can check the plug wires are connected correctly.

 

and yes - it does look like your wiring is wrong.  Disconnect the pinkish wire from the coil and tape it up. Then run a new wire from the fusebox, from same terminal as an existing white wire, to the coil +ve terminal. In an ideal world you’d use white wire of 10-15 Amp rating.

[Marc13]

Hmm... sounds very much like the timing is well out.

Can you post a photo that shows all the spark plugs and the distributor please, so we can check the plug wires are connected correctly.

 

and yes - it does look like your wiring is wrong.  Disconnect the pinkish wire from the coil and tape it up. Then run a new wire from the fusebox, from same terminal as an existing white wire, to the coil +ve terminal. In an ideal world you’d use white wire of 10-15 Amp rating.

See what you can make out from these photos - the distributor is so close to the front of the engine, its impossible to get a photo 'head on' of the leads connecting to the distributor. I'll post another one tomorrow showing the leads connecting to the plugs. Could I have done something to affect the timing, by the things that I have replaced?

[GraemeC]

Can’t make out which lead goes where, and they’re before you fitted the new parts and started getting the back fire issue

[Ethel]

Let's remember this was a running car with an intermittent fault. It's not that likely to be timing or mixture.

 

Yes, you have incompatible ignition wiring, at least as far as I can tell. If that yellow/white wire connects to a pink/white wire that's original ballasted ignition wiring.

 

I was hoping for a picture of your fuse box to direct you better, but GraemeC has given you the solution - run a new supply off a white wire to the coil +ve.

 

Or, as I said earlier, some models had one wrapped up in the loom near where the pink/white emerges. Just as many have a wire for a rev counter even though they didn't have one fitted

[GraemeC]

Let's remember this was a running car with an intermittent fault. It's not that likely to be timing or mixture.

 

 

Could be timing if the leads are now in the wrong sequence, which is what I'm trying to establish

[Ethel]

It could misfire with just  poor ignition performance.

 

Firing order is 1-3-4-2, with 1 being nearest the radiator. Same order on the distributor cap, going anticlockwise (looking from the front). No 1 is usually top right - I'd sort the coil out with a proper supply before disturbing more stuff.

[Marc13]

Image attached of leads/plugs.

As a double check, i removed all of the leads and put them back on again (as 3 and 4 were so difficult to get on to the distributor cap!)

Started it up, with choke, a bit of coughing for a while, then came to life and revved, but stopped revving when given a lot of gas.

Turned it off after a minute or so....took the plugs out and cleaned them. Then started with no choke....a bit reluctant but it did and then revved nicely. Kept it running for 5 mins.

Tried a couple more times and starts and revs without choke (when warm).

Haven't done the wire thing yet - thats next on the list and will probably have to order the wire.

[Marc13]

Another slight problem I have is that all the coughing and banging that the engine was doing must have shaken a pipe and it was resting on the fan. Its now got a reasonable sized hole in it. Its the thinner pipe with the yellow circle around it in the attached photo. Is this an air hose/pipe? What does it do? Any could anyone please post a link for a suitable replacement?

[Marc13]

It could misfire with just poor ignition performance.

Firing order is 1-3-4-2, with 1 being nearest the radiator. Same order on the distributor cap, going anticlockwise (looking from the front). No 1 is usually top right - I'd sort the coil out with a proper supply before disturbing more stuff.

So looking at the distributor, it was in that order. 1 is top right, 2 is bottom right, 3 is top left and 4 is bottom left.
So there was definitely a dodgy connection as its certainly better than it was
Below is a photo of the fuse box....any comments on this and the wiring issue?

Edited by Marc13, 07 October 2020 - 11:39 AM.

[Ethel]

Do the coil supply as a priority. 

 

The hose is from a crankcase breather on the timing chain cover behind the  radiator fan. It's not that critical in itself, but it won't help if it's  detached or broken and leaking in air at the carb end. I'm more concerned by the bolt in to the inlet manifold under that hose, it would be to feed vacuum to the brake servo, but I can't make out from the photo if there's anything attached or if it's blocked off - either is fine, as long as it isn't sucking in air. A few turns of insulation tape will do for now -http://www.minispare...ck to catalogue

 

The fuse box terminal you want is top left where the shiny red wire is. That's not standard, so you'll have to find out if it's doing anything useful, or look at using a piggy back spade connector/splicing wire.... or get lucky and find an original shade on a white wire hiding in the loom, as I mentioned.

 

That's defo not a '71 Mini by the way.

[GraemeC]

OK - plug leads look and sound to be in the right order.

 

 

The pipe is a breather hose - just use 1/2" bore rubber hose to replace.  Available by the metre from your local motor factors, possibly even Halfords.

Or:

http://www.minispare...735.aspx?100115

 

 

Where does top the red wire on the fusebox go?  That is the terminal you want to use to provide the feed to the coil +ve terminal 

[Ethel]

Best to get fuel grade hose if you buy it by the metre.